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You need to adjust your keystone on your projector to correct that, it's caused by the angle at which your projector is aiming at the screen nothing you can do about it in this setup apart from using the adjustment. Well nothing short of buying an ultra short throw which is mounted perpendicular...

Point the remote at a mobile phone camera (or any camera for that matter) and then press whatever buttons you need to press, you'll see if the IR transmitter is working but obviously that won't tell you if its transmitting anything useful or not. A replacement remote is like AUD$5 shipped to...

Yeah that's the trade off unfortunately, I doubt you'll find working MVS boards in Aus for that price shipped

Are you linking to a specific auction? that links to all the search results for MV-1FZ can't see any $50 boards unless you mean USD$50? this one is AUD$77...

Any pictures of what you have exactly? Are you referring to the namco cyberlead wiring for controller ports as the 256 has no ports built in? https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?threads/256-ps2-controller-wiring.4205/

Probably cheaper from aliexpress, loads of options here https://www.aliexpress.com/af/led-strip.html?d=y&origin=n&SearchText=led+strip&catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20200606000931 even RGB if you're into that for brightness just rig up a PWM dimmer and adjust to how you want it, something like...

Do you own those boards? if so send Freddy an email with dimensions etc and he should be able to make you one. That's what I just had done for a couple of boards which weren't on the store (also sent my own artwork/logos to be etched).

It's just a bit of trial and error mate, once you sort of get it in position you'll get a feel for it and then adjust your zoom and keystone settings to suit

Thanks for the clarification, I couldnt remember if it was just TT2U or the arcade platform itself

Also worth noting i'm pretty sure there is a 'timelock' on the arcade hardware if not connected to Namco servers

Be careful when probing AC mains mate, all it takes is a slightly damaged leads to get a belt. Earth/ground and neutral and both connected in your switchboard (well assuming your wiring standards are the same as UK/AU) and yeah live to either or those should be 120VAC

Yeah on the link in the last paragraph it states the hot chassis can be safely grounded to earth with the use of an isolation transformer (as the neutral is no longer referenced to earth).

So are you planning on storing 'bare boards' i.e bubble wrap or anti static bags only? not sure if you've seen but alot of members on here store in anti static boxes with custom artwork

To clarify, you stick this stuff on the glass at the front nothing to do with the mirror

Did you look at the pictures above? see for yourself, the first pics are the dark grey film and the second ones are the 'dark' film. Not much in it tbh, dark will probably be preferable as it will leave the cab screen looking blacked out when not in use

If you cant get the arcade hardware to run on a 4:3 display what about trying the poor mans way and using a PS3 running TT2? I know it's not the same but at least you can configure the PS3 for 4:3 and have some alternate connection options.

samples were like $35 from the aliexpress link above, I wouldn't even bother with fabric now knowing this is an option unless of course I didnt have the pane of glass to stick it to

I see they also did MK2+ which some swear by and there is a MK+ under development?!

UMK+ looks great

? I'm still using the mirror cause I need the throw distance unless I go buy an ultra short throw projector which has its own mirror mounted on it. This is so I can get rid of the fresnel lens, the film just sticks to the rear of the glass. I don't really need it but was interested in how good...