Tom Rages On
Beginner
In the last few weeks, there was a discovery in the Primal Rage community that real arcade pcb's can be upgraded to the latest and last version of the arcade game, 2.3 (J).
This was done under the advisement of Gruntzilla94, the same person responsible for the development of the Primal Rage 2 emulator, and a couple of other romhacks for Primal Rage 1. I performed the flashing and testing myself, and so I'm here to spread the word.
Before we begin, a small bit of context for those that need it:
This version represents more than just a localization for the Japanese market, although yes, it does offer Japanese as a language option in the Test menu. It also includes some balance adjustments, single player AI tweaks (primarily to Sauron and Chaos), but the biggest changes were made to the inputs. First, the Start button was separated from the other attack buttons. Special and finishing move inputs were greatly altered. All of the three button specials were reduced to just one; plus, specials and finishing moves that included the Up direction were also changed. The 'Eat a Human' move that was unique to each character became universal. Per chance if you played Midway Arcade Treasures 2 on console, you may have sampled some of these changes already; however, the wires got crossed when it came to AI and many of the computer opponents either used few or no specials at all. If you are someone who liked the idea of Primal Rage on 2.3(W), but thought the specials were "weird", here's your chance to play the game - well mostly - conventionally. I encourage you try out primrage.zip on MAME to see if this update is worth it to apply to your genuine pcb.
If you intend to perform this update on your own boards, we're gonna need some stuff:
In broad strokes, follow these steps, observe all the usual ESD Safety guidelines, disconnect the JAMMA harness, etc., etc.
(If you require more detailed instructions with screenshots and photos, please download this printed guide )
Regardless of if you choose to keep English or change over to Japanese language, all other changes in the game will be present. This will also strip the game of your serial number on the title screen, if that matters to you. This process is also completely reversible. If you want to revert back to 2.3(W), remove the 2.3(J) chips and swap the originals back in.
This was done under the advisement of Gruntzilla94, the same person responsible for the development of the Primal Rage 2 emulator, and a couple of other romhacks for Primal Rage 1. I performed the flashing and testing myself, and so I'm here to spread the word.
Before we begin, a small bit of context for those that need it:
This version represents more than just a localization for the Japanese market, although yes, it does offer Japanese as a language option in the Test menu. It also includes some balance adjustments, single player AI tweaks (primarily to Sauron and Chaos), but the biggest changes were made to the inputs. First, the Start button was separated from the other attack buttons. Special and finishing move inputs were greatly altered. All of the three button specials were reduced to just one; plus, specials and finishing moves that included the Up direction were also changed. The 'Eat a Human' move that was unique to each character became universal. Per chance if you played Midway Arcade Treasures 2 on console, you may have sampled some of these changes already; however, the wires got crossed when it came to AI and many of the computer opponents either used few or no specials at all. If you are someone who liked the idea of Primal Rage on 2.3(W), but thought the specials were "weird", here's your chance to play the game - well mostly - conventionally. I encourage you try out primrage.zip on MAME to see if this update is worth it to apply to your genuine pcb.
If you intend to perform this update on your own boards, we're gonna need some stuff:
- Minimum (6) TI TMS JL 27C040-10 EPROM’s - these are the same model of the chips on the board. Can you use something else that is 32-pins and similar spec? *Shrug* Maybe, but I haven't tried, and I offer no guarantees. Can you use the original chips? Well sure, but I would treat them like vintage car parts (what happens if something breaks.....) (Optional: Any number of spares you can grab is a good thing)
- An EPROM programmer compatible with 32-pin chips - I personally used the xgecu TL866 II Plus
- EPROM Eraser - TI recommends that chips are erased before they are used, but it's also good to have on hand in the case of a bad write, or an "oops, I accidentally wrote the wrong ROM"
- A few tools - IC Chip Extractor (optional) / thin flathead screwdriver, IC Chip Insertion Tool (all the insertion tools I found either max out at 28, or start at 36-pin, either is fine) (also, you can do this by hand without one, but I don't recommend it)
- Nice to have - small, reusable labels and a fine tipped marker or pen
- Software - the programmer software that you will likely need to seek out on the internet, and a working copy of the Primal Rage 2.3 (J) roms (test it out in MAME first to make sure it works).
In broad strokes, follow these steps, observe all the usual ESD Safety guidelines, disconnect the JAMMA harness, etc., etc.
(If you require more detailed instructions with screenshots and photos, please download this printed guide )
- Plug in your EPROM programmer to your pc. Download and install the software for your programmer. This should also include any necessary firmware updates. Open the software and verify it sees your programmer connected.
- At this point, it is helpful to unzip primrage.zip and separate the necessary roms in to their own folder. You will need the following:
- rage_136102-2041a_pgmll.24l
- rage_136102-2042a_pgmlm.26l
- rage_136102-2043a_pgmum.28l
- rage_136102-2044a_pgmuu.29l
- 136102-2100a_mol0.2v
- 136102-2101a_moh0.2w
- Let's test a blank chip. Put one in to your programmer. In the software, select the chip (if you are using xgpro... Click Select IC > in the Manufactory list select TI > in the Device list, select TMS27C040@DIP32. Click Select). When you Read the chip, if every register from top to bottom shows High (or FF), it's blank and we're good to go.
- Now it's time to actually program the chip. Load the first rom in the folder you created earlier to the software, and write it to the chip. Expect this process to take a few minutes. In the meantime, you might as well make a label for it. Mark at least a partial name to identify the rom and cover the window of the chip.
- Repeat this process for the remaining five roms.
- Locate the roms to be replaced. The four program roms (those ending in 1041b) will be lined up along one side of the board. From the edge of the board going toward the middle, they are 136102-1044B, 136102-1043B, 136102-1042B, and 136102-1041B, and will be replaced with roms ending in 2044a, 2043a, 2042a, and 2041a respectively. The two MO roms are on the opposite corner. They are located near a square chip with a white label on it (incidentally this is also the protection chip), and in front of their sockets they are labeled as MOL and MOH. In all cases, take care to note the direction of the notches of the chips.
- Remove only one chip. If you are removing a program rom, the daughter board is probably going to be in your way. If you choose, you can leave it there and use a flat head screwdriver to remove the chip - but be careful. Lift one side just a bit, then lift the other side and try to pick up the chip. If it won't come up yet, lift each side a little more. Too much strain can bend or damage pins, so don't just try to pick up the whole chip from one side. After the first chip, you are safe to remove multiple chips at a time if you are choosing to leave the daughter board in place. If you want to remove the daughter board, keep in mind it's probably going to be stubborn about it, and if it is especially firm, don't try. Remember this stuff is old. Remove any ties or screws first, and gently rock the socket at each end at the edge of the board to remove the daughter board - if it will let you, that is.
- Now, grab a newly programmed chip. Check out the pins first, are they straight? If not, most IC Insertion Tools have some kind of feature to do that for you. Technically, you can straighten them by hand, but it's risky. These things are super brittle. Whether you are using an IC insertion tool, or going by hand, make sure the chips are dropping into their correct sockets, and in the correct orientation (check the direction of the notch) and seat them fully. They should be flat against the socket on both sides. I should also note that inserting chips by hand is where the most errors occur, so this is probably the best argument to not skimp on the tools. Repeat for all six chips. If you removed the daughter board earlier, put that back on when you're done.
- Let's do a power on test. Reconnect the JAMMA Harness. Do you see the Primal Rage title screen? You're done! If you want to see all the Japanese language stuff, flip the Test switch, go to Game Options, and change English to Japanese in the Language Options.
Regardless of if you choose to keep English or change over to Japanese language, all other changes in the game will be present. This will also strip the game of your serial number on the title screen, if that matters to you. This process is also completely reversible. If you want to revert back to 2.3(W), remove the 2.3(J) chips and swap the originals back in.
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