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MS9 - 29 New Astro city picture adjustment guides and sharpness improvement Help

hardyhell

hardyhell

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i am Looking for good guides on how to make picture Adjustments on these New Astro cab Monitors (ms9 29).

http://www.emphatic.se/?p=710

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_Correctly_Set_Up_Monitor_Colours_and_Brightness

These guides i used. but they do not follow the same way basically. tried both but still do have for example the sharpness differences at the outer parts of the screen.
my red will not go as high enough as the green and blue without turning the black into red/black.
Also when i turn down the cutof and gains to Zero the General Color tone of the screen stays blue black.which is no good Point to start off i guess.

are there any other guides you People know or personal experiences with which values to start the process. for example cutoffs at mid Level and gains on Zero bright on Zero Sub contrast on mid and then do sreen Level to where the test grid just vanishes.from there then adding cutoff Colors and gain Colors and so on.

And last Question. will it help to improve the sharpnes over the whole screen if i recap the Chassis.or does this have no effect at all?

thanks
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
The Empathic guide is pretty good, the SCREEN/FOCUS pots on the flyback don't help with your sharpness issue at all?
Click to expand...
it helps but not possible to get the same sharpness all across the screen.

and from other astro Citys i know that ist possible to have it good all across. so i think perhaps the recap could help in some way.

also i still wonder what is the best Point to start cutoff 50/50 as ge says or all the way doen as others say. and he does not Mention where to start with the contrast on remote board and as well for the contrast on the Chassis(Sub contr). the very strongly influence the sharpness and also one Thing that Always Comes up is that a too high screen value will Damage the flyback. is this true? if yes then i guess the best way to have the least creen value would be to have most of the other pots like brightness very high from the start so screen could be turned down.
 
With a MS9 your cutoffs shouldn't be half way. I usually turn them to point straight left. Gains, brightness and contrast should be at middle setting. Put up a color bar from a game. Then turn SCREEN to the point where your background stays black (as opposed to grey, or red, or green, or blue). Then fine tune each color from there.

As for FOCUS, put up a test grid from a game, adjust it so that the center of the screen is as sharp as possible. Corners will always look slightly more out of focus. If you see red, green and blue lines separating, then you will have to play around with the yoke rings (for the center of the screen) and yoke tabs (for the corners).

If your picture still doesn't look good, the chassis will need to be serviced / tube possibly rejuvenated.
 
nem said:
With a MS9 your cutoffs shouldn't be half way. I usually turn them to point straight left. Gains, brightness and contrast should be at middle setting. Put up a color bar from a game. Then turn SCREEN to the point where your background stays black (as opposed to grey, or red, or green, or blue). Then fine tune each color from there.
Click to expand...
so you turn cutuff to lowerst Position. gains,bright and contrast (the one at the romote board) to middle? and now screen down until black is black?
From there then you adjust the cutoffs up until for example on cps 2 the Color bars are all visible with the last step of grade not and the one before barely. yet still the Background stays black?
how high do you set the Sub contrast?


nem said:
As for FOCUS, put up a test grid from a game, adjust it so that the center of the screen is as sharp as possible. Corners will always look slightly more out of focus. If you see red, green and blue lines separating, then you will have to play around with the yoke rings (for the center of the screen) and yoke tabs (for the corners).
Click to expand...
the Focus i do with a grid,but like you also said only can have either the Center or the outside sharp.
On another screen i just recently saw the whole screen sharp.And also a the contrast immedietly alters the sharpness.for example if i set the Focus just fine for grid sharpness in the Center area(with the double lines clearly seperated at the cps2 test grid) an i just pitch the contrast a tip higher then the two lines melt again to one.

it is kind of a back and forth game... :(
 
At the lowest setting cutoffs point to southwest, you want them at west.

I forgot about sub contrast. I would start with it at a similar setting to the gains, so pointing left / west.

hardyhell said:
From there then you adjust the cutoffs up until for example on cps 2 the Color bars are all visible with the last step of grade not and the one before barely. yet still the Background stays black?
Click to expand...
That's right.

hardyhell said:
And also a the contrast immedietly alters the sharpness.for example if i set the Focus just fine for grid sharpness in the Center area(with the double lines clearly seperated at the cps2 test grid) an i just pitch the contrast a tip higher then the two lines melt again to one.
Click to expand...
That's normal. The focus will blow out if you have your contrast too high. Adjust gains and / or sub contrast so this doesn't happen when you turn up SCREEN.
 
nem said:
At the lowest setting cutoffs point to southwest, you want them at west.
Click to expand...
ok ok it was like this by Default(west) which is About 25% value then

nem said:
I forgot about sub contrast. I would start with it at a similar setting to the gains, so pointing left / west.
Click to expand...
i suppose you mean same like cutoff.was there also before as far as i have seen.


nem said:
That's normal. The focus will blow out if you have your contrast too high. Adjust gains and / or sub contrast so this doesn't happen when you turn up SCREEN.
Click to expand...
the blowing happens when i turn up the contrast at the remote board.not screen. screen will stay like it is after the black is black process at the beginning.
what is your opinion on the to high screen value will Damage the flyback?
 
hardyhell said:
i suppose you mean same like cutoff.was there also before as far as i have seen.
Click to expand...
Yes, cutoffs, my mistake.

hardyhell said:
the blowing happens when i turn up the contrast at the remote board.not screen. screen will stay like it is after the black is black process at the beginning.
Click to expand...
That's why I said adjust SCREEN. Keep the remote on defaults.

hardyhell said:
what is your opinion on the to high screen value will Damage the flyback?
Click to expand...
Won't matter at all.
 
Tried to set it at the weekend. Works kind of with different ways. Not sure yet which spot is the best to start from. Noticed also that my chassis has the pots on cutoff and sub contrast like pointing the pot down (towards the pcb) at min and up its max. So I started with setting it up between lowest and mid value. Turned down Screen till the grid just vanished and from there the cutoff up until the black did not take the Color of the adjusted one.
Then the gains up ( which were almost set to min at the start). After the gains or let’s say with it I also adjusted brightness up from the almost min setting, stopping just before black would appear grey.
Contrast was about 15% from start went also up until the lines of the grid test would become too thick or over shining.
One problem remains though. Red is not possible to get as high as the other colours in the color bar test screen without creating red tinted black. So I turned the others a bit down too. Now color bars in cps2 test screen are visible up to bar numbered 2 and bar 1 and 0 not visible.
 
hardyhell said:
One problem remains though. Red is not possible to get as high as the other colours in the color bar test screen without creating red tinted black. So I turned the others a bit down too.
Click to expand...
I find that normal. You have to compensate with the other two.

How's the sharpness?
 
nem said:
hardyhell said:
One problem remains though. Red is not possible to get as high as the other colours in the color bar test screen without creating red tinted black. So I turned the others a bit down too.
Click to expand...
I find that normal. You have to compensate with the other two.

How's the sharpness?
Click to expand...
still the outside is worse that the middle and vice versa. hope i have found a Kind of compromise. not sure if it will be visible on pics. i would make some to show perhaps
 
Have you check emissions on the tube cathodes for each colour? Need to make sure tube itself is balanced first before calibrating chassis.
 
You need a CRT emissions tester....aka a "rejuvenater".

Something like this is what I use. Bk 490. It shows you the emissions of each individual gun to make sure they are all emitting properly and the same value. It's very common now to have one or more guns not emitting properly.
q09Q4vH.jpg
 
Pic above is all good.


If you tube look like this pic below... You will have a very very hard time trying to calibrate colour drive, cuts, tracking etc... Because emissions are way different between colours. In that case you need to attempt to balance or rejuvenate until they are back in line.

kKNsyPL.jpg
 
Yes sir. It can rejuvenate as well IF needed. That is the "restore" option on tester. Only meter can tell if you need it though. You can't tell by looking at tube so don't ever listen to anyone that just tells you to rejuvenate, especially someone seeing it over the Internet. Just like you can't tell if voltage on power supply needs adjusting just by looking at it... You need to hook up a meter and it will tell you. You don't want to attempt to rejuvenate a tube that is already good.
 
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