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Gotta love the LCD television power supplies to try to power arcade boards. *chef's kiss*

NO! MORE! HANGING! WIRES!

Based on @mugen's post here: I never thought of using the +5v output for testing voltage, I always used the solder joins of the +5v inputs. So, I decided to make something fairly cheap and easy and the result is a cute little voltmeter! While this was fairly inexpensive to make, I would...

This has been on my mind for a very long time. Without modifying an existing Model2b/c ROM board, I wanted something which would allow me to use my custom Sonic the Fighters program ROMs in a quick manner. I wanted ZIF adapters to easily remove and replace the program ROMs without risk of...

Lol, that's the one listed in the first post of this thread. Glad it works for you, I hope the proxy+shipping wasn't too bad. I actually dabbled in making an 24-pin ATX cable for @AkedoJune with good results: You should test the voltage at the board as not every ATX will produce the 5v...

So the metal cage, with lid, is supposed to connect to "shield", not ground. It acts as a faraday cage to protect the model2 from electromagnetic interference, sometimes caused in arcades with older games. I've been told by Ken that the cage should be connected to the metal of the power supply...

Why mess with perfection? :D

I know I haven't put the rest up for sale yet, but I wanted to give a "sneak peak" at the next, better revision. I'm sure some of you will be able to tell where this is going just by this image alone! :thumbsup:

Truly this is "I know what I have" in the literal sense, an actual grail.

DING DING DING! WE HAVE A WINNER! I hooked it to pin 14 in the schematic when it should have been pin 13! Thank you! :thumbsup:

I tried, and failed, lol. Does not work. I am sorry.

That's actually how I do plan on testing it, but it's not how I envisioned the design. Also, after installing the pots, calibrating them was a really, really painful process. I've decided to skip the pots entirely in the next design and just have footprints for metal film resistors. It seems...

As I soon realized, this adapter I was making will put too much stress on the filter board's connector. I am revising the design and will incorporate the ferrite ring used by Sega for specific looms. I will still test this adapter, however, as if this combo of pots and caps do not work, I will...

I honestly believe if all that is absolutely required (including the overkill of shielding your supergun in foil) there is something introducing so much noise in your setup somewhere. I own a JAMMA adapter from the same maker, and experienced none of these issues, even on the worst considered...

I am very happy to hear you took my advice with the adapter! I am making a model special connector that will have the specs you have listed above if you are interested. It would take less space! EDIT: Wait, in your photo you have 470uF and 475ohm resistors on the breadboard. The RGB lines...

The listing doesn't show all the wire splices :vomit: Looking for another, non cut-up harness...

Hmmm, I wonder if the supergun is unintentionally causing this somehow. I don't really have any suggestions to bypass the supergun for video though without something custom. Edit: Wait, you should be able to wire the Model2 directly to the OSSC I think. Would you be willing to to give this...

Oh no, don't put it on a metal rack, it just looked like it was on one in the photo you posted. What's it running on with the JAMMA side? A supergun?

Ah okay, just making sure. I want to say I sometimes see these lines on my m2b board but I am not 100% sure what the cause is. I recognize that JAMMA adapter and it's a good one so it can't be that. Is the cage sitting on a metal rack? I know you can tie the PSU's earth pin (if it has one) to a...

I am working on a solution, hopefully sooner rather than later, to avoid using a supergun entirely. My testbench doesn't use one and just passes everything directly to adapters.