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LinkArcade

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it's an original rom from SDOJ PCB to DDPDFK PCB.
 

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kikaso

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Not sure if it’s just a myth but I’ve been told that it’s not good practice to put a protected electronics device in contact with the exterior of an antistatic bag given the benefits of an antistatic bag exist only on the inside of the bag.

Can’t say for sure if this is the case but felt it was worth mentioning given your advertised price/value.
 

djsheep

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FWIW, I have also bought anti static bubble wrap in Blue. TRY in Japan use a really nice green anti static bubble wrap also.
 

twistedsymphony

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Not sure if it’s just a myth but I’ve been told that it’s not good practice to put a protected electronics device in contact with the exterior of an antistatic bag given the benefits of an antistatic bag exist only on the inside of the bag.
Very old Anti-Static bags had conductive exterior surfaces. The style of anti-static bag in the first post is slightly conductive on both interior and exterior. it's no more unsafe to set a board on the bag as it is to set the board in the bag.
So it's no different then setting the board in or on a metal box. With this said, i would not recommend POWERING the board up while in contact with the bag as it's conductive nature means the potential for shorts. although this style bag does have high resistance (probe it with your meter yourself i you're curious).

more info on these and other style bags here: https://electronics.stackexchange.c...ags-have-conductive-interior-exterior-or-both
 

kikaso

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Very old Anti-Static bags had conductive exterior surfaces. The style of anti-static bag in the first post is slightly conductive on both interior and exterior. it's no more unsafe to set a board on the bag as it is to set the board in the bag.
So it's no different then setting the board in or on a metal box. With this said, i would not recommend POWERING the board up while in contact with the bag as it's conductive nature means the potential for shorts. although this style bag does have high resistance (probe it with your meter yourself i you're curious).

more info on these and other style bags here: https://electronics.stackexchange.c...ags-have-conductive-interior-exterior-or-both
That makes sense. Thanks for clarifying
 

EOJ

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This is a bootleg/conversion. I know someone with a legit SDOJ PCB with the same serial number. CAVE didn't put the same serial on two PCBs. There are 4 other features of this PCB that mark it as fake as well, but I don't want to publically list all of them because it will just aid bootleggers in the future.

Compare the serial number labels:

LinkArcade's fake PCB (note the slightly larger numbers in the serial, this is a big red flag):
zbf9B1q.jpg


The legit PCB owned by someone I know:
vyAY3nm.jpg


The person I know says he bought it from Suruga-ya. Since they post pictures of the PCBs online when they put them up for sale, it would have been easy for someone to find it and copy it for use in a conversion.
 

EOJ

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I'd really like to know more details on how to identify bootlegs of such a rare, costly board besides the paper serial number tag.

Basically, anything sold by a Japanese PCB shop will be safe, they know how to spot fakes. But if you see something out of China (or any other private seller anywhere, really), and it looks suspicious, ask around before buying it.
 
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twistedsymphony

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To be Fair this is a "conversion" not a "bootleg".
In the arcade realm bootleg implies non-original PCB, while a conversion is an original PCB and usually original code, just from a different game.
This is an important distinction because with a conversion (particularly one like this) there is arguably 0 difference between an original and a conversion in terms of the quality of the hardware and the accuracy of the gameplay.

Essentially, this was another official Cave game that someone reflashed to a different game.

Just to be clear
1. it's still really shitty to attempt to pass it off as an original and try to fetch the same price as an original
2. It's arguably still worth as much as the original game that was flashed over... just not the $5K being asked here.

I'd really like to know more details on how to identify bootlegs of such a rare, costly board besides the paper serial number tag.
Sound ROMs can't be re-flashed without removing them from the PCB so if there is evidence of re-work on them (like shiny new solder and flux residue) then that's a red flag. (and appears to be the case on this PCB)

Similarly the CV1K boards had a "B" variant which had half as much RAM as the "D" variant, where SDOJ was a "D" variant game and requires higher memory it's possible that chip was reworked as well to upgrade it. There are some other details too that I suspect but am not as well versed in to expound upon.

Really the CV1K games all run on identical hardware and are just flashed from the factory with different code, so aside from the "paper serial number tag." there's not a whole lot to go by, but again, as a conversion, there's not really any material difference between a conversion and an original either.

On a whole though there are few enough of these pcbs that hardcore cave collectors generally know who owns which serial number in the scene so if one pops up that has the same serial as another with a known owner that's a pretty obvious flag.
 
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EOJ

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F.. i have a muchi pork without a sticker
Funnily enough CAVE actually sold a few PCBs without a serial number sticker on the front around the time of MMP (I know of an example of Ibara Kuro from way back in 2008, straight from CAVE). Around this time they also sold a small number of new kits without the CAVE/AMI stamp on the box!

Do you have an inspection stamp on the back? Those are just as important to verify as the serial number sticker on the front (and another thing that is clearly wrong with this SDOJ PCB!).
 
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