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Any reason you went with polymer caps when the original had no-name 85C electrolytics? Or was it more of a "why not" situation? :)

I sent you a message.

I think this refers to the LED module you use and its pinout. Blue/Green/Cathode/Red vs Green/Blue/Cathode/Red pinout (part LED701)

The goal was to find out why 161-in-1 carts and some of the early AES carts have the wait cycle settings undefined and what the impact is of having them undefined.

Interesting. I have a few early AES games here (original, in the box with manuals) and they all have graphical glitches - yes - real AES carts. Upon closer inspection, I see that even SNK got wait cycles wrong. ROMWAIT, PWAIT0, PWAIT1 and PDTACK are all floating on the AES version of SENGOKU...

I prefer to fix the new thing than fix the old thing mentality. For example, not a fan of modifying SNES with dejitter fix for OSSC or RGB bypass for better RetroTink5X compatibility. And in this case, let's try and make the Vortex cart more "standards" compliant before doing surgery on the AES.

They should. But it's neat to also put it in it's own 3D printed shell, but costs a few hundred dollars! Here's a full build video along with price breakdown at the end: View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcP60-0NIEw

I have a friend who owns multiple Blast City cabs with the trisync monitors. I've never been a fan of 15khz on a 31khz CRT - it's too sharp for me; looks like an emulator or LCD sharp. :)

For the last 15 years, it's been mostly been used with my MAME setup where 15khz is the norm (JPAC, ArcadeVGA and then ATOM-15 firmware on ATI video card all running GroovyMAME) I never had a chance to try 24khz. :)

Here is the fix I want you to try on that AES cart. Let me know if this fixes the corrupt graphics for all the games. You'll need to scrape the solder mask to connect the wires or resistors to it. 220ohm is what real Neo Geo carts use.

In case it wasn't clear, all this work is done on the back of the PROG PCB. If there's no marking, you start counting from the left side going towards the right. On most carts, pins 30 and 31 should already be connected to one another but nothing else.

Here's how I modified a Vortex MVS cart for testing. I verified that this has no ill effect on running it on a real MVS board. I also verified that it works fine on AES using a Furrtek adapter. If you're modifying an AES cart, the modifications would look different. For AES cart, the correct...

I picked up a Neo Geo AES 3-6 from a friend that has the Hitachi CPU. This system is a mess with Vortex All-in-1. Graphical corruptions, illegal instructions tossed by some games, etc. Here's what I did to the cart: - B25 (ROMWAIT) -> 220ohm resistor -> B31 - B26 (PWAIT0) -> 220ohm resistor...

I'm not sure how your video is setup or what arcade machine you're using. Here's my setup; hope this helps you solve your issue. Arcade Machine is NAC with auto sync MS9-29A but I only use it in 15khz mode Naomi 2 is setup for 480p/31khz output UVC is setup to take the 480p signal from Naomi 2...

but are they pin compatible and same speed? Not sure. Is the CPU also the root cause of all the issues - still need to do some more testing. These are all assumptions at this point.

I don't think so. MVS CPUs are QFP (legs on all 4 sides) and surface mounted. AES are through hole 64 pin components that look like the BIOS.

I don't know how rewrite created his cart, never seen one in person so I can't comment on it. There's a few things I do to my cart that are beyond the original Vortex instructions from 2 years ago: - the new menu - replace all the capacitors with Japanese Nichicon ones - add extra soothing...

The type of glitches I'm trying to solve are not game specific. They should effect all games. The "Neo Geo" intro logo text should look corrupt. Graphics should look fine, but text almost unreadable. Tiny little glitches here and there (like a flicker line in a specific spot) also happens on...

If you are comfortable with desoldering/soldering ICs, then yes - it's a straight swap. No other components need to change. It's important to get a -12 CPU as the entire console is designed for the 12.5Mhz speed. I'm guessing a -10 will also work, but not 100% sure. Of course the best...

If anyone wants a fun exercise, take a look at https://www.mvs-scans.com/ Here's a couple of games I looked at: Real KOF2003 B25 (ROMWAIT) -> 220ohm resistor -> 5VDC B26 (PWAIT0) -> NEO-PVC pin 32 ?? B27 (PWAIT1) is connected to B28 (PDTACK) -> 220ohm resistor -> 5VDC ROM zone wait - full...