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hoagtech

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We finished recapping the chassis and this chassis has a horizontal crush problem along with the side of the image being bowed out.

I made sure the pin on the chassis was set on "wide" and adjusting the Hwidth coil does very little.

Is there something further I can do to help this image?

(I'm using a glitchy sprites bomberman bootleg PCB)



 

rewrite

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I'd be double checking your work at this point. Chances are you have the wrong value somewhere or have put something in backwards.
 

hoagtech

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Lets sidetrack to the Blast Cities for a bit..

I had Sharp Image Repair recap the chassis of the x2 Nanao I had, and it did not solve my dimness problem unfortunately.

I kept the Tubes and chassis for a later date and am trying to transplant x2 Makvision 27's in their place.

I started by transplanting the tube and chassis into the Frame of the Nanao so I could I mount it.

I am stuck at the point of connecting the wiring to the old Blast harnesses.

The old tubes had these two wiring harnesses

Any tips or tricks to make this happen?



 

kuze

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Which Nanao chassis are you using and are they the right pairing for the tube? If not you need to check/change the heater resistor to fix the dimness problem. If they are original chassis that were paired to the tube from factory then may need a rejuve.
 

mR_CaESaR

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Lets sidetrack to the Blast Cities for a bit..




I can definitely help with this one as I' going through it atm...

The left one is the power (red and blue) and degauss (thick red cables), the right one is RGBSG.

The way it's designed is the monitor bracket is supposed to have the female versions of those connectors and if you follow through those cables, you'll see it route to the 15 way TE Amp connector and plug to the side of the monitor.

Here's what is normally on the blast city monitor frame

MKqb3BC.jpg
 

hoagtech

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Which Nanao chassis are you using and are they the right pairing for the tube? If not you need to check/change the heater resistor to fix the dimness problem. If they are original chassis that were paired to the tube from factory then may need a rejuve.
Yes got the 2 different revisions I forget the models.

mine had an extensive video pcb and the other had a smaller pcb with GUI.

JIC I swapped chassis after reinstall action to rule that out and had the same dimness after the chassis swap and worse convergence.

I believe the tubes are worn out but have not tried the heater resistor.

I’m happy to in the future but for now I am really looking for advice on a Makvision drop in replacement.
 

kuze

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Which Nanao chassis are you using and are they the right pairing for the tube? If not you need to check/change the heater resistor to fix the dimness problem. If they are original chassis that were paired to the tube from factory then may need a rejuve.
Yes got the 2 different revisions I forget the models.
mine had an extensive video pcb and the other had a smaller pcb with GUI.

JIC I swapped chassis after reinstall action to rule that out and had the same dimness after the chassis swap and worse convergence.

I believe the tubes are worn out but have not tried the heater resistor.

I’m happy to in the future but for now I am really looking for advice on a Makvision drop in replacement.
Right on, the Makvision being a flat screen will not fit flush with your bezel so you may need to add some foam if the gap bothers you. Don't get rid of the Blast tubes or chassis, you will likely want them later. ;)
 

hoagtech

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Lets sidetrack to the Blast Cities for a bit..




I can definitely help with this one as I' going through it atm...

The left one is the power (red and blue) and degauss (thick red cables), the right one is RGBSG.

The way it's designed is the monitor bracket is supposed to have the female versions of those connectors and if you follow through those cables, you'll see it route to the 15 way TE Amp connector and plug to the side of the monitor.

Here's what is normally on the blast city monitor frame
What are you going to use on the Makvision pin header to connect to these sources.

Are you going to hack a pc cord for the power source Connector?


do you source connectors for the pin header or do you solder and shrink?

Should I have swapped the tube into the Nanao frame?

In @Cereth YouTube video. The Mak frame was in tact inside the blast but the frame was not able to fit on the screw mounts of the blast when I tried, so I had to frame swap.

Thanks so much for the reply. It’s super duper helpful
 

hoagtech

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Which Nanao chassis are you using and are they the right pairing for the tube? If not you need to check/change the heater resistor to fix the dimness problem. If they are original chassis that were paired to the tube from factory then may need a rejuve.
Yes got the 2 different revisions I forget the models.
mine had an extensive video pcb and the other had a smaller pcb with GUI.

JIC I swapped chassis after reinstall action to rule that out and had the same dimness after the chassis swap and worse convergence.

I believe the tubes are worn out but have not tried the heater resistor.

I’m happy to in the future but for now I am really looking for advice on a Makvision drop in replacement.
I would never throw away the original tubes or the frames. I tried a tube swap but could only get the color green after finding the right impedance, curvature and pin count

I haven’t ruled out my yoke positioning being wrong or my convergence ring positioning.

My plan is to come across another dump run of tubes in the future to accomadate the chassis.

I have also talked with @8bitforlife and he has a kick ass rejuvenator I may be using and am looking for tubes for him as well.

But for now I’m stuck on the Makvision swap and this time around I want to get the cabs fully functional before I restore the exterior and graphics.
 

mR_CaESaR

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Sorry, I wrote that in the wrong context.. I'm not going through the same (changing the blast monitors with a makvision), I'm going through the same as in trying to restore a blast city :)

That being said, you should be able to get the respective connectors and plug them into the montior.

The plugs you've got come from the cab, they are connected to the degauss button on the control panel and the AC to the cab, the rgbsg is to the jamma edge.

I'm not sure of the exact pins on the makvision if it has a manual degauss or not.

Is this the only pin/connector you have for RGBSGND? I can't say i know what the other pins are for

 

statix138

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Sorry, I wrote that in the wrong context.. I'm not going through the same (changing the blast monitors with a makvision), I'm going through the same as in trying to restore a blast city :)

That being said, you should be able to get the respective connectors and plug them into the montior.

The plugs you've got come from the cab, they are connected to the degauss button on the control panel and the AC to the cab, the rgbsg is to the jamma edge.

I'm not sure of the exact pins on the makvision if it has a manual degauss or not.

Is this the only pin/connector you have for RGBSGND? I can't say i know what the other pins are for

This is the same monitor that is in the AWSD and E3 and they make a VGA cable to use that might be easier than that header. You can order one here - https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accssories/5504-312915P-0

Just use the switch on the remote board to switch between JAMMA video levels and VGA levels like a NAOMI.

I recently replaced the monitor in my E3 with one of these, swap the frame and it is a drop in replacement, and it came setup for auto-degauss. I had to remove two parts and solder in a header to wire back the manual degauss like the E3 is stock. I think I may have some pictures left over from when I did it if you want to go down that road.
 

hoagtech

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I got an NNC recently with a screen that does not turn on.

I'm fairly new to recapping and my last recap didn't turn out perfect.

So my plan of attack this time for the Toshiba PD-1843 chassis is:

1. Carefully identify each cap (Voltage, uF, location code, lead spacing, width)

2. Create a plot diagram drawing

3. double check each capacitor location for errors and list in an excel sheet.

4. Fill Digikey cart one at a time after double checking (I wish you didn't have to hit the back button every time you want to add a new capacitor)

5. I ordered a cap kit as well from arcadepartsandrepair.com to compare my cap kit with theirs in case I ordered something wrong and to check which capacitors they decided to go over voltage and why.







A few more days of waiting and I'll be ready to recap the board.
 

hoagtech

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I went to go test the monitor after recap on the New Net City and noticed their was no JAMMA.

What’s the best route I should go on this machine specifically for JVS to JAMMA.

JVS is new grounds for me. I have a Capcom IO from my MVC2 cab and I’ve been eyeing those Jammafier from @invzim

Which one would work best for NNC?
 

dewmansnk

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I went to go test the monitor after recap on the New Net City and noticed their was no JAMMA.

What’s the best route I should go on this machine specifically for JVS to JAMMA.

JVS is new grounds for me. I have a Capcom IO from my MVC2 cab and I’ve been eyeing those Jammafier from @invzim

Which one would work best for NNC?
The NNC Appreciation thread had a good comparison of some different options for getting JAMMA in a NNC. The TLDR from that thread seems to be the Jammafier + TrySync Helper is a solid choice for getting JAMMA added to a NNC with better video sync compatibility.
 

hoagtech

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I went to go test the monitor after recap on the New Net City and noticed their was no JAMMA.

What’s the best route I should go on this machine specifically for JVS to JAMMA.

JVS is new grounds for me. I have a Capcom IO from my MVC2 cab and I’ve been eyeing those Jammafier from @invzim

Which one would work best for NNC?
The NNC Appreciation thread had a good comparison of some different options for getting JAMMA in a NNC. The TLDR from that thread seems to be the Jammafier + TrySync Helper is a solid choice for getting JAMMA added to a NNC with better video sync compatibility.
Is the Jassifier @jassin000 a better replacement for the tri sync helper or is that LCD specific?
 

jassin000

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@hoagtech IF you are using a LCD/OLED screen (like I am with my VLX cabs) IMO the Jassifier+OSSC is a better option pairing/solution.
The TSH was designed targeting users of JVS cabs, like the New Net City for example... Still CRT based but accepting only of 31khz/VGA.

As this is your scenario (NNC) I'd stick with a Jammafier+TSH directly connected to the monitor, I think you'll get better/best results this way. :thumbup:
 

hoagtech

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I've been stuck on these joystick replacements.

They are the SS plates : https://arcadeshock.com/products/seimitsu-ls-32-01-joystick

My two issues are

1: What screw size should I use for joystick mount plate on the CP panel?

2: How do I adapt from the 5 pin joystick connector on the new LS-32 to my CP wiring harness that has individual grounds and female fork connectors?

Old style joystick connections

E6176-BFC-1-E6-A-457-B-AF46-EA71-CCB02866.jpg


New LS-32 5 pin connector

19-C9596-E-75-E2-4-BEE-9169-64818666-E0-B5.jpg


Do I have my tie my grounds from each connector to the ground pin of the 5 pin connector?
 
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