JasenHicks
Professional
Hiya! If you have followed my Twitter/Discord or even the "one last run" thread (where I guess I torpedoed the title by offering another run of CPS3 cases) you know I have been working on a CPS1 case to complete the trilogy. The design is done and ready for prototyping so I am going to start taking orders for it in the next day or two at my archive site: https://jasenscustomsarchive.com/ - pricing will be two tiers - those who order now while I press the prototype out and fit everything, aka the discounted price) and then another that will be the normal price after everything is fit and ready to produce in volume.
Background: When Darksoft announced the new kit a lot of folks reached out and asked if I was going to do the case. I was reluctant because I wasn't sure how much time my classes were going to be taking so far out but decided to at least order the kit and have it on hand. Fortunately, I'm taking a bunch of business analytics classes right now that are rather easy since I know how to program in some languages and analytics is right up my alley as an engineer. A lot of folks gave me their wishlists for inclusions and made recommendations based on other tech so here's what the case design features:
1. Filter Board mounted inside the case, flush against one side of the case. Nuts with nylon washers will hold it in place so you don't have to see any exposed hardware there.
2. HDMI connector cutout on the back, just to the side of the filter board for those who will or want to install a DigitalAV kit at some point. You can blank it off with the blanking panel from neutrik if not needed.
3. On the front - The screen/button display just like on the CPS2 cases I did. Mounted inside.
4. On the front - Two 12mm button cutouts for the DigitalAV menu system, just below the screen/buttons. If not going to use the DigtialAV kit you can leave them open or put buttons in that do nothing. Either way is fine.
5. On the front - @Mitsurugi-w DIPSWITCH PCB. ** THIS IS THE DEBATE BELOW! **
6. CAPCOM graphic printed on the cover next to some vent openings. Open to other ideas if you want to toss them out!
7. 40mm fan on the back side of the case to allow air flow to move through the case if you want to add a fan.
8. Rubber feet on the bottom.
The CPS PCB will be mounted to a tray so you can attach your CPS1 PCB outside the case and hook up everything except the filter board. Then you can put it in, and slide it back to make connection with the filter board and screw the tray in to the standoffs . It should make the install a lot smoother and cleaner overall. It does make the case a bit more money overall, but its worth it given the complexity of everything fitting together properly and not wanting to have to do a bunch of costly prototypes that increase the final case cost.
DIP SWITCH DEBATE: The cable that connects the remote pcb to the one on the actual cps board has an IDC cable that is surface mounted on the same side as the dipswitches. Because IDC cables are so tall, to make sure it clears, the pcb would have to be recessed back rather far. This would make access rather difficult without a tiny screw driver. My thoughts are to mount it to the front of the case externally so it's fully accessible but the cable would have to come out of the case (from behind the PCB) and loop up and over to the PCB. I'm leaning to the second option, having the pcb on the outside. It's a little less streamlined, but it is rather clean and mounted with screws to the case. The alternate option would be to use his other pcb that mounts to the filter board and having a notch or cable pass through cut next to the filter board so the thin ribbon can come out and over to it that way. The downside here is that the dipswitches will be on the back of the case with the HDMI/filter board instead of up front with the actual controls you would likely use all the time.
Let me know your thoughts! Either here or over on my discord! The sooner the argument is had, the sooner I can get the listing up and prototype done!
Background: When Darksoft announced the new kit a lot of folks reached out and asked if I was going to do the case. I was reluctant because I wasn't sure how much time my classes were going to be taking so far out but decided to at least order the kit and have it on hand. Fortunately, I'm taking a bunch of business analytics classes right now that are rather easy since I know how to program in some languages and analytics is right up my alley as an engineer. A lot of folks gave me their wishlists for inclusions and made recommendations based on other tech so here's what the case design features:
1. Filter Board mounted inside the case, flush against one side of the case. Nuts with nylon washers will hold it in place so you don't have to see any exposed hardware there.
2. HDMI connector cutout on the back, just to the side of the filter board for those who will or want to install a DigitalAV kit at some point. You can blank it off with the blanking panel from neutrik if not needed.
3. On the front - The screen/button display just like on the CPS2 cases I did. Mounted inside.
4. On the front - Two 12mm button cutouts for the DigitalAV menu system, just below the screen/buttons. If not going to use the DigtialAV kit you can leave them open or put buttons in that do nothing. Either way is fine.
5. On the front - @Mitsurugi-w DIPSWITCH PCB. ** THIS IS THE DEBATE BELOW! **
6. CAPCOM graphic printed on the cover next to some vent openings. Open to other ideas if you want to toss them out!
7. 40mm fan on the back side of the case to allow air flow to move through the case if you want to add a fan.
8. Rubber feet on the bottom.
The CPS PCB will be mounted to a tray so you can attach your CPS1 PCB outside the case and hook up everything except the filter board. Then you can put it in, and slide it back to make connection with the filter board and screw the tray in to the standoffs . It should make the install a lot smoother and cleaner overall. It does make the case a bit more money overall, but its worth it given the complexity of everything fitting together properly and not wanting to have to do a bunch of costly prototypes that increase the final case cost.
DIP SWITCH DEBATE: The cable that connects the remote pcb to the one on the actual cps board has an IDC cable that is surface mounted on the same side as the dipswitches. Because IDC cables are so tall, to make sure it clears, the pcb would have to be recessed back rather far. This would make access rather difficult without a tiny screw driver. My thoughts are to mount it to the front of the case externally so it's fully accessible but the cable would have to come out of the case (from behind the PCB) and loop up and over to the PCB. I'm leaning to the second option, having the pcb on the outside. It's a little less streamlined, but it is rather clean and mounted with screws to the case. The alternate option would be to use his other pcb that mounts to the filter board and having a notch or cable pass through cut next to the filter board so the thin ribbon can come out and over to it that way. The downside here is that the dipswitches will be on the back of the case with the HDMI/filter board instead of up front with the actual controls you would likely use all the time.
Let me know your thoughts! Either here or over on my discord! The sooner the argument is had, the sooner I can get the listing up and prototype done!
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