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Hi all, I have a Metal Slug 2 complete kit for sale, tested and working. Please see photos for condition and exact item that will be received $400USD ONO including shipping worldwide. Payment via PayPal F&F

Board information for reference: - Board type: MVS 4 Slot (original type) - BIOS: Stock BIOS - Voltage: 4.87v measured with board running and all 4 slots populated - MVS multi: Latest firmware/menu

I completely agree but there are limited people who will do this kind of work. Even more limited people who will do it for others, and often those who want the work done don’t want to pay for it or can’t find anyone and will take the risk doing it themselves

This. SMD removal and soldering like this requires skills and equipment that a lot of people do not have. A $20 soldering iron with $2 solder from Aliexpress will not cut it here Enough people damaged their CPS2 multi kits just trying to solder the key writing wires, and this is about 5000...

I have recently been doing some repairs on some 4 slot boards and had a board where the multi had major sound issues on KoF98 and freezing/rebooting along with graphics glitches on Pulstar The board had a backup RAM fault and this has been replaced, but I also did a full recap while it was on...

Have you been able to diagnose it to top or bottom board specifically? I would look at the ZMC2 first if bottom board but I wouldn’t start working on anything until you know where your fault is

This. I think that pin is too far gone and even if it works on one game it may not make contact on another one It’s also going to be very fragile because it’s been bent around and when these pins snap in the female side connector - not a fun time

Ok so not an anti piracy/conversion tactic then Could it be that the self test crashed because of the larger RAM? Has anyone compared the self test routine to another 1000B game to see if they’re the same?

Was Pink Sweets one of/the last game released on the platform or an earlier one? If a later release, and close to the change to 1000D hardware - did they perhaps include a check for the correct amount of RAM on the board? As in it looks at the addressable space and if it’s larger than...

I found the best way to go with U5 was to hit it with hot air until the solder melted and then push down on the IC to make sure everything was making a connection

You could just reproduce the 1.5 case and it will fit right in A larger fan mount would be a nice change to the original

A moulded plastic case for the CPS1 multi in general would be awesome

Thank you sir, I don’t think we’re going to get much closer to 3.3v than that

You don’t - leave it plugged in the way it is now. Run the ribbon out of the round holes at the front of the case

Just to make sure there is no confusion because my wording wasn’t the best: the direction you have the LCD cable in the photo is correct Turn the cable around from there and route it to the front panel out through the holes used for the interlink

Great work on the installation! Glad it’s all up and running With the cable, have it so it’s coming straight out of the connector and there’s no fold on the top like in your photo and then route it to the front since it will be going the wrong way You will have more room for the fold to change...

You are correct that the earliest firmware will only play decrypted ROMs. The later firmware will play both encrypted and decrypted sets assuming you have the key writing wires in place If you put decrypted ROMs on there with no key writing wires and no reset wire soldered, the expected...

I think it’s time for a crossover. Delivering soba while walking a dog