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I’m still none the wiser ?(

What always stops me is that I feel like I'll use it for whatever the immediate need is and then it'll sit there gathering dust, (not that that has ever stopped me with anything else!). It would literally be used for printing brackets, mounts, etc. I don't really have any desire to print out...

That's the model I printed. In hindsight I should've spotted that my BNC connectors have one flattened edge so they're not entirely circular. I'll order a print of this one and see if it fits these BNC connectors better. I really should buy a 3D printer at some point...

I got my brackets back from the printers and the VGA/SCART one fits perfectly, I just had to nibble the SCART solder tails and plastic on the underside of the PCB slightly: Only thing I'm missing are the little push button caps and some thumbscrews would be nice to secure the card in the back...

So I definitely could hear the tune being played, not perfect as it’s not analogue audio but enough to give me the hint the YM2151 was good and getting fed data. If you have any other working board with a YM2151 on it, you could just try probing SO on that to make sure I’ve not been on the...

I had to do something similar to fix the audio on a Sega System 24 board: Broken audio on System 24 This also has a YM2151 but it's paired with a YM3012 (similar to the System 16b you mentioned). I used an audio probe on various parts of the circuit and I found I was getting something...

I've got a Super Real Mahjong PIV floating about in the aether somewhere that I grabbed on the off-chance it might be good multi fodder. I don't have it in my hands yet but from the photos it looks like it's marked STA-0001 so that would be the earlier board I guess?

I'll have to get one of these printed up, looks good! One LED should always be lit, depending on the state of the CSYNC/H+VSYNC switch. Just tested mine with no input signal present.

Thanks for the explanation, but I don’t think I’m using Free Play, unless it’s on by default? I haven’t touched the four dipswitches so they’re at their default positions. Like I said, if I manually remap the buttons then it works properly, (without touching any dipswitches), so it’s just a...

Maybe Molex 1292 and 1360 series? For the 9 and 12 pin varieties, respectively.

I tried changing the menu combo to Coin+Down instead and that didn't make any difference. If I go into the button remapping menu I can set them correctly, but am I right in assuming I shouldn't really have to do that, especially if I'm using standard supergun/JAMMA wiring, i.e. coin and start...

I've finally gotten my Mistercade set up but I've noticed something odd with all of the Cave titles I've tried so far in that the Coin & Start buttons don't seem to be mapped correctly. Currently I have the MiSTer menu combo set to Coin+Start and that works correctly but when I try and coin up...

I think 99% of us all have a Major Title 2 donor :D

Yeah, I knew the other thread existed, but I couldn't quite remember who started it. All I remembered was I had commented on it so I managed to find it that way. Totally. Just knowing the nomenclature for this stuff helps immensely with searching for it. Even sometimes just knowing the proper...

A similar effort has already been started here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/popular-connectors-and-their-arcade-uses-jst-molex-te-sanwa-hirose-etc.18337/

Parts shortage X( I have the majority of the components, just need to tweak the design to use what's currently available.

If you change your mind about selling as a whole, I'd be interested in the MV-1B and System GX bits.