Jaleco Pony Mark II 19 / Mark III 25 Coin Entry ?

[FrancoB]

I've got a Jaleco Ponk Mk3 25 and I'm going to make myself a new panel for it. One thing I could do with is a new coin entry to save swapping it over between panels.

Is this something that could be printed? Here's looking at you twistedsymphony

I can see if I can make a STP or STL model of it if it helps.

 

[twistedsymphony]

how viable it is for printing really depends on what the other side of that part looks like.

FDM printing needs a large flat surface to "stick" to the build platform while printing similarly it doesn't like overhangs (though it can manage if they're at an angle less than 45deg). in both instance you'd need to print supports. which can be tricky.

if you're interested in making a model I'll print one for you.

 

[FrancoB]

Thanks for your input!

Here's a shot of the back:

Would it be best to infill the negative space on the rear? If not I'll see if I can add some supports or bridges if needed.

Thanks again.

 

[twistedsymphony]

Would it be best to infill the negative space on the rear?

yes, if you fill in that cavity so that the bottom is flat (except for the screw holes and the slot) this should print very well it'll be much easier to model that way as well.

on the bottom you'll also want to add a 0.4mm chamfer around the screw holes and the coin slot. this will ensure there's no "lip" that forms around the edge as a result of the bottom layer squishing outward slightly as it tends to do.

for the screw holes you'll want to size them such that the screws you use will bite into the plastic and cut threads the first time you screw them in. I suppose you could use a proper tap as well.

don't be afraid to add chamfers and fillets to the edges of the part as necessary. parts in real life don't have razor sharp edges and while the details in 3D printing aren't always the best it does make a difference.


If I was modeling this in solidworks I'd start by drawing half a profile of the part and then doing a revolve to get the overall shape. then do a cut extrude to get the screw holes in the bottom, then a cut-extrude from the bottom to get the coin slot. and then figure out how to get the "fins" modeled.... (maybe a path cut for one of them, and then a pattern? hard to say without playing around with it) after that'd I'd put a small fillet on all the sharp edges and finally the chamfer on the bottom along the screw holes and coin slot.

 

[FrancoB]

Thanks for the info and tips, much appreciated.

Yep, that's pretty much what I had planned for modeling, apart from I'll be doing it in Siemens NX. I think the fins may be the only tricky part. I think I'll see if I can vertically section the part at each groove position, copy the profile of the section and then extrude the shape of the groove along the profiles/paths before subtracting them from the main body.

I'll be sure to add the chamfers/break edges too, thanks for the tip.

I'll let you know how I get on

 

[twistedsymphony]

stuff like that is tricky for sure. the best method really depends on what the profile of the groove looks like.

something I've never tried but might be a good application for this is to make a mold of the 3D printed part and then you can use that to cast it in aluminum

seems like this would be an ideal application for the process if you wanted to go that deep into it.

 

[FrancoB]

That's a really interesting video, thanks for sharing!

It would look pretty nice made with aluminium or nickle silver power. If I was looking to get a few made I would be tempted to give it a go just for the fun of it.

I think I'll get one 3D printed for a start and see how it looks painted.

I wish I still got machine access at work as then I could just 5-axis mill one but I've not been able to run any thing personal off for a couple of years now after they clamped down, boo.