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I always use Fluke, you should get one for under 200 USD.

So tried on my Supergun, worked fine and did an update - all and plugged in the Windy, and guess what ..? Yes all worked perfect been on and playing for the last few hours with no issues. I think the debug option would be great, wouled be very useful.

The odd thing is it’s worked fine for a couple of months and been in and out of the Windy to do updates etc.. the wiring is fine, I have a 1 slot MVS in the cab that would be coining up if that was the issue. I have a supergun I can try it on later, will update. Will check for Chamma too. Thanks.

I have got the same issue, all worked fine but unplugged for a couple of weeks and now buttons don’t work and I can see on the expander display that I am getting phantom coin1 inputs every second or so, like it’s pulsing - my cab us a Windy 1. plan to do a new flash card for it and see if that...

Did you happen to make a list of caps for the Windy power supply? I need to do mine soon. Cheers 🍻

Which multi, I didn’t realised they saved the settings.

See post above from Nem, that has a link to the part.

I was using a Weller desoldering station yesterday, did a recap on a Toshiba monitor approx 50 caps without needing to unblock the nozzle or empty the glass solder tank. really nice bit if kit. https://grovesales.co.uk/weller-wr2000d-desolder-station/

You ain’t bovvered, that’s a shame will look a bit weird, swapping the fly back is 10 minutes work if you find the right part.

It’s not dangerous to put in a smaller fuse but as it’s rated lower it may blow, you need to get a 4 amp fuse.

Yes looks like a couple of strands broken, I would cut, strip and resolder.

Buttons and sticks are cheap and easy to get, screens and control panels not so much.

I would check a few to make sure you get one with the best screen, also the control panel is important to get one you like or expect to spend a £100 more on a reproduction. you buying from Mo? He’s a good guy. As above I would ask the guy to plug in the X3 so you test, I have a similar cab...

Thanks, what I want to do is try the Toshiba PB chassis with the Matsushita tube.

My Inductance meter arrived and I am reading on the 2 yoke coils. Looks pretty close to the Toshiba tube, so looks like I just need to change the heater resistor value on my Toshiba chassis..? Any idea which one? Matsushita M68JUA068X 6.9 Ohms 0.26 Ohms 12.8 mH 0.32 mH

Here is my resistor pic and L &R readings.

I think you are right, Gold and Brown look similar on a dusty chassis, I will post a pic later, Also have an inductance meter coming tomorrow will post the Yoke impedances. Thanks 😊

R532 is Brn-Grn-Brn-Brn, Which I make 150 Ohms, does that sound correct? After a 2nd look it is Brn-Grn-Gold-Gold = 1.5 Ohms.

That’s what I thought, I can measure the Yoke inductance - looks to be missing from this thread so could to get recorded. But heater voltages I understand are hard to measure…

Lee, It’s to soon to do that I think, I do have a MS9 chassis that came with the Matsushita but it’s currently dead. But I want to see how the Matsushita looks it may be no good but looks to be burn free. I suppose I could have a go at fixing the MS9 or send off for repair, I wonder who is best...