First, if there is a guide someplace else(looked all over this forum) that may make it alot easier figuring this out, please post where it is. I have most of a Slammaster CPS1.5 pcb set except for the B board, in which I am going to use a SF2 (91635B-2) pcb in it's place. This Slammaster was part of a project many years ago and I am finally getting around to doing something with it. It had the de-suicide treatment from Arcadecollecting.com site. So I reversed everything except for replacing the capacitor and resistor at R33 and C12. Can someone tell me what these should be and or maybe a pic of this spot so I can see what's going on. I have plenty of other non-working CPS1 A boards that probably have these parts? I have recieved my Infinikey CPS-1.5Q for this, so that should make some of the job easier.
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I believe I have the files in order to burn, but am wondering about the PAL at location A1. I looked in Jamarcade, but didn't find a file for location A1. Because I am going from a Slammaster to Cad Dino, do any of the other PAL's need to be changed?
PLD archive for repairs: https://www.jammarcade.net/wiki/index.php?title=CAPCOM_CPS1
OK, so I used 040's on the Kabuki board- I think that's correct. I burned all the eproms, reversed the Dead Battery Society mod, put Undamned's CPS1.5 Q sound kit in, fired it up aaaaaaaaand nothing 
black screen. I pulled off the bottom most board just and tested with another CPS1 title just to make sure I didn't have a dead CPS A-01, but it worked fine sans sound of course, so I can check that off. I tried 2 different working C boards with no change. I tried 3 different Kabuki's with no change. One question I had is do the Kabuki's need to be from a working CPS1.5 title as in pre-suicide? I have a pile of them from back in the day, but they are all from games that suicided. What else can I check?
black screen. I pulled off the bottom most board just and tested with another CPS1 title just to make sure I didn't have a dead CPS A-01, but it worked fine sans sound of course, so I can check that off. I tried 2 different working C boards with no change. I tried 3 different Kabuki's with no change. One question I had is do the Kabuki's need to be from a working CPS1.5 title as in pre-suicide? I have a pile of them from back in the day, but they are all from games that suicided. What else can I check?
Saturday Night Slammasters had extra modifications in addition to the normal desuicide in order to switch between encrypted and decrypted code for the check routine. are you sure you've undone all of it?
Also have you undone the de-suicide modifications on your C-Board?
and on your C-Board and Kabuki Infinity keys are you sure you're using the correct jumper settings for the game and region you're converting to?
you've confirmed that your A-Board works but have you also confirmed that your B and C boards are in good working order?
Also have you undone the de-suicide modifications on your C-Board?
and on your C-Board and Kabuki Infinity keys are you sure you're using the correct jumper settings for the game and region you're converting to?
you've confirmed that your A-Board works but have you also confirmed that your B and C boards are in good working order?
The extra modifications like the LS chip and wiring ,etc? Yes, this has all been removed and the capacitor/resistor replaced following Undamneds video. I am using a B-21 C board I bought when that kind member here was offering them up from China- I just removed the battery(tried 2 different ones) tested elsewhere so I know they work. Jumper for Cad Dino is 10000, so I moved both sets to this. Keep in mind this was formerly a Slammasters and I am trying to convert it to Cadillacs and Dinosaurs. B board I am pretty confident it is in working order, but if all else is exhausted, I will swap with another. Burning the Pal I was searching for above gave me an odd prompt when trying to burn that I hadn't seen before(don't recall the exact wording), but it seemed to burn ok, besides, if there was some issue with burning it I would just get corrupt graphics so long as everything else was working properly. Thanks for the suggestions so far. . .
Well it sounds like you've confirmed that the A-Board is good, that the C-Board and C-Board Infinity key is good if you tested it on other CPS1 setups.
I don't think the graphics ROMs will make a difference, I'm honestly not sure if the q-sound sample ROMs matter either.
So the problem is either
-the program ROMs
-the GAL
-the B-Board itself
-the sound program ROMs
-the kabuki
-the D-Board itself
Have you double checked / re-verified the program ROMs?
also what speed are these roms and the GAL you used?
I don't think the graphics ROMs will make a difference, I'm honestly not sure if the q-sound sample ROMs matter either.
So the problem is either
-the program ROMs
-the GAL
-the B-Board itself
-the sound program ROMs
-the kabuki
-the D-Board itself
Have you double checked / re-verified the program ROMs?
also what speed are these roms and the GAL you used?
I have no concerns about the program roms unless there was something wrong with the set I downloaded(doubtful). Speed I am not positive at the moment, but they are the same type eproms I have been using to do Capcom games for years, so no concerns there. The Gal I used is also the same I have used on other Capcom conversions. I will however do another and record what the prompt it gave me which I thought was odd and report back here with that. I tried a few different Kabuki chips with the same result. I have about a dozen I can try, but after trying 3 of them, I don't think that's it, but I'll try a few more. What I will do next is take another B board (verified good) and transfer all roms over just to rule that out. The D board is the one with the sound hardware correct? I don't know how I can verify that board w/o having another setup to try out. . .
I've programmed thousands of ROMs and one of the first things I do when I have problem is verify that they programmed correctly.
MANY MANY MANY times I've had ROMs that burned successfully and verified successfully and then when I had problems and put them back in the programmer to re-verify I discover that they're now verifying bad and need to be reprogrammed.
Just because you downloaded a good set, and you have a good programmer, and good chips, does NOT mean that they are actually programmed correctly right now. I mean it takes 5-minutes to re-verify the program and sound cpu roms so why not?
Problems that I've run into
- I've accidentally cleared the write buffer before programming so I programmed a "blank" rom to the chip
- I've accidentally programmed the wrong file either by clicking on a file near the one I meant to burn or forgetting to load the next image causing me to reburn the last ROM again
- I've had ROMs where the right file was burned and it verified good at the end of programming, and then fail to work on the board, then when putting them back in the programmer and re-verifying some of the data was corrupted for unknown reasons.
- Just last week I had a ROM that burned good, verfied good, failed to work, verified it again and it verified good, and then I noticed that one of the pins was lose. despite verifying good multiple times there was enough resistance across the cold worked pin that it didn't work on the PCB.
All of these scenarios appeared to be a successful burn even though they were not. There's lots of things that can go wrong.
normally I'd agree with that strategy but it sounds like this whole thing was piece together from parts, with the only original Slammaster bit being the De-suicided D-Board and everything else sourced from different places. Given that the De-suicide mod has been removed really no one game is any different than another in terms of what he tries first.
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I don't disagree on double verifying the chips for accuracy, and givin' not knowing the issue, I will probably take your advice and do it. Not arguing here, but I too have probably programmed thousands of chips(writing eproms since 2000), and I have actually never, that I can recall, programmed a rom that verified good and had it turn out to be bad- but willing to try anything. The A and D board are original Slammasters from the same set. The B board is from a SF2 and the C from a B-21 game, which may very well be from a CPS1.5 game. Would it make any difference with the different SF2 B boards for this- I don't know the stamped numbers off hand, but one version is stamped as 4096 on the pcb under the 40 pin eproms, and another version, can't recall the exact numbers, but they are equivalent to 27C400's. . . .
91635B-2 (4M MASK ROM TYPE) is the correct B-Board for most CPS1.5 games,
the Program ROMs should be 27c4096 (aka 27c4002)
the graphics ROMs should be 27c400
if you use 91634B-2 (4M JEDEC EP-ROM TYPE) B-board
both Graphics and Program ROMs use 27c4096 (aka 27c4002)
the Program ROMs should be 27c4096 (aka 27c4002)
the graphics ROMs should be 27c400
if you use 91634B-2 (4M JEDEC EP-ROM TYPE) B-board
both Graphics and Program ROMs use 27c4096 (aka 27c4002)
Hmmm, now that I am in front of my boards, the B board I am using is a 91635B-2. I am using 27c400's for 1-8 and it looks like I also used 27c400's for 21-23. Boom, that may be the issue. Not sure how I overlooked the clear 4096 stamping on the board. Probably just excited to finally get this little project going and see if it works- it's only been sitting on the shelf for well over 10 years. Off to reburn some 4096's and see what happens. . . . .
