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Since I was brought up here. I have a good many vewlix in stock right now in South Carolina if you need any let me know. I dont deal in chinese bootleg clone cabs so these are all used and original. Most all have Fast IO boards, some have versus boards, and some have JVS PSU's. Vewlix L...

Do you have a photo of the equipment you can dm or post here.. im tempted however I already have a setup at home but its getting kinda old and used now and its all chinese stuff thats well served its price and beyond.

yeah just solder the wires directly to the terminal. I mean its nice to have quick connects but realistically HOW often are you needing to undo those speakers and would you want to rip that all apart all over if the quick connect some how falls off... thats why I solder them when ever I do the...

I dont if what I can see is anything Im pretty sure is nearly the same components as what the production Vol2 board uses including extra added traces for some of those wires going off to places. Furthermore if all it really is is a 12v dc to dc power supply then I can probably fashion a mod...

I have NNC's coming yes

OH! that is really interesting! I was wondering if that little IC was a DC regulator or something I just like I said had not bothered to look up the part number yet off my NCC Vol 2. Very interesting. I actually tried with a 470 35v cap by its self yesterday but it also made no real difference...

I really appreciate the feed back and input guys. Symphony I saw your blog post several times and I must have just glanced over the value for that cap apparently. I will definately go check!! So I did further testing today. The distortions I am seeing I am getting a better idea of the behavior...

Realistically im probably just going to go and reverse engineer what they added to the ND-1 rev B board and make that into a mod board its nice to get any feed back if anyone knows anything.

Note: This really only pretains to Classic Collection Volume 1 boards. I am noticing something that I have not seen documented anywhere about the ND-1 ND1 system boards. I am also not sure if it relates to this odd video distortion issue im having when game volume is turned up to 25 or 50 + %...

I got a few that are having their chassis's worked on if you cant wait. Their in good working condition otherwise. Or If your willing to wait I got some other blasts coming by the end of the year or early next year iirc.

Check the components in the horizontal block and maybe around the input. I have some random notes I left in one of my folders about the Makvisions MAYBE its helpful to you but idk. I dont normally share alot of notes because I barely take them to begin with sometimes LOL and I think I got most...

Its very possible. I had a Weiya M3129DB where the flyback arched out from the around the anode wire then jumped onto the metal clip to the ferrite core and then jumped off onto the top of a capacitor and blew the capacitor up. Look really closely around the flyback if you suspect it to be...

Even if the exterior plastic is cracked there is still insulating potting compound behind that. You can certainly throw something around the outside though maybe not a bad idea.

you have to have the deflection yoke wires connected to the chassis its critical to the operation of the circuits. Like nem said if the yoke is disconnected at all horizontal or vertical the chassis will shutdown or be damaged.

I find it unlikely the yoke would just die if the cable disconnected like that personally, no idea though. Something probably got taken out on the board when the horizontal winding disconnected. The horizontal winding on the deflection yoke is really critical for the operation of the horizontal...

Your tube number is original to that cabinet though as far as I know. So If you want to restore the cabinet back to a tri sync D29 monitor you need to find one of the Toshiba chassis's to pair with it. Otherwise you cant run 31khz signals into that monitor chassis you have now. If your using...

1K ohm checked and measured according to Sams Arcade Fix on youtube

the numbers here

Yeah thats no bueno thats not the stock chassis for for a New Net at all. If the tube is a flat tube though theres hope. Check the part number on the tube and if its still the original flat tube you can just source a D29 and put in the cabinet.

If its using a Pureflat chassis like factory (D29) it wont have dip switches to change that stuff it automatically finds the correct setting. The remote board on this cabinet seems different from a normal D29 though can you get a better photo of it? If this was a blast chassis (Ms2930/31) for...