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FS (never mind): my CPS2 Street Fighter Zero 2 (jp) for your suicided CPS2 board (or I can just buy your dead board)...

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Kujako

Kujako

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Doing the Darksoft multi kit CPS2 thing. Would hate to kill my stock Street Fighter Zero 2 Japan board to do it, so looking to trade it for a suicided board (and maybe a sandwich) or to buy a board to use. Needs to be version 7 and clean (no corrosion etc). Looking for reasonable offers.
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why do you think you have to kill a b board for the multi? Is there an old video that is still pinned somewhere that says so, or some other reference material?

Any b board works and the whole mod is reversible if you want. You can load original keys again. http://arcadehacker.blogspot.com/2016/09/capcom-cps2-security-programming-guide.html?m=1

Not stopping you from trading, someone may well want this original board. It’s just weird how many people are discussing killing boards recently. This is old news by now...

And either way do that board a favor and replace the battery or install an infinikey before it leaks. Leaking original batteries... that’s actually how B boards get “killed” now!

also don’t trade for a suicided board. You don’t know if it’s actually suicided or just broken. Use a working board for the multi.
 
I committed a cps2 massacre the other day, over 20 boards lol. Well they all have inifikeys now :D
 
ekorz said:
why do you think you have to kill a b board for the multi? Is there an old video that is still pinned somewhere that says so, or some other reference material?

Any b board works and the whole mod is reversible if you want. You can load original keys again. http://arcadehacker.blogspot.com/2016/09/capcom-cps2-security-programming-guide.html?m=1

Not stopping you from trading, someone may well want this original board. It’s just weird how many people are discussing killing boards recently. This is old news by now...

And either way do that board a favor and replace the battery or install an infinikey before it leaks. Leaking original batteries... that’s actually how B boards get “killed” now!

also don’t trade for a suicided board. You don’t know if it’s actually suicided or just broken. Use a working board for the multi.
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Fair enough... I'm not totally up on all the CPS2 de-phoenixing etc folks are doing these days. I guess I don't have a major issue with using the board I have for the multi kit (which I did manage to find an order), but it just feels weird to me. I'll get over it. I guess a board in hand is as good a place to work from as any other. I'll need to desolder and break the traces on some of the jumpers to get it ready, but that's fairly minor. What I may do is burn some phoenix roms and see if I can get that to work before moving onto the multi kit.
 
I don’t think you need to touch the jumpers.

I’m not up on which games are rare or desirable so maybe a collector wants this one. But I’m encouraging you to trade for a working game so you’re not going through the headache of wondering why the board doesn’t work (if it was given to you as “suicided”)
 
ekorz said:
I don’t think you need to touch the jumpers.

I’m not up on which games are rare or desirable so maybe a collector wants this one. But I’m encouraging you to trade for a working game so you’re not going through the headache of wondering why the board doesn’t work (if it was given to you as “suicided”)
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Setup/install instructions say to use a specific jumper combination which does not match the one I have (shrug). But yeah, if someone has a more common/less desirable board to trade I'd take that route as well. The only reason I would put this board at a higher premium than some others is the dedicated graphics memory daughter board.
 
One of the first videos I found when researching cps2 multi was this one:


says in the video you have to kill a board and discusses the controversy around that
 
ekorz said:
iomF3t4_d.jpg



CPS2 Multikit: Instructions and videos

first post instructions v3.2 say no jumper adjustment is required. Where do you see that it’s required? A game may have them in a different order but the pairing is correct and should work iirc.
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Good to know! Thanks. Still going over what is and is not still needed in terms of wiring etc. Have a "G" PAL included in my kit order to replace my "D" and I have a revision 7 board so shouldn't need to do anything there.
 
With a rev 7 you should just be able to install a G pal, and it’s already socketed so the swap takes seconds. Key writing wires optional but recommended. There’s a nice adapter if you aren’t confident in your soldering.

https://arthrimus.com/product/cps2-multi-kit-key-writing-quick-solder-board/

Also. Yeah. cut the battery and bridge the pins on the exc5 cap nearby to “kill” it RIP!
 
ekorz said:
With a rev 7 you should just be able to install a G pal, and it’s already socketed so the swap takes seconds. Key writing wires optional but recommended. There’s a nice adapter if you aren’t confident in your soldering.

https://arthrimus.com/product/cps2-multi-kit-key-writing-quick-solder-board/

Also. Yeah. cut the battery and bridge the pins on the exc5 cap nearby to “kill” it RIP!
Click to expand...
I'm reasonably good at soldering, but I'm also very lazy. So thanks for the link to the wiring kit, looks like a very nice solution.
 
Wraith said:
One of the first videos I found when researching cps2 multi was this one:


says in the video you have to kill a board and discusses the controversy around that
Click to expand...
Old video, but still pops up in a lot of searches, someone reach out to the this guy to update or remove.
 
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