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Diagnosing Konami Windy Wiggly / Wavy Image

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Kazejinno

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Hello,

I just picked up a Konami Windy candy cab that needs a little work. The image on the monitor is wiggly/wavy as you can see in this video:

https://imgur.com/a/HZ65HR1

I'm generating the pattern from a CPS2 test menu. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what the likely cause is here? I'm thinking of checking the capacitors, but a friend mentioned maybe it could be a grounding issue?

The monitor board is a Toshiba PB6643-1, Neck is PB6644. I believe the monitor is K29CR55 and the tube is A68KJU96X. Thanks!
 
I'm recapping the boards tomorrow. I bought this monitor cap kit which looks like its got the same neck and monitor boards:

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...oshiba-d29cr55-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/

I checked the cap kit vs the caps on the board and it almost matches up. There's two big caps the kit didn't come with. I had a hard time finding the two caps online but after some research I found the two missing big caps are 1.) 470uf 250v Nichicon LGU2E471MELZ 2.) 1000uf 200v Marcon AUF-M31 6E21-1A. No on has the Nichicon cap in stock and the Marcon cap I can't find anywhere, must not be produced anymore. I'm going to leave those two caps alone and do the rest of the board.
 
Are you referring to the big filter caps? Peter at APAR sells those. They're like $7 each. I just capped this chassis and you will need to change them because those may be the culprits themselves. You'll be real sad after spending 2hrs+ capping something to still be messed up.
Search on his cap kit description, they're usually listed there.
 
Hello! Thanks for the reply. I'll look and see if I can find them on that site.

This is the Marcon cap:

IMG_3631.jpg

IMG_3632.jpg


This is the Nichicon cap:
IMG_3634.jpg

IMG_3635.jpg
 
Kazejinno said:
I don't see the Marcon on that site. There is this Nichicon equivalent but it doesn't look quite right:
Click to expand...
You need to measure the dimensions of the capacitor on your chassis. Height is no issue according to your picture, so measure diameter to be sure it fits.
Filter caps are usually 22 to 30 mm in diameter. 10mm lead spacing snap cap Is the way to go.
The cap you linked to is arguably a better capacitor than the one made by Marcon, so all good there.
22 mm looks like it will fit you chassis, but always smart to measure just in case.
 
I've had a hard time getting all the right capacitors. I have two of what I thought were identical sets of PB6643-1 and PB6644 boards and I used the set that wasn't installed in my cabinet to check against the parts listing of the kit I bought from arcade parts and repair. The set of boards that weren't installed matched the kit I bought very closely. The set of boards that are installed in my cabinet however did not match as well. I bought an order of caps to cover what was missing but when they arrived it turned out the sizes are a bit off on some of them so I re-measured and just ordered another batch.

I did partially recap the installed boards and clean them up. The picture seems nicer and brighter but the original wavyness in the image hasn't gone away.
 
You'll never know much from a partial recap.

Question: does the picture improve if you leave it on for an hour?
 
I couldn't really tell if it improved. Maybe a little? What would be the cause if it did get better?

I'm in a pickle now. I finished the full recap today and the first few times I turned it on I only got blue color and it was very faint but the image was still correct size and displayed real graphics. I could hear the game sound as well. I double checked my work and turned it on again and then the monitor would be fully green when it got signal. Now when I turn the machine on the monitor doesn't seem to power at all. When I go to discharge it there's little or no juice in the anode when I touch it with the screwdriver I use to discharge.

I discharged it a bunch of times when I was replacing capacitors thinking I could identify the bad one. Is it possible I've damaged the monitor by discharging it so often? I hear game sound and the CPS2 board I have boots, but the monitor doesn't seem to be getting power. Any ideas?

I went back over and inventoried all the caps and double checked them against a cap list online and I've got all the correct caps installed. All the caps are installed toward the correct polarity, non-polar caps are in the right spots. Solder all looks good. I'm stumped.
 
The saga continues! Still working on the Windy which now will not power the monitor on, but powers the game board, speakers, and fluorescent light.

I have:
  • Checked all the caps in the power supply with an ESR meter - All good!
  • Checked all the voltages coming out of the power supply +5, -5, 12v, All good!
  • Checked the voltage coming from A/C to the monitor board was 123V.
  • Checked all the caps in the chassis / neck board for the monitor with an ESR meter.
    • 2 Dead caps and 6 that needed replacing. All fixed.
  • Put in a fresh HOT
  • Tried swapping a flyback off another board, no difference.
  • Bought a step down transformer and plugged it into 100v Japanese standard.
  • Had a friend with a CRT tube tester test the tube and there are no shorts, all guns are good.
When I turn it on I feel like I hear some power coming to the neck / chassis board, but no glow in the tube. No fuzz / static on the screen. No picture at all. The fluorescent light flickers on, the game board powers up, and I hear the game sound through the speakers. When I moved the joystick I heard the game board responding.

When I discharge the anode on the tube after trying to power it on it doesn't seem to discharge at all. No spark stored. It seems like the monitor is just not getting power, or enough of it. Anyone have ideas?
 
Kazejinno said:
I couldn't really tell if it improved. Maybe a little? What would be the cause if it did get better?
Click to expand...
Generally speaking if something consistently improves after it warms up it's a good indication it's a capacitor problem. Not a foolproof diagnostic tool!

Kazejinno said:
I discharged it a bunch of times when I was replacing capacitors thinking I could identify the bad one. Is it possible I've damaged the monitor by discharging it so often?
Click to expand...
I am trying to parse what this means. You did remove the chassis to recap it right? It sounds like you're powering it on in the midst of working on it. Did you keep plugging in back in after replacing each cap? Whatever happened, don't do that. Pull the chassis, replace all the caps.

There is nothing to be gained by trying to figure out "which one was bad". They are all old, you need to just put new ones in.

I'm far from a CRT tech, I've monkied with mine enough to know I can fix some things and get stumped like anyone else. I feel for your frustration. My only advice I can offer based on experience with bad colors is really check the solder joints on your neck board.

And, again not a tech, I would really stop monkeying about with discharging your monitor and using your screwdriver as a diagnostic tool. Hearing a pop or seeing a spark or not doesn't mean anything.
 
Kazejinno said:
Anyone have ideas?
Click to expand...
HOT could be dead. I know you replaced it, but i would check it again. Windy monitors are known for eating HOT's if there's a problem with the power somewhere down the line.

Also, just to cover the simple stuff, did you check the fuse on the main chassis board?
 
Hey thanks I did check the fuse! Sorry all for the long haitus. So I worked on it for a few weeks and started testing every resistor, every transisitor, almost got all the way through them and then I read a post on here from someone with the same board and same problem. They sent it to https://arcademonitorrepair.com/ and got it fixed so I decided I'd try that since I had to focus on work this summer.

Super nice group, but when they got my boards they didn't really look at them too hard. I sent the one I was working on plus the parts board I got with the machine to see if they could get both working. They saw my boards and saw they weren't stock and said they weren't going to try to fix them because it would take a while and I had paid extra to jump to the front of the line so they figured I wanted a response fast. They did say, however, they had the exact same board in stock and working which blew me away so I said sure send me a working board!

I got that one home and it does in fact work. I got it all tuned up and dialed in. The board they sent me has a number of components repaired and I think I need to replace the same components on my non-working board. I ordered all the parts but I've gotten caught up in work so I haven't tried to repair it. Plus I've been enjoying playing my machine haha.

I've got a hypothesis as to what's going on. So I've got a Pandora's box JAMMA edition and I've got a Japanese Vampire Savior CPS2 A/B board and I swap between those two. I bought a 2 way Jamma switcher that swaps between the two boards when I hold P1 and P2 start. The Jamma switcher doesn't work when the Pandora's box is the 2nd board. It swaps from the CPS2 to the Pandora's box, then flips back immediately. When I make the Pandora's Box the 1st board on the Jamma switcher it will power up.

Furthermore, when I take the 2 way switcher out and just hook up the Pandora's box there's this ticking/staticky/electricity shorting sound when the Pandora's box is starting up before it's feeding out video signal. Reading some posts while trying to repair some people have said that fast ticking is a power supply turning on and off, whereas if it was a long wait then a tick over it would be a blown HOT.

The previous owner also had a pandora's box JAMMA edition installed. I think what's happening is that the Pandora's box is feeding nonsense to the chassis board video while it waits to boot and this is burning out something on the board. Probably the power supply is my guess. I did a quick search through google to see if anyone else has experienced this but no easy hits.

Anyway eventually I'm going to replace the power supply components and test my theory. Thanks everyone for your help I'll update the post if I know more!
 
opt2not said:
HOT could be dead. I know you replaced it, but i would check it again. Windy monitors are known for eating HOT's if there's a problem with the power somewhere down the line.

Also, just to cover the simple stuff, did you check the fuse on the main chassis board?
Click to expand...
@opt2not hey sorry to hijack the thead :D my toshiba Windy's chassis HOT is always blowing off. Any idea where to start troubleshooting on the chassis ?
 
@Barth0lin0 hopefully @opt2not has some advice. I'd also recommend starting a thread on AO and seeing if grantspain can offer guidance too. He's sorted me out a few times for my Windy 1 and Windy 2 cabs
 
Barth0lin0 said:
@opt2not hey sorry to hijack the thead :D my toshiba Windy's chassis HOT is always blowing off. Any idea where to start troubleshooting on the chassis ?
Click to expand...
Is the HOT being properly insulated from the heatsink? These can short to the heatsink and blow if they don't have adequate insulating thermal paste or thermal pads.
 
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