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First arcade PCB!

MegaMan

MegaMan

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I finally got my first arcade PCB and it is a CPS1 Rockman the Power Battle complete with original artwork. After two years of looking I finally decided on this board. I was originally looking for an English or European board (and still am) but I decided to get this one because it had original artwork. It came all the way from Japan. In case anyone was wondering where I got it, I got it from an online store in Japan called Japan Retro Sale. Along with this I also got a second Rockman the Power Battle artwork and a Bubble Memories artwork.

Link to the website: https://from-japan-retro-sale.myshopify.com/

Now I have a few questions, what cabinet would go best with this board set? I know they were never sold with a cabinet. I did some looking around and I think I a Capcom Impress candy cabinet would go perfect with this. Would any other cabinet work with this board set? There aren’t any Capcom Impresses for sale and I know they are difficult to find so if anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.

Other stuff I’m looking for:
-MegaMan the Power Battle CPS1 or CPS2
-MegaMan the Power Fighters
-Original CPS1 box to go with my Rockman board set
- Taito F3 Bubble Memories

Thanks for looking!
 

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The PCB is JAMMA (which is a standard for games of that era). You can use any JAMMA cabinet or Supergun to play it.
 
There isn’t an “original” cabinet for this game. They were sold as conversion kits for arcade operators to put into existing cabinets they had on site. That’s why there’s a move strip and artwork included alongside the PCB.

If you want to keep it on theme, grab any Capcom JAMMA cabinet really. Here’s a good reference: https://www.hard--candy.com/wiki/candy-cabinets
 
Yah, they are conversion kits. But I didn’t know if there was a specific cabinet it was meant for. I’ll take a look at the list, thanks a lot. I know the English and European kits were usually put in Dynamo cabinets, I didn’t know if it was a similar thing here where the Japanese games were usually put in a candy cabinet.
 
MegaMan said:
Yah, but I want to make it original/dedicated. Or at least as close as possible to what an original cabinet would look like.
Click to expand...
There is no such thing.

If you really want to be 'purist' about it the Impress wasn't even out yet when that game was released, and it wouldn't have been the cab operators would have put it in.

But that's silly, get whatever makes you happy.
 
Aurich said:
There is no such thing.

If you really want to be 'purist' about it the Impress wasn't even out yet when that game was released, and it wouldn't have been the cab operators would have put it in.

But that's silly, get whatever makes you happy.
Click to expand...
Wow, I didn’t even think about checking when the cabinets were released. What made me think it was for an impress or at least would look nice in an impress, is that it has the clear marquee on the top where you can display the artwork. I guess anyt cabinet will work then.
 
Congrats! A word of warning.. store that CPS1 boardset very very carefully. The base A boards unfortunately have a very high failure rate, so treat it with utmost care :thumbup:

As for cabs... CPS1 looks utterly beautiful on the little Dino King cabinets... if you're happy to put up with a 14" monitor size.
 
Being that you're on the east coast, it's going to be expensive and hard for you to find a Japanese style cabinet. ESPECIALLY something like a Mini Cute.

I say do what they did in the arcades back then and throw it into a Dynamo. That's the American thing to do. ;)
 
Flinnster said:
Congrats! A word of warning.. store that CPS1 boardset very very carefully. The base A boards unfortunately have a very high failure rate, so treat it with utmost care :thumbup:

As for cabs... CPS1 looks utterly beautiful on the little Dino King cabinets... if you're happy to put up with a 14" monitor size.
Click to expand...
What’s the best way to store it?
 
Away from static. Nowhere near carpet!
Personally I have my pcbs in large cardboard boxes, wrapped in anti-static bubble wrap, because I leave the PCB feet on them. Others swear by anti-static bags (the big foil style ones).
Store them in warm areas, and avoid moisture.
 
Flinnster said:
Away from static. Nowhere near carpet!
Personally I have my pcbs in large cardboard boxes, wrapped in anti-static bubble wrap, because I leave the PCB feet on them. Others swear by anti-static bags (the big foil style ones).
Store them in warm areas, and avoid moisture.
Click to expand...
😑 Well I guess I’m the biggest idiot in the world because I had the board sitting on my carpet wrapped in bubble wrap in my other room that nobody ever goes in. Smh I do tons of research and try to be as careful as possible and I touch it once and possibly destroy it. I don’t know if the bubble wrap is anti static but do you think it’s alright? I don’t even have a cabinet to test it. It’s now back in the box it came in, wrapped and stored in my closet until I get a cabinet.
 
I also suggest storing it standing up vertically - gravity can make the boards sag in the middle over time. If you're really hardcore about keeping your boards safe, you can store it in standing vertically wrapped in anti-static wrap in an anti-static box. :D

IMG_3220.jpg

With all my CPS1 boards, I add a passive heatsink to the CPS-A-01 chip on the A Board to hopefully extend its life. It's a common-failure chip and it gets quite hot while the game is running. A 3 cm X 3cm square heatsink fits it perfectly.
 
ShootTheCore said:
I also suggest storing it standing up vertically - gravity can make the boards sag in the middle over time. If you're really hardcore about keeping your boards safe, you can store it in standing vertically wrapped in anti-static wrap in an anti-static box. :D

IMG_3220.jpg

With all my CPS1 boards, I add a passive heatsink to the CPS-A-01 chip on the A Board to hopefully extend its life. It's a common-failure chip and it gets quite hot while the game is running. A 3 cm X 3cm square heatsink fits it perfectly.
Click to expand...
Wow, those cases are realy nice. Where did you get them? Also, Is there like a realy good CPS1 guide that shows all the specific parts about the boards? I’m not very knowledgeable about computers when it comes to parts and other stuff. Hopefully I will be able to understand how the boards work because I want to know how to repair them since they don’t last forever. I know arcade hacker made one and It was pretty helpful. One last question, do you think my board is fine after having it on the floor. If you saw my previous comment.
 
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The anti-static boxes are from Protektive Pak - they're "Circuit Board Shipping Boxes".

I use two sizes:

Part No 37070 - 15-1/2" x 12-1/2" x 2-1/2" is perfect for most small and mid-size PCB stacks, including the CPS1.
Part No 37086 - 16" x 15" x 3" is for larger and/or taller board stacks, such as cased CPS2, Neo Geo, PGM, and Irem M72.

Protektive Pak also offers them with antistatic foam included, but that costs a lot more both upfront and with shipping, so I buy them without the foam and then use my own anti-static bags.

IMG_6138.JPG

The labels I create myself using a template and then print them out on glossy cardstock at a local printshop. If you're interested in the label template, let me know and I'll share it here.

As for the heatsink, here's that the bottom A Board of CPS1 looks like with the heatsink applied:
IMG_8966.jpg

And here's a link where you can order the heatsinks:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...84915?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIIBUDKBGMAGFBaAcgERAF0BfIA

As for the likelihood of you damaging your PCB - I think it's probably fine since it's wrapped up. Just make sure you discharge yourself from any accumulated static electricity by touching something metal before unwrapping the board. My tables all have metal underneath them, so I just touch the metal on the underside of the table before I unwrap the board.

Some general rules of thumb:
1) Discharge static electricity before unwrapping a board or opening an anti-static box.
2) Handle the PCB by the edges as much as possible.
3) Make sure the JAMMA connector is connected properly before powering the board up. Connecting the JAMMA harness upside down is a very common cause of board damage.
4) Use an adjustable arcade power supply and voltmeter and adjust the supply so that the voltmeter reads as close to 5.0V whenever you switch from one board to another.
 
ShootTheCore said:
The anti-static boxes are from Protektive Pak - they're "Circuit Board Shipping Boxes".

I use two sizes:

Part No 37070 - 15-1/2" x 12-1/2" x 2-1/2" is perfect for most small and mid-size PCB stacks, including the CPS1.
Part No 37086 - 16" x 15" x 3" is for larger and/or taller board stacks, such as cased CPS2, Neo Geo, PGM, and Irem M72.

Protektive Pak also offers them with antistatic foam included, but that costs a lot more both upfront and with shipping, so I buy them without the foam and then use my own anti-static bags.

IMG_6138.JPG

The labels I create myself using a template and then print them out on glossy cardstock at a local printshop. If you're interested in the label template, let me know and I'll share it here.

As for the heatsink, here's that the bottom A Board of CPS1 looks like with the heatsink applied:
IMG_8966.jpg

And here's a link where you can order the heatsinks:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...84915?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIIBUDKBGMAGFBaAcgERAF0BfIA

As for the likelihood of you damaging your PCB - I think it's probably fine since it's wrapped up. Just make sure you discharge yourself from any accumulated static electricity by touching something metal before unwrapping the board. My tables all have metal underneath them, so I just touch the metal on the underside of the table before I unwrap the board.

Some general rules of thumb:
1) Discharge static electricity before unwrapping a board or opening an anti-static box.
2) Handle the PCB by the edges as much as possible.
3) Make sure the JAMMA connector is connected properly before powering the board up. Connecting the JAMMA harness upside down is a very common cause of board damage.
4) Use an adjustable arcade power supply and voltmeter and adjust the supply so that the voltmeter reads as close to 5.0V whenever you switch from one board to another.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the info. I’ll probably pick up a couple of those boxes. I will also look into the heat sinks too. I also touched The Fossett of my sink which is metal so hopefully it discharged me before I touched it. I also wore cotton gloves since my hands sweat really bad and I held it still partially wrapped in the bubble wrap so hopefully it’s fine. I have a friend who has a cabinet so hopefully I can test it sometime soon. Thanks again.
 
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