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The whole point of these original audio systems is indeed to not bother the rest of the arcade room too much. The side effect is that they do end up sounding rather thin if you are only running the one machine at a time. A sub definitely has a place in that setting.

Definitely considering something like this now. The screen is amazing but it does deserve a sub..

Time to get back to the audio part. I assembled the custom TPA3110 class D amp. It actually sounds great!...But keeping up with the theme, Mr Wei Ya is unhappy :( I had put extra filtering on the class D amp but its clearly too noisy. Sound is 10/10, but all my games have snow-like...

Removing decals and prep for reproduction Before respraying a candy cab, it's important to make sure there are replacement stickers for everything you rip off. In the case of the Atomiswave SD, side art and control panel art are well available, but all the small decals are hard to come by...

Eventually Grant was a great help in getting it going, see here.

Oh my gosh, the monitor issue was a royal pain in the rear..... I must have spent 50 hours on this troubleshooting and even ended up in a crisis as I had put my step down transformer in the wrong setting (but only blew up the transformer itself in the end, phew). Even invested in new test gear...

Well, I tried the mid low to high range on the 15k pot, and it did not stop the relay shutdown situation. At least 31k still works do I did not make things worse yet..

Update.. been testing pretty much the whole circuit relating B+. Even got myself a decent LCR meter to check all the film caps. No defects so far. Now I found that the 15k B+ pot is actually 95% maxed out. That can't be right, right? Maybe someone has been here before me.. I did mark it...

Got this Atomiswave cab with the famous Wei-Ya M3129D click of death. I did a complete recap/reflow based on this sheet I made. The images on there are my board too. After the recap it still had the relay clicking, but I did notice it does work on medium and high res modes which I hadn't...

Developments and monitor frustrations.. Still trying to get 15KHz working on the Wei Ya monitor. Thought I had it when I found out the daughterboard relay measured 5 ohms terminal resistance. Put in a new relay but no cigar.. As for the developments. I happened to own a Japanese VA1...

I did read up on the deflection cap. Seems like the one I put in will probably not live much longer than the crap Wei Ya put in. But the special horizontal deflection rated caps don't exist anymore. I should probably look at some nice high frequency film. And whoops, methylated spirits is just...

I actually got both an untested 666a and c3129 chassis in my stash waiting for it one day. The cleaning spirits he recommends are not easily bought in the Netherlands though. Any idea of a substitute? That is great advice. I put in a UEP2A4R7MED. What issues would that end up giving?

Thanks for the input, guys. I will add the fan. If we really want 100%, I did also notice a random spark from the monitor at times. The wiki says to really clean the anode glass? Any tips? Thanks you. That deflection daughterboard already had my attention as it has the bipolar cap not yet...

Thanks. I am googling everything and learning to pray as we speak. I'm sorry for your loss ;) What do you mean by "setting the psu to 15khz"? Do you mean the impedance switch on the remote board? It unfortunately is a dual focus chassis. I've tried a Neo Geo and Pandora through jamma with both...

Thanks you, I am doing my best and agree this must have been a 9/10 condition cab before the cold storage and cat pee.. I did just build a quick CRT-emudriver setup to confirm the monitor works on 31K en 25K, but not on 15K. Strange.

So you want to recap a Wei-Ya M3129D, huh? Let this be a first warning. This marvel of tri-sync engineering is made from mostly analog circuits, which means the sheer amount of caps is nuts. I spent around 4 afternoons soldering and the thing is not even 100% working yet. To begin, I made...

81 euros worth of caps from Mouser came in, so let's get start with the PSU. The Wei-Ya P271 came with "quality" caps from the likes of Giant, TK and S. Replaced them all with good 105C Panasonic, Nichicon and Wima. Also resoldered everything while I was at it. It came right back to life...

Diagnosis time. You know, all in it does not look that bad. Just little bits of rust around the entire thing. Some missing stickers and bonus grime, but the CPO does not even need to be replaced really. I actually got this machine after a tip from a discord member who went to look but did...

Another day, another questionable purchase: a Sammy Atomiswave SD that spent a decade in a very damp shed. ...But it looks pretty nice right? Hmm that is a lot of rust at the bottom. Let's open it up. Crap... To be continued...

And with the final touches on the software, it is now done :) As a final step, I added more pics to the AO wiki!