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Arthrimus

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I don't care that Gamecube used a DAC and Genesis 2 uses caps/resistors, the lesion that we ALL should have learned from this is DONT DO THAT.
Proper = At output the signal is set, the device complete, the cables to connect it are just dumb copper that merely transport a signal (not alter it).
That is literally just your opinion. The only thing that matters is that the signal at the end of the SCART connector is correct. How it get's that way is pretty much irrelevant. You'd have a point if these consoles had female SCART plugs on the back and you were trying to connect them with a simple male to male SCART connector, but that's not how it works.
That way no one is bound to using any specific cabling, or getting incorrect values if they decide to hook up directly.
Right, so if someone tries to hook it up incorrectly it won't work correctly. That's true for almost anything.
Many many different RGB projects use 8pin mini din now (etim's RGB NES kit maybe most famously) so purchasing these SCART cables is easy/cheap.
I dare say just as common, if not more so today than the Genesis 2 SCART cable. You'd also have the option of using this...
That is laughable. If you want to buy a cable from boutique custom cable manufacturers that only take orders once every six months then sure you can get 8 PIN mini DIN SCART cables, but to suggest that 8 PIN mini DIN cables are easier to get than the nearly ubiquitous Genesis 2 cable is a joke. Not to mention the special variants like the Rad2X cable and the HD Retrovision Component Cables. This offers you a ton of options as far as cable and scaler selection.
I don't understand in respect to this device why that GEN2 cable is an easier/better option?
IE the HD15 port must be pushing proper SCART values already, so you'll take that perfectly fine signal (that you would only need to add a 8pin mini din) and further skew it to get what would be proper values for the 9pin mini din when used with a Gen2 SCART cable?
God why?
The HD15 is not pushing SCART values, it is DC coupled RGB which is what a a VGA equipped monitor like the stock Vewlix monitor expects to see. SCART is AC coupled, and to get AC coupled video you either need capacitors inline in the SCART cable or on the PCB. It does not matter which way you do this as long as it's done. No additional components are needed on the PCB to generate the signal for the 9 pin mini din, it comes directly off the RGB amp.
 

jassin000

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the HD15 is not pushing SCART values, it is DC coupled RGB which is what a a VGA equipped monitor like the stock Vewlix monitor expects to see.
So its sending separate H and V syncs? I've never attempted to feed composite sync via VGA (pin13) to the Vewlix stock monitor, I just assumed this would NOT work.
Anyway IF you ARE sending separate H and V syncs, you can forget about supporting Taito F3 on a OSSC... It must be unaltered/unbuffered TTL c-sync or OSSC won't lock it.

I figured the HD15 port was included to feed an OSSC, proofing it against the F3 issue (not to drive a VGA monitor directly).
The 9 pin to feed the SCART port of an OSSC (or I guess other/lesser scaler/SCART based devices).
 
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DoktorSleepless

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The HD15 is not pushing SCART values, it is DC coupled RGB which is what a a VGA equipped monitor like the stock Vewlix monitor expects to see.
Let me make sure I got this right: If I were to plug this board into, say, a CPS2, and then plug my stock Vewlix monitor into the HD15 port on the board, I'd get a usable signal? If so, my concerns are addressed. I don't need no fancy scaler. The fewer things I have to have in my cabinet just to get it up and running, the better.
 

randomdoohickey

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The main change is that I expanded the size of the PCB a bit to make room for a built in -5V regulator, and cleaned up the audio and video routing significantly.

Nice.

Since I had extra space on the board I decided to also add a 20 pin ATX power connector for those who may not have a JVS power supply in their cabinets.

Keep in mind that PC PSUs with the classic ATX 20-pin motherboard connector are rapidly vanishing in favor of 24-pin. Those old split clip-together 20+4 motherboard connectors you used to see have largely disappeared in favor of a one-piece 24-pin that needs an extra adapter for 20-pin (that won't come with the PSU). Modern ATX, SFX, Flex ATX, and TFX are all like this.

I also added a switch for button 6 on the JAMMA edge in case anyone wants to run CHAMMA style boards.
Can you make this for switching 4+5+6? Some CPS2 game (and others?) get confused seeing buttons 4+5 come from both the JAMMA edge and the kick harness at the same time.
 
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Arthrimus

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So its sending separate H and V syncs? I've never attempted to feed composite sync via VGA (pin13) to the Vewlix stock monitor, I just assumed this would NOT work.
Anyway IF you ARE sending separate H and V syncs, you can forget about supporting Taito F3 on a OSSC... It must be unaltered/unbuffered TTL c-sync or OSSC won't lock it.
It's TTL Csync passed directly from the JAMMA connector to the video outputs. It's not buffered or split in any way. It does work on a Vewlix Daimond Blue monitor, as well as the Toshiba PF tube in my New Net City. I can't say for sure about other monitors outside of the ones I have tested, but as I understand it it's pretty common for multisync arcade monitors to accept Csync.

Let me make sure I got this right: If I were to plug this board into, say, a CPS2, and then plug my stock Vewlix monitor into the HD15 port on the board, I'd get a usable signal? If so, my concerns are addressed. I don't need no fancy scaler. The fewer things I have to have in my cabinet just to get it up and running, the better.
If you have a Vewlix monitor that supports 240p then yes, you should be able to plug it right in. It's not the prettiest scaling, but if you're not after razor sharp pixels then it will get the job done.
Keep in mind that PC PSUs with the classic ATX 20-pin motherboard connector are rapidly vanishing in favor of 24-pin. Those old split clip-together 20+4 motherboard connectors you used to see have largely disappeared in favor of a one-piece 24-pin that needs an extra adapter for 20-pin (that won't come with the PSU). Modern ATX, SFX, Flex ATX, and TFX are all like this.
Really? Wow, I haven't bought a power supply in a few years, but I had no idea that the 20+4 connector was no longer a thing.
Can you make this for switching 4+5+6? Some CPS2 game (and others?) get confused seeing buttons 4+5 come from both the JAMMA edge and the kick harness at the same time.
It already had 4 and 5. 6 Was the new addition with this revision.
 

jassin000

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If you have a Vewlix monitor that supports 240p then yes
We don't have a database of this...
Even myself, who has personally owned 4 different stock Vewlix monitors NEVER tested a single one for 240p native support.

Really if you ask yourself this one simple question:
Hey why would the official Taito Vewlix JAMMA kit come with a scaler PCB IF the majority of the monitor family natively supported it?
Get the picture? *cough*they dont'*cough*
 

Arthrimus

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We don't have a database of this...
Even myself, who has personally owned 4 different stock Vewlix monitors NEVER tested a single one for 240p native support.

Really if you ask yourself this one simple question:
Hey why would the official Taito Vewlix JAMMA kit come with a scaler PCB IF the majority of the monitor family natively supported it?
Get the picture? *cough*they dont'*cough*
I didn't claim that they did. I have a Diamond Blue and it's monitor accepts 15khz directly through the HD15, that is all I said. If any of the other Vewlix monitors can accept 15khz directly then they will work also, that is a statement of fact.
 

Niko

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...I have a Diamond Blue and it's monitor accepts 15khz directly through the HD15...
Oh snap! For real? That's awesome! I have two blue diamonds, I just assumed they wouldn't accept anything below 480p. :thumbsup:

I'm so ready for this kit!
 

Pega$u$

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Any idea what the price for these will go for or at least an estimate?
 

nem

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Hey why would the official Taito Vewlix JAMMA kit come with a scaler PCB IF the majority of the monitor family natively supported it?

The jamma kit came out when the Vewlix F/C were the only models available.
 

jbrlll

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my AMI is wet...how do I get her on this list?
 

jbrlll

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Can we just all pull some funds together and get jassin000 laid and move on?
 

randomdoohickey

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In an ideal world, this box will be plug-and-play with the Taito F3 + OSSC combo (or certain other problem PCB / capture card / monitor combos), which, pretty sure, won't work without further sync processing. Both @RGB and @invzim seem to have this figured out in the latest reversions of the HAS and Tri-Sync Helper, so you might want to ping them about sync handling. Putting in a more modern HD-compatible C-sync -> HV-sync converter like the Renesas ISL59885 may be all that's needed?

Any downside to making the in-cabinet HD15/DE15 fixed HV-sync if it fixes things like the F3? Every user for this would be a tri-sync CRT or flat panel, I'd imagine.

Would it be possible to make the A/V output a splitter for capture or VS cabinet use? I'm thinking VS cabinet style 1-into-2 VGA + RCA splitter.

Basically every non-Framemeister/RetroTINK scaler somebody would want to use in 2021 supports VGA input and there's plenty of VGA capture options from Startech/Micomsoft (read: Yuan), Datapath, Magewell, etc. Those RetroTINK, Micomsoft, and DVDO scalers are limited to a 4:2:2 color pipeline anyways.

I get the appeal of using a Genesis/MD-style A/V connector, but those Genesis to YPbPr cables from HD Retrovision / Retro Gaming Cables run ~$65 USD/ea and only come in 6'/2m form.

I'd also like to see RCA jacks for audio on the output side as it's a more mechanically secure connection and typically the cabinet's default wiring, but that's just me.
 
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Arthrimus

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In an ideal world, this box will be plug-and-play with the Taito F3 + OSSC combo (or certain other problem PCB / capture card / monitor combos), which, pretty sure, won't work without further sync processing. Both @RGB and @invzim seem to have this figured out in the latest reversions of the HAS and Tri-Sync Helper, so you might want to ping them about sync handling. Putting in a more modern HD-compatible C-sync -> HV-sync converter like the Renesas ISL59885 may be all that's needed?

Any downside to making the in-cabinet HD15/DE15 fixed HV-sync if it fixes things like the F3? Every user for this would be a tri-sync CRT or flat panel, I'd imagine.

How about making the second A/V output on this for capture and/or VS cabinet use? I'm thinking VS cabinet style 1-into-2 VGA + RCA. Basically every non-Framemeister/RetroTINK scaler somebody would want to use in 2021 supports VGA input and there's plenty of VGA capture options from Startech/Micomsoft (read: Yuan), Datapath, Magewell, etc. Those RetroTINK, Micomsoft, and DVDO scalers are limited to a 4:2:2 color pipeline anyways.

I get the appeal of using a Genesis/MD-style A/V connector, but those Genesis to YPbPr cables from HD Retrovision / Retro Gaming Cables run ~$65 USD/ea and only come in 6'/2m form.
I could be wrong about this, but as I understand it the Taito F3 will work with the OSSC through the AV3 port without any sync processing. It seems that processing or buffering the sync usually makes the F3 sync unusable. Unless there have been new developments on the F3 I think the way this is wired as of now is the best option.
 

jassin000

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it seems that processing or buffering the sync usually makes the F3 sync unusable.
100%, you CAN feed AV1 BTW... however this requires modifying the OSSC and enabling the option in the firmware/menu.
This is why I keep a Trisync Helper handy in addition to the Jassifier.
  • TSH TTL sync, Taito F3, OSSC AV3
  • Jassifier 75ohm sync (color levels set to users liking) everything EXECPT F3, OSSC AV1 (zero special "components" cable required). ;)
 
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jassin000

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Can we just all pull some funds together and get jassin000 laid and move on?
How did I miss this ^
No need... I lightened up my perspective/approach to quality.... So the TO lady hooked me up, discount style.
0a873e1d6da0cf2d32f571e955c0f780.jpg
 
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