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2 Vewlix DBs and 2 Astro Cities - cleaned and refreshed 🧼

TodoRojo

Grand Master
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
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Location
UT
Hey everyone, as you may have seen in my recent feedback for 310Imports I got some new cabs! 310 was doing was last container to Utah so I took advantage of the opportunity to get some cabs with much cheaper shipping costs to me. I basically just doubled what I already have: 2 Vewlix Diamond Blues and 2 Astro Cities. I really like these cabs so why not get more, right?

I took delivery on June 26 and a friend of mine got an aero city but they’re out of town atm, so I am storing that one in the back for them.
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I was pumped to see that the vewlixes both came with blue, 1P Taito panels! And they’re in awesome shape.
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I started with the vewlixes because they’re pretty dang easy to take apart and clean.
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Last time I did this it was winter so I did everything in my covered patio. It sucked. I’m grateful for good weather so I could clean these outside.

Like I did with the last ones I used a mild degreaser (method from target. Probably spent $70 total on that cleaner during all this 🫠). Let it soak for a bit, then hose down.

I made sure to really clean the bottom of the cabs with the degreaser and then alcohol so I knew they’d be clean while sitting on the carpet.
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During this process I found 350 yen in coins. So it’s already paying me back.

The process of cleaning these is pretty standard. Take prices apart, soak them in degreaser and cleaner, rinse off, reassemble. The worst parts are the plastics. They’re so brittle after years of sitting and likely being somewhat in the sun. It’s best to tread carefully with them.

I also cleaned all the harnesses. I usually do simple green, then a quick alcohol bath, then blow out all the connectors with air and hang dry for a couple of days.

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The monitors were in really good condition once I got the glass off and cleaned the dust out. These will be great until I swap them with 1440 monitors using @FrancoB’s mounts.

I made sure to clean the monitor PCBs and fans, too.
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Once one was wrapped up I started on the second one.
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This one was a bit more dusty than the last one… that fan wasn’t doing much as you can see.
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Same procedure here. Washed outside, cleaned it up: got the bottom and the casters real good.
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For the casters I actually used my drill with some sandpaper attached to it and sanded a layer off of them to get as much of the embedded gunk out. It works really well. Sorry I don’t have photos. You’ll just have to trust me.

A before and after of getting the dust out of the monitor. It’s like a new panel!
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Getting things back together
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And finally. The DBs are clean:
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Some things I glossed over are that I replaced the fans with some arctic fans that are super quiet and I’ll be getting some JST connectors soon to make them swappable without modifying the PC fan connector.

I also didn’t talk about restoring the control panels. That’s a messy ass job. For the metal I use 120 grit sandpaper and get all the deep scratches out as best I can, then move up all the way to 600 grit. Then I polish, and finally end with a metal cleaning sponge to put the brushed effect back in.

For the plastics on the control panel I used some medium cleaner polish and then letting up from there to get them to shine. I think on the control panels I spent a solid 5 hours doing this. It sucked.
 
Next, the Astros:

These I decided to do both at the same time. I was dumb and mixed up a couple parts on reassembly but it was fine in the end. I probably saved a bit of time doing it this way.

Both cabs had MS9-29s which I am really happy about and they’re really low burn. Ms8 chassis are getting to be so hard to find so having 9s is better for longevity imo.

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Also gave these a good bath just like the vewlixes. One thing to be aware of when washing an Astro like this though is if the paint is chipping anywhere, the moisture is absolutely going to get underneath the paint and make it worse. I didn’t really care because I’ll eventually repaint both of these anyway; however if you haven’t done this before and you’re looking at this thread for advice: there ya go.

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This time around I left the CRT braces on. They’re actually in decent shape so I didn’t feel a need to remove them. Maybe I will get all the metals re-plated like I did on my last one down the line, but for now they’re ok.

Post wash:
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One of my CRTs was super clean. I decided not to clean it or the chassis at all. This one, on the other hand, was caked in black grime. This one got a simple green bath and a hose. Then I blew everything out as best I could with the air compressor and sat it in the sun for a bit to really dry out.
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I have a bunch of horse stall mat laying around. Makes for a pretty good platform for these things.

I of course added grounded AC cables
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Washing these turned out to be a bit of a mistake, lol. We will revisit that later.
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Cleaned up the ejector buttons. Took the pin out of the back and then I put one end in the chuck of my drill and held sand paper against it. Takes like 5-10 minutes for a beautiful result.
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For the kick-plates or whatever the hell they’re called it’s similar to the vewlix control panels. But the nice thing is since there are so many right angles, you can just use a block sander and go to town. Started with 120, 220, 400, 600 and then the metal cleaning sponge with stainless steel cleaner again.

I didn’t get absolutely everything out but it looks so much better.

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All 3 of my other Astros use the black connectors on the harness. Luckily I had some spare AMP-UP connectors so I swapped the white-connector Astro to using the black. Now I can use the same PSUs in all my cabs which makes maintenance a lot easier. I don’t have to keep spares of two types of PSUs.

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I also drilled out the rivets of the cash boxes and cleaned inside them.

On all my cabs I like to replace all the cable ties.
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And here they are starting to take shape… but I accidentally attached the wrong back piece to the front piece. I should’ve realized when it was getting difficult to screw them together than something was up… whoops 😂
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So yeah.. getting them apart wasn’t fun. Make sure you have your tetanus booster when working on this stuff, lol.

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Back to the fluorescent lamp holders. When washing them down I accidentally tugged on one of the wires too hard and it came completely undone.

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To my surprise, what I thought were rivets holding the plastic pieces in are actually screws! Using some pliers I got the screws unscrewed and was able to gain access to the inside and re-solder the connections.

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Next up was re-capping the chassis and PSUs.
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This one was the one I washed. It was super easy. I actually don’t think this one had ever been recapped and if it has it was only a couple of them. Since I don’t do this often, it took me a while, but after a couple hours it was good to go.
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Whenever I do a chassis recap I always follow Mike Moffit’s calibration guide to get it dialed in. It’s not perfect of course, but it’s a fantastic starting point.

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Color came out great and just a small wave in the top left. I played with some convergence strips but I couldn’t really get it to a good place so I just left it for now.
 
One down!
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On this next one, I was taken aback by how clean the board was. I also noticed it had what looked like nichicon caps… sadly, they were knockoffs. And I soon found out why it was so clean… it’s seen some shit 😂
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So obviously this board must’ve had a serious cap leak. I will say the person that did the repair did a pretty decent job. I worked around it as best I could and got the caps replaced. There were a couple wrong caps in there though. For example, one of the 680uf caps had a 1000uf in its place. I did a bunch of searching and couldn’t find anyone else with that same phenomenon so I put the 680 in that came with the cap kit.
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I wrapped it all up and then started with B+ measurement. It was 76.5 or something, really. Not bad. I lowered it a bit and then powered it on and got a beautiful image.
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As I was adjusting the color, though, I started to notice some wiggles in the screen. Almost like the horizontal sync was off. But it’d go away when I was done adjusting. I assumed it was just the pots or possibly the remote board. So I swapped with the other one, but it was doing the same thing.

I continued with my adjustments and then all of a sudden:
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Womp womp. I was worried one of the caps I swapped was the issue, or maybe the pots were just really jacked up? Either way I was not happy. I undid everything and started with reflowing the pots and then tended to the bad area from the previous picture. I flooded the entire area with solder.
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Praise be: that was all it was.

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Finally. This cab being an earlier model didn’t have holes for the remote board. Thanks to a post by @nem I was able to print some spacers and drill some holes for M3 self-tapping screws into the control panel.

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So finally, they’re all cleaned! I had to order a couple JVS PCB plates (the metal PCB mount that goes in the control panel) and G harnesses. So those are on the way. I also just got a new fluorescent LED tube today from a company in NY that is a drop-in replacement for a missing lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094YW57YC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Aside from the locks, these are all pretty much done. I’m really happy to have these projects in a complete state. Can’t wait to make some memories.

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Great stuff man, they look fantastic there, looks like a lovely spot for them.

Glad to see you got the best colour/model Vewlix's too! :D I wonder if yours came from the same arcade as mine. Mine looked near identical on the inside. Luckily it all came off pretty easily. Just out of interest, what are the serial numbers of your Dia Blues if you don't mind me asking? I wonder if they are close to mine... Mine are 3365876 and 3365877
 
Great stuff man, they look fantastic there, looks like a lovely spot for them.

Glad to see you got the best colour/model Vewlix's too! :D I wonder if yours came from the same arcade as mine. Mine looked near identical on the inside. Luckily it all came off pretty easily. Just out of interest, what are the serial numbers of your Dia Blues if you don't mind me asking? I wonder if they are close to mine... Mine are 3365876 and 3365877
They’re 3364159 and 3364199! A little earlier it seems :-)
 
Hey @TodoRojo - Which Wattage of the Step-Down Transformer are you using, and how many cabinets are you running on it, if you don't mind my asking?
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I’m using this guy! 1600 watts max. From initial testing the Astros were about 340 watts when all on iirc. The vewlixes are about the same but I didnt have games running.

There should be plenty of room. The circuit is a 15 amp circuit though. I don’t know if I’m too comfortable pushing much more haha. I’ll probably pull from a different outlet on a different breaker if I ever add more.

120V to 100V Voltage Converter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L57MTF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
Surprised to hear the Astros with big old CRTs are drawing as much electricity as a more modern cabinet with an LCD.

Great job on the cleanup!
Thanks so much man. Yeah I was surprised, too! I thought they'd be way more power hungry but honestly they're not that bad, lol. I'm going to do a bit more testing today to see if that's the floor or ceiling.
 
I’m using this guy! 1600 watts max. From initial testing the Astros were about 340 watts when all on iirc. The vewlixes are about the same but I didnt have games running.

There should be plenty of room. The circuit is a 15 amp circuit though. I don’t know if I’m too comfortable pushing much more haha. I’ll probably pull from a different outlet on a different breaker if I ever add more.

120V to 100V Voltage Converter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L57MTF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks for that!!!
 
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