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I really hope there is at least a firmware update to the MC Cthulhu to better support the PCE/TG16 since some games are still flaky with it. As well, it would be nice if it supported Mega Drive/Genesis too. Right now there is no controller board that supports Mega Drive/Genesis and we're stuck with having the use adapters to connect our multi-console sticks.

A little while ago Jasen from Jasen's Customs produced a redesign for the MC Cthulhu which he dubbed the EZ-Mod version. It sported a RJ45 and USB port, and was on a PCB that was the same size as the PS360+ and Brook UFB. Unfortunately his re-design screwed up the USB circuit so he stopped producing them for the market. But the RJ45 works. I wish he'd (or someone) would go back and correct that problem and produce another run, because it really was an easier PCB to install than the regular MC Cthulhu.
I just check the all post about MC Cthulhu and others.
I can upgrade the pcb in the future but we have to decide PCB what the people want it more.
I know everybody asking everything, but everything is not possible.

MC Cthulhu is a good alternative, but is there a market like Brook ?. If yes can we find it easily like Brook ?
I agree this, maybe I should not build the PCB for cheap PC-PS3 board. But I just though people wants a cheap alternative. I understand it doesn't necessary in the Arcade Stick Community. That means I can change the design. But I have to find and believe there is a good alternative....
I'm not the biggest fan of MC Cthulhu. It's a convenient solution for legacy consoles but not perfect. There was mention of the PCE issues that I haven't been able to test yet. But I can tell you first hand that even on something else like the Dreamcast (which was a big selling point for this PCB) and PSX/PS2, there are problems with inputs getting dropped and game incompatibility. Definitely not good in a competitive setting, which was a lot of the audience that bought that device back when Toodles started his efforts.

Can't speak for everyone, but for years I've been using converters that perform flawlessly for DC and a lot of other consoles. Granted, my sticks in this situation usually originate from a PSX PCB and in 2018 it's definitely not the easiest, most elegant, or even the cheapest solution and there may even be input lag to consider. But in general I get way better and more consistent performance via converters than with boards like MC Cthulhu or PS360+. Seems to me that there is an opportunity and likely also a market out there for a better "all-in-one" product for legacy consoles. Thankfully Brook is starting to offer converters for older consoles (PS2, DC, Neo Geo) that work with USB-type PCBs but it's generally expensive and not exactly something you can plug inside of a stick enclosure like what's being discussed here.
That is why people still use pad hacks :).
Absolutely. For anything that matters in a FG tournament, I've been using the same modded DC Agetec stick with a PSX padhack for almost 10 years now. My favorite stick by far, in terms of comfort and reliability. Sucks to have to change converters every time I want to play a different console but the thing just works and I love it.
What about if someone produce a PCB Fight Board only for Dreamcast with USB to DC cable.
Brook has DC support but with a converter. Maybe it can be done a fight board for DC directly usb cable...
That's the trick, isn't it? So far I haven't found anything that I would consider a high quality replacement PCB for legacy consoles, at least not anything that would be reliable in a high stakes competitive environment. The best option for these old consoles remain OEM and 3rd party PCBs via padhack, the ones that were released from back when these consoles were current. I hope the Brook PS3/PS4 USB based converters prove to be a good alternative. Looking forward to receiving the ones I ordered.

In terms of game and control quality, the western competitive fighting game scene would be way better served returning to arcade versions for older games. I'm glad that things are moving more towards that target in recent years. We had it right years ago, before the move to consoles for tournaments.
Sorry if this has been asked already, but is there any way to get a different button layout for this stick? I see all of your pictures appear to be using the Astro City P2 layout. Ideally I would like a case with the Astro p1 layout.
Sorry if this has been asked already, but is there any way to get a different button layout for this stick? I see all of your pictures appear to be using the Astro City P2 layout. Ideally I would like a case with the Astro p1 layout.
Sorry but it is impossible to make it for now :(. Because the main body of the metal arcade stick is only one part. You cannot change it...
Yeah, I figured as much. All of the high quality joystick makers on the market (you, Jasen's, etc) appear to be using Astro P2 for some reason. Such an odd choice given it is relatively unused in actual arcades.
You right about it yes :)

Maybe I will produce it different that can people choose their layout. We will see...
so finally got my stick after it spend 3 f*cking weeks in customs.... ;(

decided to unpack it and give it a go and make a little write up;

The card board box looks like it one of those cheapish China boxes but it was OK, not dented or dropped, but I would recommend a bit sturdier box for international shippings.
Inside the box the complete stick is nicely wrapped in multiple layers of bubblewrap

First impression
Was a bit surprised to find a completely assembled stick, I thought it was a DIY package

Did notice some small flaws to it which will not suit those which are perfectionists, like the Neutrik connector is installed a bit crooked and the plastic cover bulges up a bit

For me it is no big deal, I'll just try to loosen the bolts and turn it a bit, upon further inspection I looked at the paint job, it is quite good, looks like it is thick enough.
Don't expect automotive quality, but much more than good enough for a project at this price point, some small specks of dust here and there and 1 small defect in a corner

Using the stick
As far as I can say about the China controls, there feel pretty good, and have a very nice clicky feeling to them, so fair enough and doesn't need to be replaced with Sanwa parts on day 1 :)
The supplied USB cable feels also very decent and connects to the Neutrik connector nicely, not a loose or wobbly feeling, just a good tight fit.
When connecting it to my PC nothing happened, no pop-up or anything there was a new USB device, mmm, WTF is going on here?
Decided to open up the stick and there was a very clear culprit; the USB cable on the inside of the Neutrik was not connected :(

Decided to take a more detailed look inside, and WOW!, just WOW!, this is the cleanest install I've ever seen, decent quality PCB and connections by the look of it.
And it is just so clean and tight inside, almost wants me to replace the bottom with clear plexi to show it :P



Using the stick part #2
Closed up the stick with 4 bolts (which felt a bit loose when I removed them, so tightened them up properly now ;) )
Plugged in the USB and it get's recognized by Windows as Xinmotek controller and works just flawlessly directly.
Tested all inputs with the standard Windows tool and the result is a somewhat strange button layout, but could be this is how every Playstation stick is recognized on PC?
IMG_3460 - kopie.jpg

It is just a very good package for the price, unbeatable it would say! :thumbsup:

Some small points to pay attention to fur future batched and increased customer satisfaction;
- alignment of the Neutrik connector
- overall tightness of screws
- paint defects
- dust washer of the stick installed upside down
- the plastic overlay doesn't sit completely flush to the case itself and bulges up a bit, I think I can fix that by increasing the size of the holes used for the bolts, so it has a bit more room.

Overall just very very good, especially if you consider the price point!
Keep it up, and I can't wait what else we will see coming out of Turkey ;)
In addition to my review above, I would like to point out my package was inspected and opened by customs!
So maybe those assholes opened up the case and didn't install shit back together properly ?(
3 weeks in customs? Holy shit.. and I thought that I was the one having bad luck with them... :S
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3 weeks in customs? Holy shit.. and I thought that I was the one hacing bad luck with them... :S
yeah I think this could be for several reasons:
1. Packages from Turkey are deeply inspected, political issues etc.
2. @hursit sent it as ‘gift’, which is good, but even in the Netherlands you have to pay 21% tax for gift if it is worth more than €40.
And there was no value of the ‘gift’ mentioned on the customs form.
So I had to send them an official proof/invoice with the value.
3. After they received the papers from step #2, it was still ‘under investigation’ for 2 weeks, most likely because of reason #1 :(
oh I see... :(

Well it's going to get worse in the future.. thanks to that man with the funny haircut, i don't expect less controls from the packages comming from the USA and then we have the UK guys that decided that it's better to open customs again...

lucky us, there are very nice things coming from Poland, Italy, France.......
So, just to throw in here...I received a pair of these as well. Both in black.
Very pleased with the build quality, and I agree with Pascal....Hursit's custom pcb for the button wiring makes this stick look amazingly clean. No damage, box was wrapped with bubblewrap inside and out....ordered and arrived to my deliv site in 6 days.

I will still be changing out for sanwa parts, but the chinese parts are solid, and I will probably hold on to them, or use them as filler the next time I sell a candy. :D

Thanks Hursit, for an easy transaction, and an excellent product. Will throw pictures up, when I get the converison and art done.
Because I asked for mine to not have the TR logo on the clear...mine is actual plexi already. It's solid, doesn't shift/bend/bow, and is 100% ready for art. I just need to get illustrator for the template file, and then start in on custom work.