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TheDeath

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Hey guys, i wanted to share a little guide on how those Universal Chassis from China can be used for.
It's in in my native leanguage but you can always use Google Translate.
It was an hard time figure out the proper resistor value that these chassis require in order to be used on a monitor, after many errors and even fired up one of these, i finally found the solution.
I hope this can help anyone interested on using one of these :)

https://16picsel.wordpress.com/2018...ou-zhida-arcade-monitor-chassis-guide-e-info/
 

Triplegreen

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I am shocked as to what so little is said about the Wells Gardner U2000, but with an informative like this one and other ones, I been getting more educated on how to deal with it.
 

sonic323

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Hi

I want to buy this product, it looks great and it is a very good alternative to expensive and old arcade monitors. And they are new,

I just can't find and I'm looking for some weekly information about Compatible Consumer (Common) CRT TVs that can be used right away.
Nowhere can I find a specific TV model that works right away ..
I always only find use with the original Arcade Tube

I'm looking for TVs that are common in Europe, they can be different screen sizes.

With us, I throw myself into the rubbish every month and it's a shame if I don't know which one to put off.


Philips
Samsung
Panasonic
Thomson
Etc.

Please, if anyone has experience and can advise the exact model of TV CRT that can be used now, please write here .. :?:
 

nem

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Most tubes in European TVs will have the correct neck connector (B10-277), so then it's just a case of grabbing one with a compatible yoke.

According to the link in the OP, the horizontal resistance has to be between 1.3 and 2.5 ohms and the vertical resistance between 6 and 12 ohms.

There's no point in trying to look for one particular model, it's a waste of your time. There are hundreds of compatible ones. Just take a multimeter with you, crack open the casing and measure the resistance at the spot.
 

sonic323

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Thank you for the quick reply.
Most tubes in European TVs will have the correct neck connector (B10-277), so then it's just a case of grabbing one with a compatible yoke.

According to the link in the OP, the horizontal resistance has to be between 1.3 and 2.5 ohms and the vertical resistance between 6 and 12 ohms.

There's no point in trying to look for one particular model, it's a waste of your time. There are hundreds of compatible ones. Just take a multimeter with you, crack open the casing and measure the resistance at the spot.

At Alienexpres they have an offer at
9.10 and more pin connections.

I probably have the best chance to order 9 pins and then when I have it, I will test the old tv (horizontal resistance has to be between 1.3 and 2.5 ohms and the vertical resistance between 6 and 12 ohm).

(And I still have to buy a transformer 220 / 110V)


According to information on the Internet, I have the best chance at the Philips brand.
I will then know how I succeeded

Well thank you :)
 

nem

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At Alienexpres they have an offer at
9.10 and more pin connections.

You want one with a B10-277 base connector. That's the one in the link. It's the most common neck type in TVs here.
 

sonic323

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Hi,
In the end, I didn't buy this universal chassis.
I found out that only 15khz are produced, and when I own games for Model 2.3 and system 22, these games require 24khz.
Owners of these games are referred only to the converter (EGA to S-VIDEO) or (EGA to VGA) or to buy the original chassis 24khz ..

I am interested in what components turn on (switch) at Nanao monitor when switching from 15Khz to 24Khz.
Maybe they could be traced and find out which and according to them to make a scheme for adjusting a regular CRT TV.
Maybe it's just a few components that adjust the image to 24Khz.
Namam Nanao and no other monitor that gives more frequencies ..
 

TheDeath

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You can't do that. There's no "magical" trace or switch that can do something that is designed to do else. Maybe with broadcast monitors, good luck find one of these.
Do you wanna play 31khz/25khz on a regular Crt? Get yourself an EXTRON VSC500, these are beasts and work flawless doing this job.
I use them to connect anything, even computers.
Hell, even a NAOMI set to 31Khz and converted looks way better than the 15Khz built in itself.
Easy and hassle free (if you can still found one)
 
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sonic323

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Thank you for the advice :), I'll try to buy EXTRON VSC500,
I am currently using a Model 3 to a converter (GBS-8220) from it to a signal to another converter (GBS-8100) and this signal goes all the way to the JVS CRT TV and it is quite a shabby picture (blurred).
 

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war3zlod3r

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These can actually be quite good if you mod them and install GBS control firmware I have two I use one for my LCD TV and one from upscaling older games in my Vewlix
 

sonic323

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Hi,

I used this converter from the beginning for Samsung plasma.
Then I found out that I have a monitor that directly receives a 24khz signal and even a 15khz signal, only with some 15khz games, for example the (R-type) writing signal was not found.
It is a monitor type (ACER K270HA).
The original Model2,3 game will be displayed directly, only it cannot be switched to the format (4: 3).
Then, to my surprise, the signal is displayed directly by a cheap projector (Mini projector TECHNAXX Model TX-113) via VGA input, only Horizontal does not display the entire screen, error 1/7 of the image but the image is displayed almost perfectly. It would like something to adjust (shift) Horizontal .
I found this but it's to edit Jamma:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32910155435.html?shortkey=UBBFvYNR&addresstype=600
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Then I made a replica of the Scud Race Projection TV,

Forum:
https://www.gamoover.net/Forums/ind...025890b55dc8d&topic=36496.msg620843#msg620843

For the back projection, I used the usual AGROfolia for (Greenhouse) and the picture to the surprise shows beautifully. Used this projector (VLP SX125), I bought it for a great price (60 euros).
The image is beautiful, via RGB VGA or VGA and displays the image at a short projection distance.
Just after using about (2 months) something happened to the VGA input, it displays everything red or blue or nothing. Probably some chip that controls the VGA is damaged.
Only S-Video or AV input works.
Therefore, the best choice is the one (EXTRON 500).

I want to buy this universal chassis as well, I just don't have any original 15khz game yet.
 

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sonic323

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Custom TV Panasonic (TX 21S4TP)
I measured the values almost accurately
(Horizontal resistance between 1.3 and 2.5 ohms and vertical resistance between 6 and 12 ohms.) So I put it aside, to buy this universal chassis ..

I just want to know if anyone used this instead of (Isolation Transformer)??:

https://www.hobbyelektrodom.sk/menic-napatia-blow-prt-500-230v-110v-500w/

At the moment I use a simple (production) VGA to SCART cable and an image on a JVC TV (crt emudriver) and a MAME emulator.
The image looks like this:

It's a pity that universal chassis 24Khz are not produced ..
 

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TheDeath

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These can actually be quite good if you mod them and install GBS control firmware I have two I use one for my LCD TV and one from upscaling older games in my Vewlix
Yes, defenetly. But it's not an out of the box solution and requires some work.

I just want to know if anyone used this instead of (Isolation Transformer)??:

https://www.hobbyelektrodom.sk/menic-napatia-blow-prt-500-230v-110v-500w/
Thats exactly how i fried my first chassis. NEVER do that. Never. You can seriously blow the tube with the EAT, no jokes.
 

sonic323

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Thanks for the warning.:)
So I only buy (isolation transformer)

Panasonic TX - 21S4TP
There is a tube inside - Philips A51EAL135X13
Horizontal - 2.7 Ohm
Vertical - 10.5 Ohm
Diagonal 51cm

I think it will work
 
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