jcmorrisii
Grand Master
I recently acquired a Metal Slug 6 conversion cart from another member here on the forums. Upon inspection, it looks like a modification from the norm rather than the typical implementation of specific resistors and capacitors placed in alignment with their respective silk screen on the PCB. Before doing anything, I booted it up and pumped in a few hundred yen and everything looked to be normal.
I immediately noticed it wasn't up to the standard Iv seen in other conversions in the past (cold solder joints, components touching each other, turned sideways, poor form in general) Because whoever did the work had done such a poor job, I thought perhaps there were some mistakes made. Multiple pads had been bridged rather than housing resistors, and one of the resistors was actually soldered onto one pad of one silkscreen then turned sideways and soldered onto one pad of another silkscreen, effectively bridging the two resistors. So I removed the bridge and soldered the resistor in its silkscreened pads where it appeared to go; upon doing so the board would no longer boot and give the "Fatal error on ROM" message. I replaced the bridge and all seemed normal again.
Iv seen numerous other examples of this same version on this conversion and I have NEVER seen this done. My biggest concern is that some corners were cut and there may be inappropriate voltage levels being fed to chips and I dont want to decrease their lifespan. If that is the case I would like to replace them with the correct components.
Im hoping that someone in the community also has a convert like mine and would be willing to use a DMM to meter the capacitors and resistors to find the correct values. Thank you to anyone who would be willing to take a few minutes to help me out with this, and maybe it can help someone else in the future. The following are my findings on my cart:
C1: Empty
C2: Empty
C3: 1nf
C4: Empty
C5: Empty
C6: 2.2uf
C7: Empty
C8: Empty
C9: 2.2uf
C10: Empty
C11: 2.2uf
C12: 2.2uf
C13: 2.2uf
C14: 2.2uf
C15: 2.2uf
C16: 2.2uf
R1: 3.3M ohms (This resistor is bridged sideways between "R1" and "R2" ) (intermittent readings, sometimes 0L, sometimes as much as 20M ohms)
R2: 30 ohms
R3: Bridge
R4: Bridge
R5: 10K ohms
R6: 10K ohms
R7: 10K ohms
R8: 3.3M ohms (intermittent readings, sometimes 0L, sometimes as much as 20M ohms)
R9: 30 ohms
I immediately noticed it wasn't up to the standard Iv seen in other conversions in the past (cold solder joints, components touching each other, turned sideways, poor form in general) Because whoever did the work had done such a poor job, I thought perhaps there were some mistakes made. Multiple pads had been bridged rather than housing resistors, and one of the resistors was actually soldered onto one pad of one silkscreen then turned sideways and soldered onto one pad of another silkscreen, effectively bridging the two resistors. So I removed the bridge and soldered the resistor in its silkscreened pads where it appeared to go; upon doing so the board would no longer boot and give the "Fatal error on ROM" message. I replaced the bridge and all seemed normal again.
Iv seen numerous other examples of this same version on this conversion and I have NEVER seen this done. My biggest concern is that some corners were cut and there may be inappropriate voltage levels being fed to chips and I dont want to decrease their lifespan. If that is the case I would like to replace them with the correct components.
Im hoping that someone in the community also has a convert like mine and would be willing to use a DMM to meter the capacitors and resistors to find the correct values. Thank you to anyone who would be willing to take a few minutes to help me out with this, and maybe it can help someone else in the future. The following are my findings on my cart:
C1: Empty
C2: Empty
C3: 1nf
C4: Empty
C5: Empty
C6: 2.2uf
C7: Empty
C8: Empty
C9: 2.2uf
C10: Empty
C11: 2.2uf
C12: 2.2uf
C13: 2.2uf
C14: 2.2uf
C15: 2.2uf
C16: 2.2uf
R1: 3.3M ohms (This resistor is bridged sideways between "R1" and "R2" ) (intermittent readings, sometimes 0L, sometimes as much as 20M ohms)
R2: 30 ohms
R3: Bridge
R4: Bridge
R5: 10K ohms
R6: 10K ohms
R7: 10K ohms
R8: 3.3M ohms (intermittent readings, sometimes 0L, sometimes as much as 20M ohms)
R9: 30 ohms
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