The RGB PCB with impedance matching signals is installed (files are public - OSHPARK.com or AISLER.net): 
The picture looks great!
The picture looks great!
Last edited:
- Thread starter SVM
- Start date
Sorry to ask this Question, I am a complete noob.
Trying to colonize a MV1fZ, if I order the boards as listed/mentioned above, do I have to get the other electronic parts ?
I am more interested in the " RGB PCB" as my Ali-express consolized MV1C is dead. I think its their shitty parts have have died... the board itself (MV1C) works.
I have soldering skills, I can easily solder the stuff. Just curious.
Trying to colonize a MV1fZ, if I order the boards as listed/mentioned above, do I have to get the other electronic parts ?
I am more interested in the " RGB PCB" as my Ali-express consolized MV1C is dead. I think its their shitty parts have have died... the board itself (MV1C) works.
I have soldering skills, I can easily solder the stuff. Just curious.
Hi,
yes of course, if you want to consilze a MVS you need some more parts:
- SCART jack oder DIN jack to connect the MVS the your TV
- jack for the Power supply
- power switch to turn the MVS on/off
- D-SUB 15 jacks to connect controllers to your MVS
- jamma connector (you could connect the cables directly to the Jamma Pins but using a connector would be a "cleaner" way)
- momentary push button for entering the test mode
- 180 ohms resistor to lower the 5V line at the output
- for the MV-1FZ(S) the stereo pcb will be ok but for a MV-1C another solution for an amped stereo signal ist needed (using an IC etc)
BTW: you can find plenty of information at the internet (here for example)
yes of course, if you want to consilze a MVS you need some more parts:
- SCART jack oder DIN jack to connect the MVS the your TV
- jack for the Power supply
- power switch to turn the MVS on/off
- D-SUB 15 jacks to connect controllers to your MVS
- jamma connector (you could connect the cables directly to the Jamma Pins but using a connector would be a "cleaner" way)
- momentary push button for entering the test mode
- 180 ohms resistor to lower the 5V line at the output
- for the MV-1FZ(S) the stereo pcb will be ok but for a MV-1C another solution for an amped stereo signal ist needed (using an IC etc)
BTW: you can find plenty of information at the internet (here for example)
