Street Fighter The Movie Conversion

Hey everyone!

I recently acquired a Street Fighter The Movie board that I was hoping to use for an event. However, whenever I plug it into my cab I get a boot loop. This can be after a few rounds, or right when I turn on the board. It seems to be intermittent, and looks like its caused from a crack in the motherboard on the Jamma edge. I can see that the previous owner attempted to fix this with solder, however I don't think this is a long term fix and the crack looks to be pretty bad. I have also tried with my soldering iron to fill some of the cracks, however the boot loop issue still persists.

Now, a few questions.
I've found that the motherboard for this is the same as Golden Tee 3D. Would I be able to purchase a Golden Tee 3D pcb and replace the sound and rom board onto that motherboard, and will it work without issue? or is there some desoldering I may need to do to get something like that working? I have also determined that the Sound and Rom boards look good, it seems the main issue that I can find on this PCB is power related due to the crack being around the ground pins. (Which is also why I think the boot loop is power related)
If this is not feasible, what are my other options? I assume I may need to properly repair the crack. I am not the most knowledgable on that subject but I have seen that it is a difficult process depending on how bad the crack is.

Thanks!

ZODIAK said:

Would I be able to purchase a Golden Tee 3D pcb and replace the sound and rom board onto that motherboard, and will it work without issue? or is there some desoldering I may need to do to get something like that working?

Click to expand...

yes but they made a lot of golden tee 3d revisions so you need the same p/n of the base motherboard (the one with the jamma edge). P/N 1064 REV 1. Don't buy one blind, make sure it's that part. There are two square security chips (XILINX XC7336 CPLD) in that board also, ITVR-1 and ITMP2-13 (or 15, my label is hard to read). I think you'd need to swap those over as well, if the board you buy has different ones. Finally you may need to add a kick harness if it's missing.

I should also add that if you're using a battery on the board, you can replace U50 with an FM1608 and throw away the battery, so you
never worry about a battery leaking.

boot looping though, first things first = check your 5v voltage under load, with a multimeter, at the jamma edge and make sure it's 5.0Xv

ekorz said:

yes but they made a lot of golden tee 3d revisions so you need the same p/n of the base motherboard (the one with the jamma edge). P/N 1064 REV 1. Don't buy one blind, make sure it's that part. There are two square security chips (XILINX XC7336 CPLD) in that board also, ITVR-1 and ITMP2-13 (or 15, my label is hard to read). I think you'd need to swap those over as well, if the board you buy has different ones. Finally you may need to add a kick harness if it's missing.

I should also add that if you're using a battery on the board, you can replace U50 with an FM1608 and throw away the battery, so you
never worry about a battery leaking.

boot looping though, first things first = check your 5v voltage under load, with a multimeter, at the jamma edge and make sure it's 5.0Xv

Click to expand...

I found this board while surfing the web, looks to have the same chips you mentioned as well as having the jamma edge. the only difference from this one and the cracked motherboard I have is that there are two additional chips on the right side near the ITVR-1 security chip. Curious if this motherboard is a good candidate? Ill pick it up today if so.
https://quarterarcade.com/products/golden-tee-3d-golf-circuit-board-works

Also regarding checking the 5V under load, do you have pictures of how I would do that for arcade boards off a jamma edge? Sorry if thats a dumb question, but I've been told that a few times for a different ask before, I have a multimeter but I have not been able to check voltages properly as I never seem to get any reading, I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

ZODIAK said:

Also regarding checking the 5V under load, do you have pictures of how I would do that for arcade boards off a jamma edge? Sorry if thats a dumb question, but I've been told that a few times for a different ask before, I have a multimeter but I have not been able to check voltages properly as I never seem to get any reading, I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

Click to expand...

To read the properly the 5V line (ekorz teached me too) . Set your multimeter on voltage and put the red (+) wire on pin 4 and (-) on pin 1 or 2 from the jamma edge and you will see exactly what voltage you have when the game is running . Or you can measure it without game too by measure the same spots in the cabinet jamma edge connector , only the psu of the cabinet to be powered (cab powered) .

Exemple here (without pcb inserted , but if you have pcb , put the probes on pin 1 or 2 and pin 4 when is inserted on the jamma edge connector) :

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/0w5bJWupMxQ?is=kBkp7R2fF1YS9_g3

ZODIAK said:

https://quarterarcade.com/products/golden-tee-3d-golf-circuit-board-works

Click to expand...

You'll have to ask him specifically if he has the right board, in the past he has used old photos especially for games he gets a lot of (like golden tee).

As for checking voltage, you don't learn enough really by plugging probes into an empty jamma harness like @AlxUnderBase is doing. If you do it like that and you see 5.00 then you will certainly be lower when you add the pcb as a load.

You need 5v being the voltage through the system when the pcb is connected. You can touch your multimeter probes to the pins jamma egde instead of on a chip like I do in this video. I usually do pins 1 and 4.

View: https://youtu.be/vkMZRKH0h-c

Hey @AlxUnderBase and @ekorz

Thanks for the help! I was able to read the voltages off my board and off the Jamma edge successfully, I got a reading of 5.08V off the Jamma Edge of the board and 5.15V off the Jamma Harness.

With this in mind, should I be lowering my voltages on the harness, and if I do would that theoretically solve the boot loop issue? I'm curious as I haven't had this issue on any other boards so far. What I also find curious about this whole situation is that the game will boot up fine, but once I try to play two player the whole board resets. I also had to mess around with the Jamma harness a bit as the board itself doesn't sit very well, it feels pretty loose in the harness which might also be why this boot loop issue is happening when I first plug in the board.

Thanks again for showing me videos and explaining what I need to look at!

ZODIAK said:

Hey @AlxUnderBase and @ekorz

Thanks for the help! I was able to read the voltages off my board and off the Jamma edge successfully, I got a reading of 5.08V off the Jamma Edge of the board and 5.15V off the Jamma Harness.

With this in mind, should I be lowering my voltages on the harness, and if I do would that theoretically solve the boot loop issue? I'm curious as I haven't had this issue on any other boards so far. What I also find curious about this whole situation is that the game will boot up fine, but once I try to play two player the whole board resets. I also had to mess around with the Jamma harness a bit as the board itself doesn't sit very well, it feels pretty loose in the harness which might also be why this boot loop issue is happening when I first plug in the board.

Thanks again for showing me videos and explaining what I need to look at!

Click to expand...

if you get 5.08 at the jamma edge when the pcb is connected, you're fine. You could lower it a tiny bit but it's within tolerance.

As for the tighness/etc causing the boot problems, it'd be easiest to try another cab/supergun to rule that out. A cracked jamma edge could be the issue like you thought! It's just always worth confirming your voltages, that's all. Another easy thing is usually to check the program roms but you'd need a programmer for that. If the program crashes at a certain point every time (like starting 2p) it's potentially corrupt program code. The chips are the 4 socketed ones on the gfx board (PROM0-PROM4)

Wanted to follow up and let you all know I've solved the issue!

So this board in particular seems to rely heavily on the battery. When I got the board from the seller it had an off brand 2032 battery. the battery did not sit in the board properly as it wasn't the correct size, and I noticed when I put my finger on the battery the whole board would reset. It stands to reason that this is most likely what was causing the boot issue.

I found out that the actual battery for the board is supposed to be a BR2325. After replacing this with the proper battery, the board now stays on, and hasn't reset on me since replacement.

I am most likely going to replace this whole battery in the future, but for now I'm just happy to get it working!

A side note as well, I did end up getting a spare board from a Golden Tee 3D. This did work correctly, however on that motherboard in particular I was getting graphical issues after the board was on for longer than 5 minutes. It wasn't enough to affect gameplay, but it was enough to bother me. I haven't figured out the issue with that board yet, but I just needed one working SF The Movie for now, so I will keep it as a spare if this board does end up having a larger power issue down the road.

Hope this can help someone else out in the future

@ekorz Do you have a link to where I can buy an FM1608 chip for this? Or is this something I would need to program myself? I really need to get a chip programmer one of these days

ZODIAK said:

@ekorz Do you have a link to where I can buy an FM1608 chip for this? Or is this something I would need to program myself? I really need to get a chip programmer one of these days

Click to expand...

you just drop it in, there's nothing to program*

I don't have any links offhand, sorry. I usually look parts up on digikey or mouser, but these are probably obsolete so you'll probably find them on ebay or aliexpress. You could also post here on a WTB thread and maybe someone local has some.

*if you buy from ebay/aliexpress then a programmer would help you test that they are legit and functional

ekorz said:

you just drop it in, there's nothing to program*

I don't have any links offhand, sorry. I usually look parts up on digikey or mouser, but these are probably obsolete so you'll probably find them on ebay or aliexpress. You could also post here on a WTB thread and maybe someone local has some.

*if you buy from ebay/aliexpress then a programmer would help you test that they are legit and functional

Click to expand...

For sure, thanks! I'll be on the lookout for one then.