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Awesome! I'll get 2.1 as soon as it's available on your website!
May I suggest you look for an EU distributor for your products? You created a very good ecosystem and it's a pity for us in EU to pay customs and have potential issues with customer care.
Thank you! Sadly, there's no getting around customs. Someone has to pay them, whether it's the reseller or the customer. I'll keep looking into solutions but I don't have anything immediate.
 
Mistercade is an awesome project wich I love but there are issues on jamma rgb out! Not only on MS8 and 2930 ! And not only the V2, I have two V1 and not perform at same level of a genuine jamma ! The signal is not cristal clear eaven on MS9! The analog port is just perfect ! The jamma is not. I hope you adress this soon

And for mistercade v1? any solution?

I'm not aware of any issues with MiSTercade V1 JAMMA video. At the risk of coming across rude, have you adjusted the video levels on your cabinet? I've found that people adjust their cabinet for a raspberry pi setup, then put in MiSTercade and think something's wrong.

Typical arcade video levels are 1-5Vpp. MiSTercade has a 3.3Vpp video level. Most/all raspberry pi solutions have 0.7Vpp video levels. Cabinets are meant to be adjusted. If you're asking about MiSTercade V1.3, try lowering the RGB pots a tiny amount.
 
@misteraddons, I purchased a V2 some time ago but haven’t gotten around to installing it yet. I have a Capcom big blue (original non-Q sound) with a K7000 monitor. Are these mods (removal of the 3 resistors mentioned earlier in this thread, and this addition of the new 200Ohm) recommended or needed for the K7000? If so, I’ll just send it back for you to work on. I was going to try removing the 3 on my own but if there’s also a need to install new SMD resistors, that’s probably beyond my skill level.

Thanks!
 
@misteraddons, I purchased a V2 some time ago but haven’t gotten around to installing it yet. I have a Capcom big blue (original non-Q sound) with a K7000 monitor. Are these mods (removal of the 3 resistors mentioned earlier in this thread, and this addition of the new 200Ohm) recommended or needed for the K7000? If so, I’ll just send it back for you to work on. I was going to try removing the 3 on my own but if there’s also a need to install new SMD resistors, that’s probably beyond my skill level.

Thanks!
I would say to try it as is. If it looks dim, do the 3 resistor removal brightness mod. If you see ringing, then the latest mod will fix it. I don't think I've seen any issues with K7000 but maybe I'm mistaken.
 
I would say to try it as is. If it looks dim, do the 3 resistor removal brightness mod. If you see ringing, then the latest mod will fix it. I don't think I've seen any issues with K7000 but maybe I'm mistaken.
OK, thanks! I’ll make some time soon to at least stand it up and test.
 
Problem solved! This should have occurred to me sooner, but I wasn't able to reproduce the visual noise issue on my MS8-29 chassis.

Solution:
Replace these 4 resistors with 220 ohm 0402 resistors.

Screenshot 2024-11-19 at 7.11.30 PM.png


Background:
MiSTercade V2 has a slightly modified video amplifier stage compared to V1.3. The RGB pots act as feedback trim resistors instead of termination trim resistors on the output. When users reported the VGA output was cleaner than the JAMMA output on their cabinet, it narrowed the issue down to the amplifiers stage themselves (Which aren't part of the VGA signal path). I sent 3 modified PCBs to @Astro_jamma. These were marginally better but the issue persisted. A kind soul named Scott emailed me and pointed me to this forum post, which suggests adding series resistance to the amplifier output. Thankfully, I left myself an escape when I designed the video stage by putting 0 ohm resistors between the amplifier output and the JAMMA RGBS pins. I replaced these resistors with 220 ohm resistors and sent the 4th modified board to Astro_Jamma, who tested it today and reported that it eliminated the issue.

What's different about MS8 chassis compared to MS9 or others? I don't know. This modification either limits the current of the video signals, or tunes a low pass filter on the chassis side. Either way, it works and will be rolled into MiSTercade V2.1.

This fix also explains why MiSTercade VS and V1.3 need a small tweak to the RGB potentiometers on some monitors.

I'm happy to do this repair for free for customers (just email me on my site for assistance). Not sure how to work out international shipping - hopefully there's a better solution for non-US customers who experience the issue.

For those who want to DIY, 4 of these will do the trick. Just make sure you have a steady hand, or hot air, or both: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/RC0402JR-07220RL/726442

Sorry for not catching this earlier. I didn't see it (and still can't) on my test cabinets.
Oh hey, that's my post on arcade controls. The solution in that thread, as well as my Astro repair thread was because of your post 3 years ago! I was just spreading info.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...-for-jamma-cabinets.19382/page-12#post-307115
I've found that 270 ohm series resistors on the R, G, and B lines and 680-750 ohm series resistor on the H-sync line output 0.7V RGB and -0.3V Csync on a 75 ohm display. I may spin up a few standalone adapters to make life easy :)
 
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I'm not aware of any issues with MiSTercade V1 JAMMA video. At the risk of coming across rude, have you adjusted the video levels on your cabinet? I've found that people adjust their cabinet for a raspberry pi setup, then put in MiSTercade and think something's wrong.

Typical arcade video levels are 1-5Vpp. MiSTercade has a 3.3Vpp video level. Most/all raspberry pi solutions have 0.7Vpp video levels. Cabinets are meant to be adjusted. If you're asking about MiSTercade V1.3, try lowering the RGB pots a tiny amount.
The V1 not ouput rhe sane RGB level as an MVS or a CPS 1-2 , most monitor set must be rebalanced both gains and cut off, thus shoud be not needed...
 
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