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muckyfingers

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I just got mine in and I'm trying to install the drivers and update the firmware, but I keep getting "This device cannot start. (Code 10)" on Windows 10, anyone else have this issue?
 

bdlou

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I actually haven't tried to update the firmware on mine yet, but did you follow the part about putting jumpers on it?
 

muckyfingers

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I actually haven't tried to update the firmware on mine yet, but did you follow the part about putting jumpers on it?
Yes, I soldered a couple of pin headers and checked continuity. I even tried a USB A-A.

I couldn’t get any PC to recognize the adapter with just the jumpers and 3 known working USB cables, 1 about 6”, the other 2 about 6’ in length. It was immediately recognized as an unknown device when using the A-A cable and the P1 USB slot, but it will give me the error every time after I install the drivers, manually or even using Zadig.exe
 

ShootTheCore

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I just got mine in and I'm trying to install the drivers and update the firmware, but I keep getting "This device cannot start. (Code 10)" on Windows 10, anyone else have this issue?

I'm having the same problem here, and am experimentinng with different solutions. If I find something that works, I'll let you know.
 

zombiz

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Update for Brook XB users. Hold the Y button on your controller when powering up the system. This puts the Brook into Xbox 360 controller mode, which causes it to be recognized. Hope this helps!
Tried it today another time (with XB flashed to latest firmware): still not working for me.
(tried to force X360 mode, and tried it forced to Xbox-One mode --> no luck)

But the UFB works great.
 

hyp36rmax

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Props to @Zepherino for the case. Fits nice and snug.

BTW I was able to fix the prior issues I was experiencing. It turned out to be a faulty USB cable. I need to learn to remap. Anyone successfully do this?

IMG_8076.jpg


IMG_8077.jpg


IMG_8078.jpg


IMG_8079.jpg
 

hernan43

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I just got mine in the mail, but sadly I cannot get it to work on my Naomi 1. I've flashed a couple different firmwares, tried different lengths of USB cable, different controllers. It is using an external 12W PSU. Nothing. The N1 never detects it.

I have an XB360 controller plugged in and it does seem to recognize that. The ring light stays solid on player 1. So I have that going for me.

If I use OpenJVS on the raspberry pi that works so at least I know there is nothing goofy with the JVS port on the machine.

Is there a "best" firmware to be using for the MP07? I've used the latest unstable and the latest stable but again nothing works.

UPDATE

So right after posting this I flashed to 1.41 and used the options mode to set the "Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment" option. You have to go into the options mode and I had to hold the B/red button on the 360 pad while deactivating the options mode. This apparently was all it needed. JVS Test picked it up and I was able to play Ikaruga and Gigawing 2.
 
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skate323k137

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I just got mine in the mail, but sadly I cannot get it to work on my Naomi 1. I've flashed a couple different firmwares, tried different lengths of USB cable, different controllers. It is using an external 12W PSU. Nothing. The N1 never detects it.

I have an XB360 controller plugged in and it does seem to recognize that. The ring light stays solid on player 1. So I have that going for me.

If I use OpenJVS on the raspberry pi that works so at least I know there is nothing goofy with the JVS port on the machine.

Is there a "best" firmware to be using for the MP07? I've used the latest unstable and the latest stable but again nothing works.

UPDATE

So right after posting this I flashed to 1.41 and used the options mode to set the "Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment" option. You have to go into the options mode and I had to hold the B/red button on the 360 pad while deactivating the options mode. This apparently was all it needed. JVS Test picked it up and I was able to play Ikaruga and Gigawing 2.
Thank you for documenting!

Also... east lansing? I spent every sunday night at Pinball Petes for years!
 

hyp36rmax

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I got mine to work with UFB without any issues or forcing x360. Plug and play, albeit button mapping wasn’t properly set.
 

Zepherino

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@Zepherino Toyoshim-San ask if it’s ok to post the link to your IONA case on his site. Major props!

https://twitter.com/toyoshim/status/1507578687566544897?s=21

I don't have a Twitter account to reply, but Toyoshim-san is more than welcome to link the case to his site, or host the STL directly (credit would be appreciated).

If I happen get my hands on the newer board revision, I'll probably update the model as well. I wouldn't expect or count on this to happen though, since I don't need to buy another board, yet I do need the new version in my hands to update the case. It usually takes me 2-3 tries of trial and error printing to get a model to fit as well as I want it to.
 

hyp36rmax

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I don't have a Twitter account to reply, but Toyoshim-san is more than welcome to link the case to his site, or host the STL directly (credit would be appreciated).

If I happen get my hands on the newer board revision, I'll probably update the model as well. I wouldn't expect or count on this to happen though, since I don't need to buy another board, yet I do need the new version in my hands to update the case. It usually takes me 2-3 tries of trial and error printing to get a model to fit as well as I want it to.
Awesome! He mentioned a lot of his users in Japan have the V1. Also someone get this man a V2!!!

where in SoCal are you? I plan on getting the other version also.
 

Zepherino

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Awesome! He mentioned a lot of his users in Japan have the V1. Also someone get this man a V2!!!

where in SoCal are you? I plan on getting the other version also.

Greater LA area. If someone is willing to go through the trouble of putting one in my hands to borrow, then I can probably knock out an updated model fairly quickly, time permitting.
 

Zepherino

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I've had a few people offer to send me their PCB to borrow in order to make a V2 case, but what I didn't realize until just now is that toyoshim posted a detailed image on his manual page that shows the critical dimensions of the PCB. With these dimensions, and a more case friendly design due to space allowed for screw holes, I can probably just make the V2 case without needing it physically. That'll save the hassle and risk of shipping a somewhat expensive PCB back and forth. I don't think there's too many ways I can goof up the design and fit of the case, but then again... I tend to underestimate how many dumb screwups that I'm capable of.

I'll post the updated design on the 3D printing section of the forum when I finish it in order to avoid congesting this FS thread with posts.

1648315851461.png


^ This was the image on his manual page.
 

ShootTheCore

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I'm having the same problem here, and am experimentinng with different solutions. If I find something that works, I'll let you know.

I finally got the firmware to update, although the process was a bit convouluted.

- On the computer with the "Device cannot start" message, I couldn't find a solution to make it work on that machine. I swapped over to a different Windows computer, installed the Microsoft WinUsb driver and got "This device is working properly" on the first try. So try another Windows computer if you can. Also try using a USB 2.0 port rather than a USB 3.0 port.

- After getting "This device is working properly" on the WinUsb driver, I went to the firmware update site, chose a Firmware version and clicked the Flash button. I got a "Unknown device from WinChipHead" message. It turns out that message is normal - you can click on the "Unknown device" message to highlight it, and then click "Connect" and it will finish flashing the firmware.

1.jpg
 
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