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klee123

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Anyone tried to run a Pgm2 game using the minigun?

I recently purchased an Oriental Legend 2 board and whilst I managed to get picture and sound, the controllers ports aren't getting any power.
 

semi-simple

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Anyone using the Sync Cleaner sub board with this? I am using the 680K Ohm resistor per the BOM, but, nothing will sync on my OSSC when I try it. The datasheet for the EL1883 states that a 681 KOhm 1% resistor should be used in order to get proper NTSC timing. Is the 680K that Frank has listed in his BOM generating PAL timings instead, and possibly giving me my NO SYNC issue on the OSSC? I have adjusted the porch settings as recommended when using this sync cleaner in the first page of the thread.
It's possible that an out-of-spec resistor will create sync issues, but the OSSC being pretty forgiving it's fairly unlikely (unless it is widely out of spec). Assuming you're using the AV3 input of the OSSC, make sure that you select RGBS for sync (i.e. "6" on the OSSC remote). What source are you feeding into the Minigun? Did you ever get that source to sync with OSSC, perhaps with a DIN-8 to Scart cable?

If you're stuck because your input has problematic sync, you can also try to replace the 1883 with a ISL59885. Then remove the 681kOhm resistor altogether and replace the capacitor next to it (pin 6) by a 56nF X7R grade capacitor, for instance 399-9370-1-ND at Digikey. (You can also just use this board: https://github.com/semi-simple/backporch, but it'll be more expensive than Frank's add-on board and you don't need all its features)

(also note that the 681 KOhm resistor, RSEL, doesn't switch between PAL/NTSC on the1883 but sets the internal timing reference which is used for a variety of things within one vertical sync signal. If it is off-spec, most likely it'll produce neither PAL nor NTSC syncs. Finally note that the timing between the syncs themselves is still controlled by the source, no matter the value of RSEL)
 

xlom

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Does anyone have a 9pin version for sale? Or a blank board for a 9pin version? Preferably state side.

Or even better, is it possible to modify my current minigun advanced 2.1 version to use a 9pin port?
 
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xodaraP

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Does anyone have a 9pin version for sale? Or a blank board for a 9pin version? Preferably state side.

Or even better, is it possible to modify my current minigun advanced 2.1 version to use a 9pin port?

I have some blank boards but I’m in Australia - matte black with ENIG finish
 

obitus1990

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Additional thing to try: Disable the LPF of the THS7374. To do that, you have to put the switch on the Minigun to "ON" (because of a mistake in the Minigun)

Sorry for the late reply...but, yes, disabling the LPF allowed for sync to occur. I figured this out by coincidence a few weeks ago, and forgot to reply to the thread.


On another note, any board I connect to the Minigun now lacks red output. Turning the pot for red doesn't change anything. I've checked continuity from point to point all along the red circuit on the supergun, and there are no breaks. Which component is the most likely failure here? The THS7374? If I check the voltages for R, G, B coming out of this IC, R is about only about 10% of the level of the signal coming out of the G and B.
 

Pap

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hey i have the 8pin boards,
but finding the 8pin cable is a nightmare where i live, is it possible to do a workaround for 9pin socket from the final version? I dont mind routing some additional cables as i imagine this would be necessary. but is it even possible?
 

GeorgeSpinner

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Sorry for the late reply...but, yes, disabling the LPF allowed for sync to occur. I figured this out by coincidence a few weeks ago, and forgot to reply to the thread.


On another note, any board I connect to the Minigun now lacks red output. Turning the pot for red doesn't change anything. I've checked continuity from point to point all along the red circuit on the supergun, and there are no breaks. Which component is the most likely failure here? The THS7374? If I check the voltages for R, G, B coming out of this IC, R is about only about 10% of the level of the signal coming out of the G and B.
Are you sure it's not an issue with your cable? No bent pins? Just making sure you've checked the simple stuff first.
 

Protokami

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Hey, how's it going, I stumbled across this project looking for a way to take a CPS2 board and play it on an hdmi monitor with minimum to no lag. I wanted to know what my options were for that, as well as if I needed to put the kick harness on the mini gun. I haven't been able to find any tutorials on putting this together, so if anyone has a good one available I'd appreciate that as well
 

obitus1990

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Hey, how's it going, I stumbled across this project looking for a way to take a CPS2 board and play it on an hdmi monitor with minimum to no lag. I wanted to know what my options were for that, as well as if I needed to put the kick harness on the mini gun. I haven't been able to find any tutorials on putting this together, so if anyone has a good one available I'd appreciate that as well

Yes, you connect the kick harness from the CPS2 to the Minigun, then enable the secondary buttons by using the dip switches on the Minigun.

You can use an OSSC, connected to the Minigun via a SCART --> MiniDin cable, and then connect the OSSC via HDMI to your monitor. This will scale the video as well as convert the 15 KHz video signal from the arcade board to a 31 KHz signal that the modern monitor will recognize. If you can solder, you can build your own, very inexpensive but very good, nearly lag free scaler by getting a GBS 8200, doing the mods to it, and installing the GBS-CONTROL firmware. You can build one of those for around $40 total, versus paying $150+ for an OSSC.
 

Protokami

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Yes, you connect the kick harness from the CPS2 to the Minigun, then enable the secondary buttons by using the dip switches on the Minigun.

You can use an OSSC, connected to the Minigun via a SCART --> MiniDin cable, and then connect the OSSC via HDMI to your monitor. This will scale the video as well as convert the 15 KHz video signal from the arcade board to a 31 KHz signal that the modern monitor will recognize. If you can solder, you can build your own, very inexpensive but very good, nearly lag free scaler by getting a GBS 8200, doing the mods to it, and installing the GBS-CONTROL firmware. You can build one of those for around $40 total, versus paying $150+ for an OSSC.
what about just using the VGA ports available on GBS 8200? would that be preferable over an HDMi install? I only ask because of how ill advised it is to even attempt any kind of HDMi usage, but it's hard to tell if im talking to someone who has experienced lag with HDMi, or just purists who like to keep things as native as possible
 

GeorgeSpinner

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what about just using the VGA ports available on GBS 8200? would that be preferable over an HDMi install? I only ask because of how ill advised it is to even attempt any kind of HDMi usage, but it's hard to tell if im talking to someone who has experienced lag with HDMi, or just purists who like to keep things as native as possible
The gbs8200 is pretty poor tech. I have a few. If you are desperate, it's ok. It's kinda cool that it will usually find a way to sync with any signal. It may just take a little while.

They gbs-control isn't worth the trouble, IMO. I have 2 of those as well. The image quality of the gbs-control is better than a stock gbs8200 but it's not nearly the level of the OSSC. The downscale feature of the gbs-control is kinda cool but I don't think you are looking for that. The software is buggy and I don't think it's really updated any more. It's cool for what it is, but it is is not what it's made out to be (a retail quality device).

If you just want HDMI without lag, you can get any cheap ($30 or so) component to HDMI adapter from Amazon that does NOT do scaling. It will just convert the signal to digital and any lag is negligible.

If you want some scaling with no lag and don't want to get an OSSC, you can try the retrotink line of products. The 2x is relatively inexpensive.

The OSSC is very good, in terms of image quality and lag. They are not too expensive and have many cool features. There's a bit of a learning curve but once you understand what's going on it's not bad at all.

The retrotink 5x is very popular right now too, but I'm not impressed with mine. It's performance is pretty good but if you have or know how to use an OSSC, I just don't see the reason to get one. I purchased mine specifically for the downscale feature but it doesn't even sync with the PCB I want to downscale (yet the cheap gbs-control does) so I wasted $300. Maybe someday it will, it's relatively new.

Maybe that was more information than you needed, but maybe some of that extra information will be useful to someone.
 

Protokami

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no this is fine. the only thing im looking for is playing on a 27" LED/LCD monitor with minimum lag. I don't mind having it scaled to fit the screen, but its not needed or what i'm mainly looking for. I'll check out your suggestions, thanks!
 

Protokami

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The gbs8200 is pretty poor tech. I have a few. If you are desperate, it's ok. It's kinda cool that it will usually find a way to sync with any signal. It may just take a little while.

They gbs-control isn't worth the trouble, IMO. I have 2 of those as well. The image quality of the gbs-control is better than a stock gbs8200 but it's not nearly the level of the OSSC. The downscale feature of the gbs-control is kinda cool but I don't think you are looking for that. The software is buggy and I don't think it's really updated any more. It's cool for what it is, but it is is not what it's made out to be (a retail quality device).

If you just want HDMI without lag, you can get any cheap ($30 or so) component to HDMI adapter from Amazon that does NOT do scaling. It will just convert the signal to digital and any lag is negligible.

If you want some scaling with no lag and don't want to get an OSSC, you can try the retrotink line of products. The 2x is relatively inexpensive.

The OSSC is very good, in terms of image quality and lag. They are not too expensive and have many cool features. There's a bit of a learning curve but once you understand what's going on it's not bad at all.

The retrotink 5x is very popular right now too, but I'm not impressed with mine. It's performance is pretty good but if you have or know how to use an OSSC, I just don't see the reason to get one. I purchased mine specifically for the downscale feature but it doesn't even sync with the PCB I want to downscale (yet the cheap gbs-control does) so I wasted $300. Maybe someday it will, it's relatively new.

Maybe that was more information than you needed, but maybe some of that extra information will be useful to someone.
So i'd be looking for a Mini Din-8 to RGB, then a Component to HDMi. idk why I didn't even think of that
 

GeorgeSpinner

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So i'd be looking for a Mini Din-8 to RGB, then a Component to HDMi. idk why I didn't even think of that
If by RGB you mean scart-RGB, I think there are scart to HDMI adapters that just do analog to digital conversion (no scaling).
 

obitus1990

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The gbs8200 is pretty poor tech. I have a few. If you are desperate, it's ok. It's kinda cool that it will usually find a way to sync with any signal. It may just take a little while.

They gbs-control isn't worth the trouble, IMO. I have 2 of those as well. The image quality of the gbs-control is better than a stock gbs8200 but it's not nearly the level of the OSSC. The downscale feature of the gbs-control is kinda cool but I don't think you are looking for that. The software is buggy and I don't think it's really updated any more. It's cool for what it is, but it is is not what it's made out to be (a retail quality device).

The software was updated 6 months ago. I've had zero issues with the ones I've built for myself. Recently, I bought a Moon Patrol board...the OSSC would not sync at all with this board (via the MiniGun), but, it synced and played perfectly with the modded GBS.
 

GeorgeSpinner

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The software was updated 6 months ago. I've had zero issues with the ones I've built for myself. Recently, I bought a Moon Patrol board...the OSSC would not sync at all with this board (via the MiniGun), but, it synced and played perfectly with the modded GBS.
I'm glad you like the gbs-control and that it does what you want.

If you look at what was updated 6 months ago, it was only the webui.

While a nicer interface is great, I'd rather have the functionality improved.

There could be several reasons the OSSC doesn't sync with your Moon Patrol PCB. It could be the OSSC needs to be fine tuned to sync with that PCB (and it's wonderful that it has this capability). It could also be that your monitor does like the signal from the Moon Patrol PCB.

The OSSC isn't going to change the sync rate of the signal. The gbs-control is going to convert everything to 50hz or 60hz (and add some lag in the process).

If the OSSC is lit up green, it has sync. If the display still has no image, the display doesn't like the signal. Sometimes you can still adjust parameters in the OSSC settings and get the display to sync.

My Panasonic plasma will not sync with several of my JAMMA PCBs through the OSSC (even some PCBs it syncs fine with over component 240p) but these same PCBs sync fine on my LG OLED.

I have sync issues with gbs-control and one of my PCBs.

I have to perform a complicated procedure and literally trick the gbs-control into syncing with my Midway 2 on 2 Open Ice PCB. I won't go into it here, unless someone wants to know.

The OSSC very easily syncs with the Open Ice PCB (54hz).

I'm sure everyone that gets into collecting PCBs will come across some sync issues. I wouldn't rate any device better than other based on what it could do with a single PCB.

When I was first getting into arcade PCBs and Superguns, the gbs8200 was a God send. It could sync with almost all my PCBs and at least get me an image on my plasma (albeit a very dull one). It did what the OSSC could not. I appreciated that it allowed me to play games on my plasma, as I didn't have another display that I could use conveniently. That doesn't mean that it's superior to the OSSC. It was just better for my specific situation, at the time.

Now that I have access to the LG OLED, I use the OSSC almost exclusively. Although there is a learning curve, (IMO) the OSSC is the best at what it does.
 

Protokami

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Question about power. I've seen some pics of testing the board using only GND, +12V, and +5V. Are those the only ones used, or will I need the additional GND, -5V, and +5V?
 
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