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arcadeWC

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How do you power a Sega Model 3 pcb board - can you power it with a standard ATX power supply? Naomi power supply? Is a special adapter needed?
I haven't seen a specific Model 3 power supply before - wondering typically how it is done. Thanks.
 

Starromeo

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I am having trouble too, it will be great to hear from someone who got experience with model 3
 

Darksoft

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twistedsymphony

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Model 3 requires +3.3V, +5V and +12V (though the 12V is only used for the case fans).

There are specific Model 3 power supplies (400-5330-XX), but they're prone to failure and if you can still find a working one they're stupid expensive... like more expensive than NAOMI PSUs.

SG-2050 sun_electronics.jpg


The Blast City PSUs are designed for Model 3 as well, since that was the target hardware for those cabs.

In my Model 3 VOOT cab I built adapter harnesses for a couple of NAOMI PSUs to power my model 3 boards and they work well... Model 3 is very hungry in terms of 3.3V power, Much more-so than NAOMI. If you can find the higher output versions of the NAOMI PSUs they seem to work a little better with Model 3 (though mostly due to the higher gauge wires I'd suspect).

There is a guy who makes an ATX adapter for Model 3, BUT they're $85 and still requires you have the original model 3 PSU harness. https://www.highway.net.au/arcade-p...ansformers/sega-atx-power-supply/17180-1.html


If you're interested in making your own PSU solution either adapting an ATX PSU, a NAOMI PSU, or simply building a harness for a Model 3 PSU I've created pinouts here:
Sega Model 2 and Model 3 Filter Board Pinouts


EDIT: looks like Darksoft beat me to it.
 

Finisterre

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There is an specific model 3 PSU with all its connector. You can also use a normal PC PSU. I've done it. Just look at the schematics and prepare a bunch of cables. Nothing complicated, although time consuming.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2cf8wo9.jpg

If you don't want to make your own wiring, check here:
http://www.highway.net.au/news/introducing-the-sega-to-atx-power-supply-adapter-kit/450.html

and here:

http://cwispy.com/tag/sega-model-3/
Just as a heads up, they won't be making these any more:

"Thank you for your inquiry, but we are very sorry as the manufacturer has just announced they have discontinued the product due to parts shortages . We have also today removed the product from our websites.

I am sorry for the inconvenience.

Best Regards,

****************************************************************
HIGHWAY ENTERTAINMENT PTY LTD
Date: 26th August, 2018
****************************************************************"
 

mundy

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What kind of ATX/guage wire do you recommend for this? In terms of Amps, etc I’ve tried a spare I have here and while it boots up sometimes it works for ages while other times it freezes after a few seconds .. this is without wiring up one of the power connectors the 6x3 one.. I presume this connector is only for supplying power to the dsb2 as game plays without background music
 

twistedsymphony

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the jst nh connectors on the model 3 filter board only support up to 22 awg wire, you can't go bigger than that.

In general for power I recommend going a's large of gage as the connectors support.
 

mundy

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Ok thanks I’ll see what I can find and wire it up properly .. am I right in thinking the 6x3 connector is only for powering the dsb2? I didn’t run wires to this because I was already experiencing freezing I’ll try include it with proper guage wire
 

twistedsymphony

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do you have a picture of this 6x3 connector?

AFAIK the DSB 2 is all JST NH also, which are only single row connectors
 

mundy

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Its the one in red, male connector, the 2 blue ive wired up to the ATX already and game is running fine (intermittent freezing sometimes which i assume is the wire guage and not enough lines used) the red seems to be feeding the dsb2 only (reason I have no background music)
 

mundy

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Never mind I lopped off the end of the atx and wired directly to female jst connectors using more lines and now everything is working fine and no freezing..
 

twistedsymphony

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Never mind I lopped off the end of the atx and wired directly to female jst connectors using more lines and now everything is working fine and no freezing..
that's probably the best way.

I see a lot of people adapt ATX to the model 3 PSU connectors, and then go from those to the filterboard. Honestly it's an extra unnecessary step unless you happen to already have the original model 3 PSU to model 3 filterboard harness.
 

Hackcell

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what would be the best option for a ATX psu? 350, 400 or 500 watt?
I see the model 3 PSUs consume 4A, however 350 watt psu consumes 5 or 6 amps. I'm concerned the fuse would blow as soon as I turned the machine on using a computer PSU.
 

awbacon1

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what would be the best option for a ATX psu? 350, 400 or 500 watt?
I see the model 3 PSUs consume 4A, however 350 watt psu consumes 5 or 6 amps. I'm concerned the fuse would blow as soon as I turned the machine on using a computer PSU.
rule of thumb is try to be around the middle of the PSU. So if you need 200 watts, I'd go 400 watt supply.

I run a 450 watt SFX power supply on my Supergun. Even on boards that draw minimal wattage, I have had no issues keeping the rails at proper voltage. It was a Silverstone 450 watt SFX. I just used the SFX form factor as A) it was modular and b) I had a spare
 

Hackcell

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Reviving this old topic. I have to do the same, however I only have at hand a 850 watt PSU. I hope is not an overkill for a Daytona USA 2 board. OR I could use the extra wattage to power up some 12VDC fans rather than the stock 100 VAC fans.

Any thoughts?
 

nem

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It doesn't matter, the board only draws as much power as it needs.

Anyway, personally, I wouldn't trust anything without adjustable power rails. If I wanted a new PSU for a Model 3, I would pick up a Mean Well QP-150-3A. Adjustable +3.3V and +5V rails that are both 15A max (plenty enough for Model 3).

For Model 2 that only uses +5V, be careful with these PC power supplies. I was recently called to fix a Virtua Fighter 2 on site. It had a faulty coin mech. When I got there I noticed the picture was strobing, so I peeked inside the cab and saw that it had a computer PSU rigged inside. I measured the voltage at the filter board connectors, it was showing 5.4V. The operator was next to me and I was like, you'll kill this game with this voltage. Even though the cab had been running fine for months (apart from the strobing which he didn't mind...), I had him convinced that it still needs to be fixed. The next day I fixed the shitty wiring job (screw terminals, hot glue and electrical tape; love it) and replaced the power supply with a regular 5V / 12V arcade PSU. Voltages were spot on and strobing was gone.

I don't know why it wasn't regulating the +5V line. Maybe the +3.3V rail being unloaded played into it.
 

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Hackcell

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It doesn't matter, the board only draws as much power as it needs.

Anyway, personally, I wouldn't trust anything without adjustable power rails. If I wanted a new PSU for a Model 3, I would pick up a Mean Well QP-150-3A. Adjustable +3.3V and +5V rails that are both 15A max (plenty enough for Model 3).

For Model 2 that only uses +5V, be careful with these PC power supplies. I was recently called to fix a Virtua Fighter 2 on site. It had a faulty coin mech. When I got there I noticed the picture was strobing, so I peeked inside the cab and saw that it had a computer PSU rigged inside. I measured the voltage at the filter board connectors, it was showing 5.4V. The operator was next to me and I was like, you'll kill this game with this voltage. Even though the cab had been running fine for months (apart from the strobing which he didn't mind...), I had him convinced that it still needs to be fixed. The next day I fixed the shitty wiring job (screw terminals, hot glue and electrical tape; love it) and replaced the power supply with a regular 5V / 12V arcade PSU. Voltages were spot on and strobing was gone.

I don't know why it wasn't regulating the +5V line. Maybe the +3.3V rail being unloaded played into it.

I've measured the psu (gigabyte p850gm) voltages with nothing attached to it and returns:

3.3v shows 3.4v
5v shows 5.10
12v shows 12.03

Is it too high for a model 3?
 
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