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I've got one, brand new never used. I'm not sure what shipping to Dubai would cost, but if you're interested shoot me a PM.

If you wanted the best possible experience I'd recommend going the FastI/O route. You'll get the full benefit of running these games on their native hardware while ensuring your input delay is at an absolute minimum. In order to run the games outside of a loader you'll need the internal JVS...

So I'm a little confused, if you're wanting to set all this up to use with a Xbox360 controller, why not just play the games on a regular computer? Using a USB -> JVS adapter or USB decoder on a super gun is likely going to add input delay for the sake of running on "real arcade hardware".

Yep, on the multi menu go into the settings and turn ON game patches. It removes the nesica offline nag messages / icons from most of the games and also unlocks extra features where applicable.

The DIPs on the FastI/O shouldnt have anything to do with it. Have you tried clearing the USF4 folder on the D drive?

I think I looked into an issue with USF4 not saving settings, IIRC I think you need to exit the game back to the menu and wait a few seconds before turning off the system for it to save.

Can we be friends? Good luck, you shouldnt have much trouble finding one i'd imagine :)

There is something about being able to “coin up” and play the exact games the exact way they were meant to be played in Japan. Most games made over the past 15yrs had better, more feature rich home console releases. It’s probably part of the reason the arcades have been in decline.

I have not seen these but the Chinese have really been innovating lately.

I've seen the chewlix plastics for sale, I always wondered if they where interchangeable.

You’ll have better luck with UPS or FedEx. Also interested if another shipping company is more reasonable and the others fall through.

You should be able to change in the device properties of the device manager in windows. Your's wont be a multiport board, but the same steps should apply. https://www.moxa.com/en/support/product-support/product-faq/how-do-i-change-the-default-com-port-setting-for-multiport-serial-boards

Make sure your using a straight through ethernet cable. Also can you show a pic of where the ethernet cable is plugged into the X3?

Yep, just make sure you're specify the correct COM port. For maximum compatibility you can change it to COM2.

Looking to Buy, Borrow, or Rent a CRT Rejuvenator, Especially interested if you have one with a CR-23 adapter. I only really need it for one tube so not interested in paying $300+

Nope, but haven't really been trying either. lol

Sorry to hear that, the board should still be fine as long as the pads are still in place. Here is my method Once the old IC is removed, use some flux and desoldering braid to remove excess solder from the pads. Clean the area with ISO and apply a fresh application of flux to the pads, line...

I've experimented with a few Toshiba consumer TVs, and they do not physically fit. Fuck a yoke swap and all that mess. If i found a tube that was a perfect fit I'd just RGB mode the chassis. It would be so much easier than trying to run an MS9.

Is this from an image I provided? It looks like a bad dump, but the image could of gotten corrupted when writing to the HDD/SSD.

I'd be willing to help!