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bagheera369

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Thanks @hoagtech!

Yeah, I certainly don't want to hold anyone up...and will honestly, probably be buying two for myself, so that if the process messes up the first time, I have options....and if it goes perfect the first time, I can use the 2nd one on the old glass, to take the photos of how it should be applied.

From what they've said, it will most likely be a wet application, and then need to be squeegeed out, to clear the liquid, and set the adhesive. This tends to cause issues, because you can lay everything out perfectly, and then lose it as you push the windex, or soapy water, or whatever you are using out....either that, or you don't get quite enough water in the setup, and watch something catch or tear when you pull it to adjust. The shop managed to do a bang-on job with it though, as Hoagtech's pictures have shown.

No method is fool-proof, but I will do my best to document everything as I go, and let everyone know if I think it's viable for folks who've never done this kind of work before. Most of us are reasonably nimble handed, given the tech skills we need to keep our games running....but experience is definitely a huge plus on this kinda thing, and I've done enough of it for a living, to have learned a trick or two. I promise, as soon as I can get out from lockdowns, and get funds moving cleanly, I'll start in on the ordering, and get info to everyone, as soon as I can.
 

Tealsnk

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Beautiful resto, I've got a plastic bezel ony aero that someone at some point etched letters onto to and will have to tackle that at some point. Loving the attention to detail too.
 

hoagtech

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Can anyone tell me what the ring order is on the nanao?

I got my Test Pattern Generator but cannot seem to locate the correct spin order.

I ordered convergence strips.

The yoke is securely fastened and does not seem to be the issue.

Any tips on Convergence would be greatly appreciated


 

hoagtech

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I turned on my parts cab and noticed the top and bottom (or sides in horiz orientation) have inky blacks where the picture should be. It looks to me like Horizontal Crush.

I turned the Hwidth coil and got it stretch a little bit but it still not filling the wheole screen.

What do you think is wrong with it and how would I go about diagnosing the issue? The Chassis on the parts cabs has not been recapped.


 

Hatsune Mike

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You're having some static convergence issues.

Get the convergence rings loose, and first go back to factory alignment. That might be enough.

Ignore the ring set closest to the face of the tube - that's for purity, which is not an issue you are having.

Think of the rings as adjustments happening in a polar coordinate system.

The middle set of rings adjusts red-blue alignment. Moving the two rings together will change phase, while separating /closing them changes the radius.

Once you have red and blue forming a nice magenta, use the backmost set of rings to adjust green-magenta alignment.

There is a bit of tug-of-war involved so you may find yourself redoing your prior adjustments.
 

hoagtech

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Change the jumper on the chassis to the right of the flyback from normal to wide.
Thanks @Jassin2

I found that toggle and worked!

Hell yeah. I was about to source a Hwidth spool but didnt have it to.

Heres the jumper wire location on the MS826SE for anyone else who has that issue

 

DecepticonZero

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Yeah the HW coil is really for slight adjustments on that monitor. Everything else requires the jumper change.
 

hoagtech

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I told @8bitforlife . "I am sick and tired of relying on other people to hold up my projects due to my lack of soldering experience and that I SWARE I would start soldering again after a rocky past."

And then I met Kenny. He was offering a 27" Trinitron donor tv for $15 on craigslist. I hit him up and when he saw what I was working on he told me about the Consolized Neo Geo he finished.

He just graduated WWU with an electrical engineering degree. He offered to help me if I can donate a candy to him after he fixes all of mine.

I agreed and we started by getting schematics online of the Aero chassis and then reading uF and voltage off capacitors and measuring capacitor footprint distance on an dead MS26SG chassis I bought from a member here for $40.

A few days later from Digipen, we have 2 full sets of capacitors.

So I got my Hakko FR301, Iron, flux pen, sponge, and solder ready and was taught some valuable techniques on how to look for damage and basics of soldering.

Here is my first successful Chassis capacitor exchange. It was easy as playing with Legos. We noticed leaking electrolytic fluid from 4 of them and then soldered on a 120v plug to the AC prongs.



After piecing it back together we tested, the dead chassis and Bam. Rise from your grave. (I haven't color calibrated)



I made sure the jumper was on wide setting but I couldn't get the image to fill the screen so I used my tv adjustment tools to mess with the hwidth coil.

(Note we're doing all testing on my cruddy parts cabs before transplanting to my refurbished)



I'm going to finish soldering all other capacitors on the chassis and with the help of the Hakko and Kenny. I have more confidence moving forward

Next up: Foot rests are here and chassis swaps
 

Kavas

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Yeah man good step forward. You just gotta ask yourself "if these people can do it, why can't I?". It's a skill you can become competent at on your own and through youtube. Doesn't require a 4+ year degree at a state university. :D
 

hoagtech

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I still need to add joysticks and buttons for my other 2 Aero City for the @alberto1225 2p 12b panels I bought.

I was thinking about doing Blue and Orange as that would suit the marquee well.

What do you guys think about these on Arcade shock for Joysticks?

 

Kavas

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Never used that specific Seimitsu stick, but I went Seimitsu on my cabinet. I will probably go back to Sanwa because that is my bread and butter but the Seimitsu feels fine and I haven't had any problems with it.

My friend was recently praising Arcade Shock recently as well.

I am just really glad your "parts" Aero's will someday be playable as well.
 

hoagtech

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The footrests are here.

I like the look and feel of them much better.

They are not 1:1 to the original though.

The medium treads are finer in between the big ribs.

I noticed when I removed the old ones, They were randomly cut by Sega so some had had the wide rib resting against the cab, Other had fine treads resting against.

I had Stickers for Days use their graphic printer to cut to size and had them all cut so the wide rib is resting against the cab.

The finish on the wide ribs have feint diamond marks on it from the mold I would imagine. I tried to take a picture of it (second pic down). Also they are thicker but rest nicely under the steel plates.

Ill be selling them at cost due to not being 1:1 for $19.00 paypal F&F.

PM me if your interested.

Overall, I'm stoked to have something comfy and grippy on my "perch"





 
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