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WTB MS-2930 chassis

Want To Buy
I have 1 but it is not working and does not include a neck board. $50 shipped in USA.
 
I have 1 but it is not working and does not include a neck board. $50 shipped in USA.
Thank you for the offer.

Yeah, that is mainly what I'm looking for, the neck board. I'm pretty sure that's where the issue lies with mine. It was working well for months after cap kit but all of the sudden. I'm still trying to figure mine out it's just that if I can get working board, why not.

Anyways I appreciate it.
 
I'll send you my ms2930 with no red or blue issue if you willing to get it working
Have you done any basic troubleshooting yet? I had one with no blue for instance, was simply a cold solder joint on the neck board, easy fix.
 
Have you done any basic troubleshooting yet? I had one with no blue for instance, was simply a cold solder joint on the neck board, easy fix.
I actually have a thread open about this issue on monitor help.

Yes, I have re-solder almost all neck board, tried all connection wiggling it, cleaning connectors,pots, pcb. What's funny is, I had no red at first, then when I resolder blue went. I'm believ my iron was probably too hot and burnt out those transistors? I don't know. After I did a capkit everything was working good for few months. Then all of a sudden. It happend right when I plugged the mister. But that's just coincidence.

I am trying to find where I can find those resistors/transistors for the color but no luck.

In one of the threads I saw geekman change one of those and it fixed.
 
also it would be unlikely you blew a transistor by a soldering iron. if you pull the transistors you can test them with a meter super easy. takes 30 seconds or less per transistor
 
There are two monitor repair guys in the states, Sharp and P.. something. Have you asked them?
 
also it would be unlikely you blew a transistor by a soldering iron. if you pull the transistors you can test them with a meter super easy. takes 30 seconds or less per transistor
Ah okay,

I just finished reading flowing and double checking neck board. Also, I swapped out the blue and green transistor with heat sink (Q312,Q322) and stil this same image o even reflowed the vide amp and as much ad I can see on there that needed.

20230410_213040.jpg
20230410_213036.jpg
 
I just did some discussion in a thread or two about one of my customers MS2930's that was missing a color among some other issues have you seen that one yet?
I did a youtube video. Theres actually 2 or 3 pairs of transistors on that neck board for each color. The main drive transistors are of course heat sinked. Also its possible to lose colors at your video amplifer chip as well. (larger IC on the actual chassis not the neck).

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/solved-nanao-ms2930-blue-screen-shuts-down.24946/page-4

Anyways someone like PNL or Sharp should be able to fix this, if it had a HV issue then thats an entire rabbit hole worth of troubleshooting on these chassis.
 
I just did some discussion in a thread or two about one of my customers MS2930's that was missing a color among some other issues have you seen that one yet?
I did a youtube video. Theres actually 2 or 3 pairs of transistors on that neck board for each color. The main drive transistors are of course heat sinked. Also its possible to lose colors at your video amplifer chip as well. (larger IC on the actual chassis not the neck).

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/solved-nanao-ms2930-blue-screen-shuts-down.24946/page-4

Anyways someone like PNL or Sharp should be able to fix this, if it had a HV issue then thats an entire rabbit hole worth of troubleshooting on these chassis.
Yes! I was actually looking at that thread.

Well, you see the thing is... If I knew the list of those parts , I would actually enjoy trying to do that first before sending out the board. I would like to change all of them anyways just for piece of mind.

Do you happen to know the part #s?
 
I can get you the part number right now

Transistors on neckboard related to colors

Q301: C1740
Q302: C4001 (Drive Transistor)
Q303: C4218
Q304: A1624

Q311: C1740
Q312: C4001
Q313: C4218
Q314: A1624

Q321: C1740
Q322: C4001
Q323: C4218
Q324: A1624
Wow geekman. Thank you so much!!
I was about to ship it out but I think I will try this first. You are a life saver.

Also, don't know If I was testing correctly but I placed multimeter on diode/open test.

On some resisters I got numbers while others I didn't get any. But none were shorted that I could here/see. Not sure of those number values meant anything but it's no coincidence that the colors I was missing had no number values while green did.

Anyways, I'll get all of them and try that out. Once again thank you brother.
 
You should use resistance check for resistors (mind that you may have to life one side of the resistor out of circuit to get a correct reading)

Diodes you wanna place your positive and negative probes in relation to the cathode side of the diode. Diodes will block the flow of current in one direction. When your measuring the bias (value) of a diode the current flowing through the diode is measured thats your bias. Its usually gonna hang around like what .480V~ or so. So basically with a diode you wanna check that in one direction its blocking current flow ( 0 volts) and the other direction has some bias flow (.480v or w/e the value is I cant recall off my head).


The logic of measuring a transistor is fairly similar to that of a diode there are just more legs involved. You will want to pull the data sheet of the part find out its pin outs (if its NPN or PNP) for base collector emitter and measure accordingly. Theres some youtube videos about how to measure a transistor. Also usually data sheets will list the bias values that are expected if you are really gonna dig into it. Usually on a chart or something.

If your suspect the transistor is bad you should pull it from circuit completely and retest it to double check its not a bad reading or something.

Hope that helps!
 
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