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Nanao MS8-26SU

biggestsonicfan

biggestsonicfan

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I'm experiencing a slight issue with my monitor, which is from a Virtua Fighter 1 cab.

IMG_3652 (Medium).JPG

There is significant folding at the top of the monitor.


IMG_3666 (Medium).JPG

Vertical adjusted to the point where there is no longer any folding, it seems that I lose a good portion of displayed game space, with black bars on the top and bottom (no horizontal adjustment has been made).

I plan to recap this anyway, but would recapping fix this?

Also, I am unsure how to pull the PCB out. It appears to have two screw holding it in and then slides out of a holder, but some of the parts appear to be directly soldered to the CRT tube, so the PCB can not be removed without removing the entire CRT bracket housing and tube with it.

Any advice?
 
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Recapping will fix the vertical foldover.

biggestsonicfan said:
Also, I am unsure how to pull the PCB out. It appears to have two screw holding it in and then slides out of a holder, but some of the parts appear to be directly soldered to the CRT tube, so the PCB can not be removed without removing the entire CRT bracket housing and tube with it.
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Everything should unplug, nothing is soldered. From the cab you have to disconnect the power and video input connectors and the connector for the demag button. From the monitor you have to remove the anode (remember to discharge properly, as not all MS8-26 are auto-discharging), the yoke connector, the ground connector from the neck board and the demag coil.

However, personally I would just pull out the whole monitor. It's honestly quicker that way. Remove the four M10 nuts, disconnect power, video and demag connectors and pull it out.
 
I finally got the monitor out to identify it properly and it must have self-discharged (RIP $30 in gloves and alligator clips). Cleaning off the sticker revealed that the certification sticker’s ink wipes right off... I am bad at this refurbishing thing... Anyway, I bought a new cap kit and flyback converter here

IMG_E4699 (Medium).JPG
 
rewrite said:
biggestsonicfan said:
(RIP $30 in gloves and alligator clips)
Click to expand...
You'll need them in the future, whether it's this monitor when you're pulling it in and out to test, or another monitor down the line. Tools are never RIP $.
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I think I'm done after this one cab referb. It's running me down financially and emotionally. I'm not even sure I'll enjoy it once it's done because it's a stand-up and I can't stand up for long periods of time.

The sticker says:
CERTIFICATION: Product complies with applicable DHHS standards under the radiation control for health and safety act of 1968. 05D064441
 
DecepticonZero said:
You're gonna wanna discharge that guy again before you reconnect that anode. I speak from experience.
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God, I've done this a couple times... Discharge the tube, wait ten, do it again.... I got bit by a 33 a couple months back and got to remember just how fun these can be..

biggestsonicfan said:
I think I'm done after this one cab referb. It's running me down financially and emotionally. I'm not even sure I'll enjoy it once it's done because it's a stand-up and I can't stand up for long periods of time.
Click to expand...
Then stop, and do something else for a month and come back. It's never worth trucking through if it's affecting your happiness with it. I /loathed/ my Cute for a few years because of all the BS I had to deal with getting it. And that sucks, you know? Because these things should feel rewarding, and be a triumph. Put it aside and do it later, you'll be happier in the long run.

And that just means you need to buy taller stools than most of us :)
 
DecepticonZero said:
You're gonna wanna discharge that guy again before you reconnect that anode. I speak from experience.
Click to expand...
Oh god, what does that mean? I couldn't get it to ZAP once so I assumed it was discharged. I put it back in there... did I fuck my monitor or?

ChuChu Flamingo said:
DecepticonZero said:
You're gonna wanna discharge that guy again before you reconnect that anode. I speak from experience.
Click to expand...
Yes. Tl;dr when you discharge a monitor it usually doesn't discharge it fully due to dielectric absorption.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric_absorption
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So I did the thing once, with no zap. Should I do it again?
 
biggestsonicfan said:
did I fuck my monitor or?
Click to expand...
No, it just means that sometimes the tube is not /actually/ discharged fully. Or depending on the environment it can re-charge. So when you go to put it back together you can still shock yourself.
 
rewrite said:
biggestsonicfan said:
did I fuck my monitor or?
Click to expand...
No, it just means that sometimes the tube is not /actually/ discharged fully. Or depending on the environment it can re-charge. So when you go to put it back together you can still shock yourself.
Click to expand...
Oh, okay, thanks. I will give it another go now.

I had it on the cement, alligator clip to the chassis, and poked the screwdriver at it a few times but still nothing... I hope that means it is discharged, lol
 
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Interestingly enough, I had a screen curl issue on a Sanwa 29E31S monitor. nem recommended that I recap it, which I did. Used a kit from arcadepartsandrepair and it didn't fix the issue at all and didn't change a thing. Found out the kit had an incorrect cap :).
 
acblunden2 said:
Interestingly enough, I had a screen curl issue on a Sanwa 29E31S monitor. nem recommended that I recap it, which I did. Used a kit from arcadepartsandrepair and it didn't fix the issue at all and didn't change a thing. Found out the kit had an incorrect cap :).
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As if this didn't drive the point home further, LOL! I've sent a request to have the whole order cancelled and will be doing a cap inventory manually as stated in the other thread :D
 
For your Wells Gardner's, Electrohome's, Neo-tec's, and US domestic monitors, go to arcadepartsandrepair all day for cap kits. For your Japanese displays, your Toshiba's, Nanao's Sanwa's, go the DIY route.
 
The MS8-26SU was widely used in the US in a number of cabinets. I wouldn't worry about getting the wrong caps in a kit at this point.
 
Alright, so, the entire board is recapped. I cleaned the hell out of this monitor. Like, there was a tube that I thought was solid black on it, but turned out to be part of the glass that I could see through. While I didn't degrime it 100% because it might damage it more than it would help it, the monitor is back together and I will be testing it this morning.

Though, I have a question: What are the pots on the back of the flyback? They might have been slightly altered during cleaning and I'd like to know what they do.

EDIT: According to the manual they are "FOCUS" and "SCREEN"
 
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Parts of the tube that you think are dirty might be a layer of aquadag. You don't want to remove that unless you want a light show every time you turn your monitor on.

Focus adjusts the sharpness. Screen adjust the brightness. You'll want to turn the monitor on with no game in it and turn the screen knob until the horizontal lines on the monitor just disappear. Once you dial those two in they are "set it and forget it" knobs. MS8-26SU has a second brightness pot on the chassis if you need to brighten things up a bit.
 
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DecepticonZero said:
Parts of the tube that you think are dirty might be a layer of aquadag. You don't want to remove that unless you want a light show every time you turn your monitor on.
Click to expand...
Oh my. In my ignorance I may have apparently, royally, fucked myself... see below...


Well, this is what I get now. Am I screwed? FIXED BY MOVING THE FLYBACK TRANSFORMER WIRE AWAY FROM OTHER WIRES/COMPONENTS

Looking at the picture I posted earlier as well as these two photos
IMG_4701 (Medium).JPG


I really can't say that this part of the CRT had aquadag on it. It all smelt and felt like dust. Though it did turn anything I wiped on it completely black... I don't know...

The neck of the tube that connects to the board, however, did have a thick coating on it that when wiped away became clear...

Unsure if that's related to my current issue, however, as it appears that it's just noise getting into my board somehow. Most likely... ugh... a cap...

EDIT: The "Detail Adjustment" section of the manual mentions this:
chrome_X4mLE2gbXy.png


Those CP magnets around the neck did alter slightly in the cleaning. Is it these that need adjustment? I'm doubting it though.

EDIT2: Comparing my cap list with that of a cap list arcade-museum (and a separate post here which contains an identical cap list except it includes C905) and there are discrepancies (keep in mine I logged each cap after desoldering it with the values listed on the cap itself):

Cap [My Data] (Their data)
  • C906 [160V 100uF] (100uf 200V)
  • C912 & C913 [16v 220uF] (220uf 35V)
  • C422 [16v 470uF] (470uf 50V)
  • C454 [16v 47uF] (47uf 50V)
  • C908 [16v 47uF] (47uf 25V)
  • C905 [200wv 680uF] (N/A not listed)
  • C909 [250v 47uF] (22uf 160V)
  • C433 [50v 10uF] (10uf 25V)
  • C452 [50v 1uF] (1uf 100V)
  • C437 [50v 220uF] (120uf 50V)
  • C332 [160v 10uF] (10uf 250V)
That's an awful lot of differences?

EDIT3: HAHA! DISREGARD THE NOISE!
So apparently if your flyback transformer's cable is too close to other cables, it causes the noise!
Before:74337088_10157066490016715_1662039991502503936_n.jpg
After: 74214400_10157066525641715_288517460355710976_n.jpg
 

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