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Neopass module for NeoGeo AES : the easy way to perform AES video bypass :-)

Nic034

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Hello guys,

Here’s a small French project that finally came to life after several months of intense dev/testing !
Thanks to everyone who contributed with their console and thanks to my personal consoles 😂

The Neopass project was originally created for my personal needs. The goal of the Neopass projects is to make the AES bypass process more reliable, cleaner, faster, and to achieve optimal video performances output quality once the mod is done. Everyone should be able to perform a bypass easily, with fewer wires, reliable components, and excellent results (no more dangling resistors or forgotten capacitors!).
Original French thread here : https://www.neogeo-system.com/t15815-module-neopass-le-rgb-by-pass-aes-simplifie

Also providing the best image for the best possible experience on the AES plateform is for me an evidence : the community, like myself, is demanding, so the challenge is a big one! 😎😂

Neopass module for NeoGeo AES, Awaken the beast !
the shop : http://www.nic034.fr

neopass-dog-mini.jpg


Note : This project doesn’t claim to be the absolute best, but it definitely holds its own. The result depends a lot on the installation quality: the image becomes noticeably sharper and outstanding, colors are deeper and more vivid, and the signal coming out of the PCB is highly stable ensuring great compatibility with various display devices. Choosing to follow the original datasheets was, in my opinion, the best way to respect SNK’s work and to achieve an image as faithful as possible to the original intended output without relying on composite video.

From a technical perspective, I chose to keep the capacitors on the RGB lines, in accordance with the CXA1145p datasheet (which recommend them to eliminate the DC offset). For now, I’m using the sync output of the encoder (rather than the input) which do finally the best job. The composite video signals is no more present after modification.

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Component values for versions 3-3/3-4:
  • RGB lines: 143Ω resistors 0805 (1% tolerance or better), tantalum capacitors (Case D 7343) rated at 6.3V 470μF.
  • Sync line (taken from the encoder’s sync output): 75Ω resistor and a 6.3V 470μF tantalum capacitor (Case D 7343).
  • These versions provide both composite sync and clean sync, and I’ve ensured both outputs now carry the same signal.
Component values for versions 3-5/3-6:
  • RGB lines: 150Ω resistors 0805 (1% tolerance or better), tantalum capacitors (Case D 7343) rated at 6.3V 470μF.
  • Sync line (also taken from the encoder’s sync output): 75Ω resistor and a 6.3V 470μF tantalum capacitor (Case D 7343).
  • These versions originally only had composite sync, so the visual improvement is significant—sharper image, less blur, etc.
The choice of tantalum capacitors (not the cheapest one) help increase the lifespan of the pcb circuitry and reduce space usage when installing the mod onto the motherboard. I did some tests with solid and electrolytic capacitors, but I found their overall footprint too large, which makes the PCB installation more difficult. The PCB has been tested on over 20 consoles with no side effects and with various output devices: CRT TVs, LCD TVs, Retrotink 4K upscalers, PVMs, etc.

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The installation procedure for the kit is currently available at the bottom of the shop page (n00b tested and validated). In short: you remove the original capacitors and resistors on the output lines, place the PCB according to your console version, and finish by connecting the sync power wire. The project is currently powered using EasyEDA Pro through JLCPCB/LCSC, and it is not open-source at the moment. The chosen thickness for the double-layer PCB is 0.8 mm. I do have a small stock available if you’re interested and would like to try it out (I’ve set up a small shop for that purpose). delivery worldwide using tracking letter is support (including japan) :-)

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on the stage :

Gw3Uk3CXUAAeHrY.jpg


Video sample (iPhone picture) : https://streamable.com/2x1njy

3-5/3-6 version

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Screenshot_1.png


3-3/3-4 version :

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Screenshot_3.png


Photo of an LCD TV with or without upscaler, taken with a mobile phone.

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Just wanted to share my experience as one of the beta testers: I’ve simply never seen such a good image on the Neo Geo before even with the bypass I had installed before by a professional. The picture quality is truly outstanding, and the installation was surprisingly easy — even for a beginner like me! Installed it on two of my Neo Geo 3-5 boards, and everything works perfectly.

GG, Nico!
 
Hey Nico, nice work! Just placed an order for two.
Excited to get them installed. Appreciate it!
 
Hello @Solid_Snake !

Thanks a lot for support, successfully receive the orders and will be sent tomorrow ! Can can find the complete installation process on a the shop page on the bottom (link)

Best
Nicolas
 
New orders from the USA, Japan, and Germany — thank you for your help and support !
Shop direct link to order : www.nic034.fr

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or suggestions :)
 
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Added on stage picture and dev board pcb picture.
Have a nice day :)
 
Had some free time and installed the neopass on my third AES (the boxed and most valuable one I have), took me around 25min and picture looks outstanding ! Good job Nico !
(Photo taken by phone attached )
 

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Some resulting photos from the installation of a Neopass on a revision 3-4 (gladmort)

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Does this kit make the AES RGB only or does it also preserve composite?

EDIT: Never mind, I took a peek at the instructions and first line indicates it does!

What, if anything, makes your method better than this one?

https://www.retrosix.wiki/rgb-voltage-levels-neo-geo-aes

I'm considering doing this finally to my AES, but was going to go with the linked method as it will also preserve my composite, but I'm open to your item if there is a better outcome.
 
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Does this kit make the AES RGB only or does it also preserve composite?

EDIT: Never mind, I took a peek at the instructions and first line indicates it does!

What, if anything, makes your method better than this one?

https://www.retrosix.wiki/rgb-voltage-levels-neo-geo-aes

I'm considering doing this finally to my AES, but was going to go with the linked method as it will also preserve my composite, but I'm open to your item if there is a better outcome.
Good question :-)

If you use a 3-5,3-6 : the sync signal is not routed at all from encoder CXA1145p (whatever you replace in resistor value) on the stock console, and the encoder degrade the signal quality when buffering RGB’s (wash colors and so). The output sync is a composite signal routed instead for compatibity mesures which is bad, and degrade the sharpness and global image quality .Output is not optimal at all for these one..

If you use a 3-3/3-4 : it’s a bit better the sync signal is routed in stock console from encoder, but the encoder degrade the signal quality when buffering (wash colors and so). Output is not optimal

I’ve never tried this method, even though I know the author by sight. I can only speak about what I’ve tested :-)

Thanks for this info
 
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Hello

I haven’t planned composite support in the project, so the kit disable it on sync pinout. but the signal is still available on pin 20 of the CXA1145P if you want to mod the AV output ;-)
 
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I just wanted to share my experience — Nico delivers outstanding work! Completely trustworthy and highly skilled. If you want to unlock the full potential of your favorite console, don’t hesitate — place your order today
 
I sometimes run into edge cases where I need composite out, so would love a version of this that would keep composite output intact.

If the earlier comment about it still being available on the CXA chip means I can just run a wire (presumably with a cap/resistor on it?) to the multiout to restore it, that works for me.
 
I sometimes run into edge cases where I need composite out, so would love a version of this that would keep composite output intact.

If the earlier comment about it still being available on the CXA chip means I can just run a wire (presumably with a cap/resistor on it?) to the multiout to restore it, that works for me.
Not directly, to be more precise for the composite subject :

- if you use this kit, you will need to cut the av pin 3 trace and bridge av pin 3 to cxa1145p pin 20 (yep with 75ohms and 470uf caps + console side). The av pin 3 and av pin 7 on the av output are NOT connected the same way on the 3-3/3-4 and the 3-5/3-6 version.

To avoid cutting trace on console, and cutting trace on neopass, you need to have a 3-3/3-4 version only. The neopass 3-3/3-4 version have a little trace between « SO pads » to output sync on both av pin 3 and av pin 7. the xca sync pin 11 goes to the first one SO pad on top (for av pin 7 I think id remember correctly)

Note : the majority of cables on the market are wired to av pin 7; av pin 3 is, in my experience, rarely used (if at all)

On 3-3/3-4, the pin 3 is « connected » to cxa pin 20, the pin 7 is connected to cxa pin 11. (connexted thru resistors and caps)

On 3-5/3-6, the pin 3 and the pin 7 are bridged and connected to cxa pin 20 only (composite video)

Keep in mind that if you want to force composite on the cable you need pin 3 for video if you modify your console.

Normally, isolating pin 3 should be enough, but it also depends on the composite cable used afterward (av pin 3 or av pin 7?). If you try this, let us know how it goes ;-)

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I can’t help but recommend, to anyone interested in @Nic034 ’s product, to support this project: it’s a small modkit that greatly simplifies the process and ensures a fantastic image quality result. There are many ways to carry out this operation, but this one—both on paper and in practice—is very likely the best.
 
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