Blast City not powering on

[tDRG]

I just got my first cab, a Blast City, from GndZero, and nothing happened when I tried powering it up. I've turned both the switch on the back of the power supply and the one inside the control panel to on, and I have a bypass loop from Lemony connected to the PCB door shutoff. I connected my CPS3 to the Jamma connector on the JVS 001 loom, and connected CN8 on the Blast IO to the kick harness on the CPS3. I also have Lemony's JVS extensions with voltmeters connected to see voltage levels. I plugged the cab in and flipped both switches, but nothing happened. I don't see an LED on either side of the power supply, and the fans didn't turn on. No noise or lights from the monitor or marquee.

GndZero recapped it before shipping it out and verified that everything powered up afterwards. I assume I'm doing something wrong or something disconnected during transit. What are the first things I should check? I confirmed that the control panel was grounded before plugging it in by turning all the switches on and doing a continuity test between the panel and ground on the plug with my cheap Innova 3320 multimeter. I also tried powering it up with the CPS3 unplugged and didn't get anything. Could the little circuit protector switch above the power cable be an issue? I'm not sure which position is on. I attached a few pictures.

 

[Anselmo]

It definetly looks like the fuse holder that's broken above the power cable is an issue. if that's not in the correct position you won't get power. Have you tried power on the cabinet while pressing that little button in?

 

[snake_eyes_ex]

I was thinking the same thing. That switch has a mechanism inside, you could try to see if it is actually popped in the out position.

 

[tDRG]

Gotcha. No, I'll try that, thanks. I can't seem to get the switch to lock in place, I'm not sure how the mechanism is supposed to work. I can tilt the switch up and down or push it in, but it pops back out when I release.

 

[Anselmo]

Yea, that switch is broken, so it won't hold in place. I literally mean hold it in with your hand and switch the cab on

 

[tDRG]

Yea, that switch is broken, so it won't hold in place. I literally mean hold it in with your hand and switch the cab on

That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure
I see, looks like it's physically missing the cap https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/otjvkdy-jpg.47519/
Yeah, must have broken off on the way, looks like it's there in his warehouse:

 

[Anselmo]

They are brittle now and break really easily. Hopefully someone can chime in about a replacement part. I had one break and just zip tied it shut :<

 

[BlinG]

i've looked up and down many places and can't find anything that matches that 7amp fuse. You might have to salvage one from another PSU

 

[tDRG]

They are brittle now and break really easily. Hopefully someone can chime in about a replacement part. I had one break and just zip tied it shut :<

I think I have a lead on a replacement. Thanks for the info! Is ziptying it safe? Can it still blow if it has to?

i've looked up and down many places and can't find anything that matches that 7amp fuse. You might have to salvage one from another PSU

Always a good sign when fuses are irreplaceable. Is it the 7.5A fuse specifically that you can't find a replacement for, or can you not find anything current that fits in those slots?

 

[GeekMan1222]

I think I have an extra fuse in my box of parts. Ill check but it may not be the exact same.
The fuse holder was present and working at the warehouse otherwise I would not have been able to test it fully.

If I dont have one maybe we can source some kind of substitute solution.

Either way I got ya covered

Also I think technically these are reset-able circuit breakers for what its worth. Not just one time blow fuses in a holder.

 

[tiff_lee]

To clarify are we referring to the resettable thermal circuit breaker above the IEC cord inlet on the rear of the PSU housing?

 

[GeekMan1222]

NTE makes a Panel Mounted Circuit breaker but its 8 amp or 7 amp and not 7.5 amps.

This may drop in I would have to take some measurements.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nte-electronics-inc/R59-8A/11654575


Edit:
I need to verify too if the circuit breaker which is cracked above the IEC AC power input connector is in fact a 7.5 amp breaker. I cant recall off the top of my head now. The manual only shows a 7.5amp fuse but that may be internal on the actual PSU's PCB, since the manual isnt referencing any breakers. The breakers on the back may both be 10amps since the AC input and output are likely both 10amps.

 

[tiff_lee]

Ah yea so it is the thermal breaker.

Stock is 7.5A considering a blast is rated at 143W, at 100V that isn't even 1.5A (without getting into the nitty gritty of it). Not sure why they fitted a breaker so high actually, unless it was to account for model 3 loads, I dunno. Tbh 7A is not going to cause an issue, at 120V AC that's 840W, yeah.

The problem is the stock circuit breakers are an odd size/layout compared to new replacements. If you took a industry standard size one like W28-XQ1A-7
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-4-1393250-0.html

Stock one is approx 12.5mm wide, 14.9mm high
W28-XQ1A series breaker 15mm wide, 13.5mm high

so if you installed a W28-XQ1A-7 on its side it would fit with some minor fettling/dremel work on the hole

 

[GeekMan1222]

Ah yea so it is the thermal breaker.

Stock is 7.5A considering a blast is rated at 143W, at 100V that isn't even 1.5A (without getting into the nitty gritty of it). Not sure why they fitted a breaker so high actually, unless it was to account for model 3 loads, I dunno. Tbh 7A is not going to cause an issue, at 120V AC that's 840W, yeah.

The problem is the stock circuit breakers are an odd size/layout compared to new replacements. If you took a industry standard size one like W28-XQ1A-7
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-4-1393250-0.html

Stock one is approx 12.5mm wide, 14.9mm high
W28-XQ1A series breaker 15mm wide, 13.5mm high

so if you installed a W28-XQ1A-7 on its side it would fit with some minor fettling/dremel work on the hole

Very useful info on the sizing!

Yes it would seem any of these similar thermal Circuit Breakers that panel mount are larger than the factory one. Maybe a standard was accepted later on now.

The higher rating is more than likely to accommodate Model 3 and future JVS boards that they didn't know the power requirements for.

I don't think I have any similar circuit breakers I would have to check.

More then likely you will want to get some kind of substitute like the suggested TE one or the NTE one.
7amps is likely fine based on your calculations at least.

 

[tiff_lee]

Just had a look, a CPS2 in blast maxed out around 180W (that includes the losses for the stepdown as meter was before it).

The stock breakers are made by Tempearl, the CP-101PF range and no surprises discontinued. https://www.tempearl.co.jp/products/model/?no=183

So yeah, good luck finding a like for like replacement, new at least.

 

[GeekMan1222]

agreed and if the plastic is so easily shattered now on the OEM model from age you may not even want to bother with NOS or salvaged used ones pulled from some old rotting blast PSU

The price for a brand new breaker from another brand would likely be cheaper and really the breaker is on the back of the PSU its no harm no foul imo that it eventually needs a replacement but doesnt look exactly the same.

 

[psychicdrive]

when people help me move cabinets I make sure to tell them not to put their foot on the power supply when they tilt the cab back - it wouldn't surprise me if the shippers did that while moving it

edit: I want to make stickers now for my cabs that shows where to apply your foot

 

[tDRG]

I think I have an extra fuse in my box of parts. Ill check but it may not be the exact same.

Awesome, thanks! Please keep me posted.

The fuse holder was present and working at the warehouse otherwise I would not have been able to test it fully.

Yep, I can see it in the pictures you sent.

Also I think technically these are reset-able circuit breakers for what its worth. Not just one time blow fuses in a holder.

Yeah makes sense.

I need to verify too if the circuit breaker which is cracked above the IEC AC power input connector is in fact a 7.5 amp breaker. I cant recall off the top of my head now. The manual only shows a 7.5amp fuse but that may be internal on the actual PSU's PCB, since the manual isnt referencing any breakers. The breakers on the back may both be 10amps since the AC input and output are likely both 10amps.

It does appear to be 7.5A. There's an internal pic in this thread. Here's the cap.

so if you installed a W28-XQ1A-7 on its side it would fit with some minor fettling/dremel work on the hole

Sounds like a plan. Assuming it doesn't trip often, I could also just leave it floating inside the PSU, at least for the time being.

7amps is likely fine based on your calculations at least.

Cool. I assume using a 7A wouldn't be a damage risk, it'd just trip a little before the stock one would.

The price for a brand new breaker from another brand would likely be cheaper and really the breaker is on the back of the PSU its no harm no foul imo that it eventually needs a replacement but doesnt look exactly the same.

I agree. I've ordered a W28-XQ1A-7 from Mouser, should arrive in a couple days. I think I'll skip the ziptie method and wait for a new breaker. I'll just leave it inside the PSU for the initial test and maybe dremel the existing slot down the road.

edit: I want to make stickers now for my cabs that shows where to apply your foot

I'd be interested!

 

[GeekMan1222]

The only thermal breakers I have at the warehouse in my box of parts is 5 amp fuses and the size is likely not going to match the OEM blast ones so you would have to cut the hole bigger.

I would just go with one of the alternative options we mentioned, which it seems you have.



When I ship these I might start adding some cardboard or foam blocks over the fragile bits on the PSU or a note if this becomes more of a problem but I have shipped at least 20+ blasts now I have not had this happen yet.


Foot stickers sound amazing

 

[tDRG]

The only thermal breakers I have at the warehouse in my box of parts is 5 amp fuses and the size is likely not going to match the OEM blast ones so you would have to cut the hole bigger.

I would just go with one of the alternative options we mentioned, which it seems you have.

Yep, should be set. Thanks for the help.