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Has anyone that picked up these AWSDs figured out what keys they use? It seems like they're not the normal LY-1153 used on Egrets and Vewlixes. I'm about to just drill them out but I hate wasting otherwise good locks.

3129A is the chassis that's compatible with the MS9 yoke/tube. 3129D is the chassis in AWSD cabinets.

Thanks, I see there's plenty of access for the front door and coin door. I don't suppose there's any tricks to open the control panel non destructively too? FWIW I ordered a set of tubular lock picks too, I'll post results when they get here if I can't come across a key.

I'm looking for a set of keys to buy or borrow for an AWSD. I assume the door and panel key are all the same but the coin bucket is probably a more unique cut. I would really prefer to not have to drill these out.

Also I should mention the 50mm ones are almost definitely too short. 100mm is too long but if you have a hole in the top of the foot like on later Vewlix models, it'll just poke through. 60mm-80mm is probably the correct length but I have not seen those for sale at places like Amazon.

They're M12 leg levelers. I used these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV7WFF6 I did have to cut them since they're pretty long.

I didn't print that one specifically but it's my design and I do offer to print them. https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/banapassport-replacement-extra-buttons-panel-for-namco-noir.26714/

I have an ms2931 in a New Astro City. I printed spacers to push it out as much as possible and live with the gap. I didn't put foam but it would be easy enough to do. I imagine putting a flat tube behind a curved bezel is probably easier to close up than dealing with mismatched curves...

The D9200 should support low 15khz and high res 30khz sources. If you're using a PC you might want to look into low res stuff like https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/windows-7-read-only-groovymame-image.13415/. The big issue with the D9200, imo, is that running in low res emits a really...

It looks like the list is moving again and I edit: almost missed my spot. 😌

That would be similar to using any other USB controls (like brook boards) with the multi, requiring remapping everything.

The Naomi test menu should be able to tell you if it detects an IO at all, so should the display on the Irkenlabs adapter. Check all your JVS (USB) cables. Make sure they're properly connected between the game, link board, and IO. Try bypassing the link board and go directly from the game to...

I'm pretty sure people with MS8s are having the most problems. Blast Cities are easily worked around by using the VGA input on the monitor. MS9s seem improved by removing the resistors.

Do these fit in the TRFightstick CPS3 case? (I don't know what they look like.)

I have the v4.1 multi. I want to use it on two linked cabinets. I've tried: Namco Noir JVS IOs. Doesn't work at all. Taito JVS IOs. Only the second node works. Sega Type 1 JVS IOs. Only the second node works. Taito Fast IO (the Jamma edge one). Only the primary one works. Is this just not...

Is there enough clearance if you desolder the connector and move it to the bottom (top) of the brook board? This does just seem like an oversight, maybe the connectors were in different spots on different revisions.

I don't think even a new Sega trackball is optimal honestly because it doesn't free spin very long.

The cut out around the coin slot could be perfected more but it's good enough.

The game seems to be 1:1 with the motion of your trackball. It has no momentum. You need a ball in better than tip top shape that free spins or else it's a test of endurance. I tried out different bearings and read up on what the Golden Tee people do, but I never really finished.

Can you compare the amplitude of the sync signal between V1, V2, and some standard hardware too? I had this problem with CPS3 on my MS8. Inline resistors mostly fixed it. There's also discussion about using a low pass filter. I linked to different things in this post...