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The service manual says this is a bonded yoke and the sixth symbol in the Toshiba type number suggests its bonded but the neck has sets of rings on it. Is this similar to the other bonded yokes you have tried?
Yeah every bonded yoke I've encountered has electronically controlled purity/convergence.

Also bonded yokes will have a plastic film/wrapper between the yoke and CRT. See the pictures from kidkaos post here https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...tube-and-yoke-swap-monitors.12917/post-360804.
 
Hi there, I have a very burned tube inside an Astro and I was hoping maybe this one will fit. It's a THOMSON tube from a TV set with the same name. I just grabbed the TV for next to nothing thinking that it might be the right curvature. This set has excellent colors, and a very bright image, however I think the flyback might be damaged as the TV makes a "clank" kind sound every 20 seconds or so. When I opened it up to check on that I saw a little spark under the flyback everytime the sound is made. But I am very pleased with the overall image quality. I'll atach a few pics:

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20230622_124728.jpg

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So, right now I'm wondering what to do as course of action:

- Replace / repair flyback and try to snug the tube and TV chassis on the cab

- Try to do a tube swap and get geometry and convergence as good as possible.

Any tips from experienced enthusiasts that might help me out in here?
 
Astro/New Astro are 29" monitors [A68], you have a 26" tube [A66]. That won't work in your Astro.
 
A66 is 28" Japanese. 26" is A63.

But yes, it's too small.

Another issue is that has a single magnetized yoke ring, which you would need to hack off for a Nanao tube swap. It could work as is with a Hantarex Polo chassis though.
 
A66 is 28" Japanese. 26" is A63.

But yes, it's too small.

Another issue is that has a single magnetized yoke ring, which you would need to hack off for a Nanao tube swap. It could work as is with a Hantarex Polo chassis though.
Thank you nem. I'll try to fit it into the cab and just use the TV chassis. I just can't live with that burned monitor no more. I'll also give the flyback a look see if I can atleast stop the spark until I get a replacement. Will post results during the weekend.
 
A66 is 28" Japanese. 26" is A63.

But yes, it's too small.

Another issue is that has a single magnetized yoke ring, which you would need to hack off for a Nanao tube swap. It could work as is with a Hantarex Polo chassis though.
Hello again. I've measured the resistance on the yoke, it's 9.6 and 1.6 ohms. I can get a hold of a Polo 1 chassis and also a Polo 2 110°. Do you think any of those can fit this tube? Or at least be sure the chassis wont blow? Thanks for helping a newbie out.
 
Hey all, not sure if this would be the right thread but it seemed like a good thread to ask if I need to swap some parts on my extra astro city monitor. I think it’s a MS9.

The tube quality is great, however, it’s dominated by a blue hue. I happen to have two astro cabs and when swapping the the control units and adjusting the RGB values with the knobs, there was no change. I assume given this was from overseas perhaps it got damaged as before the machine was sent, it was working flawlessly. Any ideas or suggestions? I’m also thinking of just selling if anyone is interested, feel free to DM. Thanks! Video below.

VIDEO
 
Hey all, not sure if this would be the right thread but it seemed like a good thread to ask if I need to swap some parts on my extra astro city monitor. I think it’s a MS9.

The tube quality is great, however, it’s dominated by a blue hue. I happen to have two astro cabs and when swapping the the control units and adjusting the RGB values with the knobs, there was no change. I assume given this was from overseas perhaps it got damaged as before the machine was sent, it was working flawlessly. Any ideas or suggestions? I’m also thinking of just selling if anyone is interested, feel free to DM. Thanks! Video below.

VIDEO

You're missing red but should definitely turn down blue a bit.
Where in California are you?
If you decide to sell, I have a buddy looking for an Astro.
 
You're missing red but should definitely turn down blue a bit.
Where in California are you?
If you decide to sell, I have a buddy looking for an Astro.
Yeah, but it’s not something I can fix from the controls unit, I think the board itself needs re/soldering or repair maybe cause nothing I’ve been able to try has brought red back.

Right now I’m not selling the astro cab itself but will sell this monitor with the caveat it will need repairs. If you’re interested, DM me!
 
Hi again. So I managed to fit nicely the Thomson tube in the Astro cage. I paired it with a Hantarex Polo as @nem suggested and the image is quite good. I played ghost and goblins for around half an hour and it felt great, but when I switched game on mister this happened:



It's similar behavior as what the old flyback was causing in the TV, but way more severe now. The hantarex flyback is brand new and the chassis has been recapped. I cleaned the socket pins and greased the anode in case it has been moisture or something. I haven't made any adjustments yet. I also noticed later a slight screen oscillation in the menu:


I have no idea of what could be causing this behavior. Any help would be appreciated 😀
 
Had a successful tube swap today on a sad filthy MS9-29S from one of our fleet cabs I'm refurbishing, which came with horrible mahjong burn. The new tube is a Samsung A68KVL74X from a Korean "Ducksan" monitor we were given that caught on fire. Looks like the tube was also used in some Mitsubishi, Sanyo, and JVC TVs along with some Kortek monitors, so it should be easy to find.

Setup was extremely tedious. The rubber yoke spacers had to be removed and the yoke repositioned *exactly* in order to achieve good purity and convergence. I mean exactly--no tolerance for error. Once I got the yoke in the correct position, I tightened the clamp and pushed the rubber wedges in place and held everything firm. Shut it off and glued everything in place with hot glue to tack things down, and turned it back on to ensure the picture was still where I wanted it. I did this probably 4 or 5 times before I got a good result! I then used some blobs of construction adhesive to permanently secure the yoke and wedges.

Anyway, purity on all solid colors is perfect with no chevron magnets, but there is a slight dirty screen effect on a pure white screen. Focus is good, convergence is overall acceptable. I didn't have any strips on me today so I'm sure it could be improved with some more effort. Massive improvement over the dim and burnt original tube either way.

Someone recently told me there were "no known MS9 tube swaps" so figured I'd post in case it helps someone.
 

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Someone recently told me there were "no known MS9 tube swaps" so figured I'd post in case it helps someone.
I think when people say this they mostly mean no known tubes that match the curvature/bezel precisely. I've had success in tube swaps for the MS9, just never found one that sat perfectly against the bezel.
 
I think when people say this they mostly mean no known tubes that match the curvature/bezel precisely. I've had success in tube swaps for the MS9, just never found one that sat perfectly against the bezel.
Correct, tube swaps on ms8/9 have been done, it’s finding the correct tubes that’s a crap shoot. I’ve had success on one but it seems the more curved the tube, the more pain it is to dial it in.
 
I've shared on french forum my research recently, I've translate it for you here, hope it can be usefull

For Astro/NAC/Egret2/etc...

I've found Tube compatible for both spec and curve (not the easiest one)

Tube Toshiba A68KLF96X
Toshiba : 2929DD , 2927DB

20240216-211541.jpg


It's possible to install a MS9 + yoke
Otherwisen it's also possible to use the TV chassis in a cab because it's not a 100Hz and the picture quality is pretty good
20240216-211638.jpg




For Blast/Windy2/etc...

I've been able to found original tubes from Blast in a lot of TV for which the list can be increased for sure
Tube Toshiba A68KZN696X
Grundig : ST72-261 IDTV/LOG , ST72-261/8 IDTV/LOG , E72-911 IDTV , M72-105/9 IDTV (PIP) , M72-105 IDTV , ST72-160 IDTV , E72-911 , M72-795 , M72-795/9

20231014-161236.jpg


Tube Toshiba A68LBT696X
Grundig : M72-410/9 Reference , Sydney SE7230 DOLBY (VNM) , Atlanta SE7250 PIP/DOLBY (VNM) , Atlanta SE7250/8 DOLBY (VNM)

It's also possible of course to use those tubes with MS2930/31 + yoke but not only. some models have built in VGA port and are compatible for 480p native
20231216-175805.jpg


But all those TV chassis are useless for 15Khz because all TV are 100Hz

For example, the M72-410/9 Reference is pretty good at VGA


For NNC/Naomi (Flat)

I've found a TV with a tube from same familly (spec + curve) as the original Toshiba tube of the NNC
Tube Toshiba A68LQP356X
Grundig : Xentia MF72-490 Dolby

20230721-220518.jpg


It is possible to install this tube in a NNC with the Toshiba + Yoke chassis. It is also possible to use the entive TV directly in the CAB (direct drop off) because this TV have VGA input and directly boot into the proper input.
20231216-175843.jpg


The picture quality is so good that I use it as daily driver for my Dreamcast and Naomi
DSC-3432.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
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