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Just received a Vewlix F and it's in great shape but I'd love to make it perfect. Here are photos of all the problems that jump out at me.

The top white plastic panel on the main unit is slightly yellow, especially its top surface. Any way to fix that? Do replacement top panels come up for sale very often?
vewlix01.jpg

Scuffed decal:
vewlix02.jpg

Scuffed black metal:
vewlix03.jpg

Top not fully seated on both sides. Maybe this is an easy fix but maybe the top was swapped for an incompatible one or there is some other problem? How should I go about fixing this?
vewlix04.jpg

Scuffed black metal:
vewlix05.jpg

Broken coin return? There must be some part missing there?
vewlix06.jpg

Is this big empty hole under the control panel and in the main unit just for the wiring harness and the very small coin slot or is anything missing there?
vewlix10.jpg

Control panel scuffed and marked white plastic:
vewlix07.jpg

Control panel marked white plastic:
vewlix08.jpg

Control panel top surface light scratches:
vewlix09.jpg

Any suggestions for these things?

What are the best materials and substances for cleaning the plastic and metal that won't mess them up?
 
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I read that the wei-ya PSU doesn't work well with 120v. Is that what I have here?
vewlix11.jpg

Maybe an audio amplifier:
vewlix13.jpg

Electrical noise filter I think:
vewlix12.jpg

Control panel:
vewlix14.jpg

JVS I/O board. The 1P harness is connected in the top left. I'd like to get a 2 player control panel. Do they come with the harness for the 2P pins? I don't see one hanging around.
vewlix15.jpg

The monitor looks tough to access so here is the easily accessible part:
vewlix16.jpg

See anything missing?

Anything I should check on?

I'm learning that Taito has a lot of replacement parts for these although they're expensive. Does Taito still sell brand new complete Vewlix units?
 

ABTmRw

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Most used Vewlix cabs won't look 'new' unless you put a LOT of TIME and MONEY into them. For everything you posted, everything looks pretty normal for a used Vewlix, the Vewlix F I got was pretty much like yours. It does look like you have only half the coin mechanism.

Here's the restoration project I did. Could come in useful:

Vewlix F Restoration COMPLETE!

For the time being Taito does not appear to be making new Vewlix cabs.

This is the dissasembly guide used by a lot of people (the links are near the bottom):

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Taito_Vewlix
 
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Bluetear

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Looks like the monitor PSU and the audio amp (the two psus on the bottom wood piece). No wei-ya at all. No psu for games for that matter, you can plug in something with an internal psu like a Taito typeX or x2, or else you will have to install a new psu (I recommend http://solid-orange.com/1593)
I agree the Lindbergh Sun PSUs are great and second the recommendation. Thanks for the heads up on the awesome upgrade and the original write-up, @twistedsymphony!

Good luck, @arcadeprojectsrocks. Cab looks to be in pretty decent shape all things considered. I'm sure it'll look awesome when you're done with the upgrades.
 
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Thanks for your responses. Here are my main concerns:

I was thinking of getting an exA-Arcadia for this which has its own power supply, but how is the JVS I/O board powered? Should there be a power supply for it that's missing?

Can anyone point me to a photo of what the coin mech should look like?

I'm concerned about that top panel being unseated on both sides. Any tips there?

Does anyone in central or southern California work on these to make them awesome?
 

rewrite

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but how is the JVS I/O board powered?
It's powered by the same PSU you have in the bottom of the cab that powers the lights etc. Turn on your cab, pop open the CP and the lights on your I/O should light up.

You don't have the Wei-ya or any other JVS PSU (and in turn, no way to power say a Naomi or System2x6). exa or a TTX2 or something that has its own PSU will work fine.
I'm concerned about that top panel being unseated on both sides. Any tips there?
Unscrew things part way, adjust, screw them back together. Vewlixes are very jankily put together in a way. All of the side and top white panels and the silver accents can be adjusted up/down/back/forth a few mm, so you can end up with gaps in weird places depending on how they're situated when you screw them down entirely.

That being said, there's really not anything to be worried about.

Does anyone in central or southern California work on these to make them awesome?
It's already awesome. So that part's done. If you need any specific help beyond what the forum can handle, and you're semi-local to Riverside, let me know.
 
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I'm trying to figure out how the control panel connects to the main unit. It looks like there are only 7 wires to make that connection which doesn't seem like enough.

Here you can see the only harness in the main unit that looks capable of stringing up through the hole that connects to the control panel:
vewlix17.jpg

It has space for 8 pins:
vewlix18.jpg

Here you can see the 8-pin harness in the control panel:
vewlix19.jpg

Although it only has 7 attached wires:
vewlix20.jpg

How does your Vewlix make this connection? Is it just 7 wires like this?
 

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You should also have a 4 pin? Cable that plugs into the I/O to power it as well as the USB looking cable that plugs into your I/O and JVS device.
 
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Just went over everything again and feeling much more acquainted now. For making the connection between the main unit and control panel I have the 8-pin "C" harness which leads into the JVS, a 4-pin "P" harness which must power the JVS, and a 2-pin "X" harness which must power the light. Is that everything besides USB for the connection between main unit and control panel?

Do I just need a regular USB cable for JVS output?

Here's a full shot of my coin mech. Does anyone have a photo of what it should look like? I don't have the right coins to test it with yet but it seems like something is missing from the coin release at least.
vewlix21.jpg

Any idea what was here?
vewlix22.jpg

Any idea what was here?
vewlix23.jpg

Any idea on this hole in the back along the floor?
vewlix24.jpg

FWIW Taito says they can make a new Vewlix batch for a 50 piece minimum order.
 

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You don't have a coin mech. It's missing.

Second Pic clean spot in the dust is where the WeiYa goes.

Third Pic behind the test panel is I believe where part of the jamma kit mounts (there's a spot on the opposite side for the scaler).
 
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I have a Suzo Happ $0.25 coin mech so I installed it:
vewlix25.jpg

but it just slides back out:
vewlix26.jpg

and it doesn't look like the coin slots are lined up even with the mech pushed all the way back:
vewlix27.jpg

Is this an incompatibility and I should just get the AD-81P?

I figured out why the top white plastic won't seat all the way. The metal that it sits on is bent upward:
vewlix28.jpg

Other side also bent upward:
vewlix29.jpg

This would be easy to fix with some gentle but heavy hammer work but I don't want to mess up the threads. Any tips?

It's easier to see the yellowing of the top white plastic with it removed:
vewlix30.jpg

Other side not quite as yellow:
vewlix31.jpg

Is there a way to turn it white again?

Some good news. I attached the control panel and connected the harnesses and there is a light in the control panel, a string of lights on top of the main unit, the monitor turns on and says NO SIGNAL, and there is a red LED on the JVS board:
vewlix32.jpg

Does that look good for the JVS board?

Should anything else be lit up when powered on?
 

adgenet

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but it just slides back out:
You're missing a retaining piece and screw.
The metal bracket holds the mechanism in place, and the screw holds the retaining bracket to the frame that houses the coin mech.
You could probably create one easily by drilling holes in a piece of scrap metal or plastic.
_MG_8776.jpg


Also, for your plastic coin chute alignment issue, look at it and you will see that the holes are slotted.
You can loosen the screws and move the plastic around so that it aligns with your mechanism.
 

adgenet

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Those two won't work.
What you need is simply a small flat piece of metal with 2 holes in it.
If you have a drill, you can make it out of anything.
Even a wooden popsicle stick should do the job.
Alternatively,I haven't tried, but I also feel like you could unscrew those locating posts from the mechanism itself, and replace it with a screw and washer instead of trying to fabricate a bracket.
 
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I'd love to find the original bracket for sale but I love your screw and washer idea almost as much. I'll ask Suzo Happ for the thread spec.

Has anyone come up with even a partial list of Vewlix fastener specs? I seem to be missing quite a bit.
 

adgenet

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Most of the fasteners are documented in the manual available online.
You could spend a small fortune buying them all from Taito directly too with the part numbers if you're made of money.

Anyway, scroll down here for the one for the Vewlix L: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Taito_Vewlix
Part 3 of the manual is probably what you want to look at first.
The Vewlix F manual is on that site too but the scan is blurry.
 
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