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Solution from riddledtv: cover pin 11/m with electrical tape on the PCB. Something on the PCB doesn’t like seeing the the voltage there. Works perfectly now!

Ok, some more stuff. Ive been running this with Tekken tag and Tekken 3. I tried a Tekken 2 board and it Works fine. So there might be a timing issue on system 12 vs 11 boards. I’m out of amplified stereo pcbs to try, but this is the only theory that seems to fit.

Did a bit more investigation. Pulled out the setup and put it on the test bench. The cab in question is a Namco Soul Edge cab, which has pots inline to the speakers, so i wanted to sanity check it. So out of the cab I wired a spare speaker to the right channel directly off of the kick and both...

I'm happy for those who have their multis! Would be interested in reaction/review postings here.

This is what I’ve come up with. I’m having an odd issue where there’s no sound on startup. If I pull the right speaker output and turn it on I have left channel only. If I reconnect the right channel while powered it works in stereo. If I turn it off and on again it’s back to no audio. Any ideas?

This was what I was looking for; the manual made me think that there was something there. Thank you!

I'm considering using a riddled TV switcher to put Tekken 2, 3 & tag into my Namco cabinet. The cab uses the onboard amplified audio, using the left channel from Jamma pin 10 and the right channel from the kick harness pin 1. The switcher works by using Jamma pin 10 for audio left and 11 for...

Original condition

***traded locally For a PC-10 dedicated*** A few months ago I picked up 2 rather rare MVS cabs. The woodgrain 19" cab is an oddity of the SNK MVS line up. Directed towards the Bar/Lounge/Waiting room market, it's woodgrain vinyl look is a bit of a throwback to 80s cabaret cabs. The idea is...

So yes, they were once connected to ground. Most of the time they just cut the traces. You can sand off some of the solder mask and bridge to ground again, or use a bodge wire and just connect it to ground wherever.

See here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/what-donor-board-to-use-for-the-cps1-multi.13106/page-7#post-299448

@Darksoft be making room for all them stacks of cps1 multi cash ;)

Since this is basically a genesis with a jamma edge, I wonder if it's possible to swap roms to change games? Maybe even figure out a way to get a everdrive on it? Lol, at that point, probably easier to get a JAMMAtizer genesis.

Jury’s out on the chinesium audio mod. There’s a lot of components that are missing or subbed. You’d have to replace a lot. That being said the of the two boards I’ve had in my possession 1 came with issues, the other seems to be fine.

I humbly suggest a solution for the FPGA vs Original Q-Sound chip. Perhaps those who really care contact their respective retailer. They can check the package and make sure those who really want one get one vs everyone else who doesn't care? I know it adds complexity, just thinking this...

Do we have instructions yet?

Check the known weak solder joints. A lot of the resistors listed below tend to overheat their pads and become weak. It happens a lot when someone pulls the chassis to re-cap, but doesn't check the common weak points. They pop it back in and have a dead chassis. It's happened me. Also check...

So awesome! Such a interesting cab!

The switcher by Frank_fjs did that attract mode scroll, I would totally buy any switcher that did that. Otherwise I’m good with the rotary switch