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Toki board with cutting audio.

D

daeds

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Hello there everyone,
I've been looking for a Toki board and I have a pretty good deal but the guy says it cuts sound, it's like 5 seconds clear and then 5 seconds of noise,
As a beginner in this matter I ask all the more expert people here, could this be an easy fix or should I stay away from this one and look for another?
I imagine it is a bootleg because it has a daughter board on top and as far as I know the original one doesnt:
1755971827597.png

Thanks a lot in advance.
 
djsheep said:
If you don’t know how to fix it. Dont buy it.

Buy a working one.
Click to expand...
I like learning and sometimes I buy almost broken stuff to learn a bit more and try to repair it, just wanted to know if it's doable and easy to find the culprit or a bigger problem like a CPU or something like that. :) Been learning how to fix stuff for a while now but I'm new to all of these arcade boards and they are scary.
 
djsheep said:
Start by dumping all the EPROMs and checking against MAME. Then looking at the audio circuit.
Click to expand...
Hm, that's going to be hard without having proper tools for these boards I suppose, will try to check with some friends if they have the means for eprom dumping.
 
There is a fairly good chance that the custom HB-41 is failing and needs to be replaced:

https://jammarcade.net/seibu-hb-41-reproduction/

Some good places to start testing would be checking power going to the LA4460 audio amp on the board.

If you want to be doing board repair you really want a good microscope, soldering station, hot air station, and EEPROM burner and eraser at a minimum. Would also recommend a desoldering gun (or at least a desoldering pump).
 
CamoYoshi said:
There is a fairly good chance that the custom HB-41 is failing and needs to be replaced:

https://jammarcade.net/seibu-hb-41-reproduction/

Some good places to start testing would be checking power going to the LA4460 audio amp on the board.

If you want to be doing board repair you really want a good microscope, soldering station, hot air station, and EEPROM burner and eraser at a minimum. Would also recommend a desoldering gun (or at least a desoldering pump).
Click to expand...
Invaluable tips, thank you so much! It's hard to start repairing these fellas.
 
That PCB is a freaking clone, if I'm not mistaken. All components, can be bought off-the-shelf or at least that was the case 15 years ago. Now you need to go to China for refurbished stuff.

If it's only the sound, then I'd say that you can try, but you need basic knowledge and basic tools, like soldering station, flux, Eprom programmer and lots of time and patience. You can post your progress here and we can try to help, but get your tools first if you want to do this more often. If it's only one PCB, then let it go, you have to invest first on tools.

Cheers.
 
Darksoft said:
That PCB is a freaking clone, if I'm not mistaken. All components, can be bought off-the-shelf or at least that was the case 15 years ago. Now you need to go to China for refurbished stuff.

If it's only the sound, then I'd say that you can try, but you need basic knowledge and basic tools, like soldering station, flux, Eprom programmer and lots of time and patience. You can post your progress here and we can try to help, but get your tools first if you want to do this more often. If it's only one PCB, then let it go, you have to invest first on tools.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
Well, the guy with the other board basically told me he lost it, I have another one near me but this one has some lines going on some characters when moving:
1756398022278.png

Should I avoid this one aswell? The board is different but still a bootleg.
 
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