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Iirc all boards on the early psikyo hardware that strikers 1945 and tengai are on have that timing. The later hardware that strikers ii and so on uses have other timings

That feels more like fear mongering. Don't get me wrong I think it's a dumb idea to shut out third party slicers, but a lot of the other speculation is just silly.

Im confused, are there some new filament limitations or what

kindof doubt that people do work on much smaller pitch than tsop48 which has 0.5mm pitch tbh. What modern ics have smaller pitch than that? Maybe some tqfp with extremely tight pitch has slightly tighter but dunno. Yeah its doable by skilled people but lets not exaggerate here either

Actually maybe its possible to get pixel clock by just looking at the DAC, and scoping when it latches color signals to outputs? Should be a pin for that probably. Have not looked at datasheet. That would make things fairly trivial.

I guess you can probe the digital color signals that goes into the DAC instead to not have to deal with analog signals though. That should make it easier to use cheaper tools

As an example from when I did this for old Psikyo boards: Dot clock 7.15905 MHz Total: 456 dots Visible: 320 dots Sync: 50 dots (~11% of 456) For looking at color value you need analog signal support. I dont think those cheap chinese ones are a good match for this. There probably are cheaper...

Ok, so this is my understanding of how you would measure this, but I am NOT an expert in this so feel free to fact check me. For a aproximately 15khz game, running at about 60hz you can assume that aproximately 250 horizontal lines (hsync pulses) will be generated per frame. Games will not run...

Yeah, I sold all my D boards but in my old pics my Akai Katana had a IS42S32400D-6TL http://cave.buffis.com/pcbs/ak.jpg

Not easily no.

At least not easily. There's additional signals routed to the program ROM (and RAM I think). Program ROM is twice size as on B, which needs one more address line. I think(?) that at least one of these are routed to the FPGA so not trivial to botch wire it. Basically the boards are very slightly...

That's just silly. People can do whatever they want with their hardware designs. Of course its nice when people open source projects, but you can't really go in with an expectation that it should be the norm.

No, what type of multiboy would i be if i sold my multis?!?

Received this one. Its a little bit thiccer both on handle and on the prying part than the wera but seems perfectly fine. At such low price I can 100% recommend it

If converting a regular Ibara to Kuro through JTAG only without soldering, then the character select music will be wrong. If soldering kuro sound roms on there, that wont be an issue. Should work fine.

Why would it not work?

Looks like they've reversed gerbers for both boards, since theres definitely changes compared to their D ones. Very cool :)

Sounds pretty cool

I dunno if I agree about that. Removing flash and soldering FPC cables to tsop48 footprint is definitely a lot more complex than the rom removal for a CPS2 multi. Pretty easy to fuck up if you don't know what you are doing. It can be done mostly safely, but unless you've done flash replacement...

If you want I can sell you a known working system10 motherboard for 20eur + shipping. Or throw in another 20eur (so 40eur+shipping total) and I will include a rom-board of a great game (gekitoride jong space) too! As mentioned, you can swap romboards between system10 motherboards freely.