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Fluffy

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so definatelly use ATF16V8B not ATF16V8C?
16V8B are the ones I used, and didn't have problems with.
When I originally looked at datasheets the major difference seemed to be speed, or various power-save modes. Though there wasn't a good table comparing features, and I had to search for differences. 16V8C should work if you use external pull-ups. Or you could change the PLD source code to hard code the features you want.
 

majorspawn

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16V8B are the ones I used, and didn't have problems with.
When I originally looked at datasheets the major difference seemed to be speed, or various power-save modes. Though there wasn't a good table comparing features, and I had to search for differences. 16V8C should work if you use external pull-ups. Or you could change the PLD source code to hard code the features you want.
thanks for confirming, good to be mindful when ordering parts. Will definitely order everything carefully once you send me the 3 boards on standby
 

GC8TECH

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ATMEL ATF16V8B is what i use with out any issues... or adding the extra 3 x 10K pull up resistors....
 

gigasturtz

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I ordered my parts a while ago but I believe I ordered from the Mouser cart that someone posted here. It may have been updated since but if you ordered from it you should double check with ATF16V8 chip you have.

edit: looking at both carts now it seems they both have the ATF16V8B. It's backordered on Digi-Key and Mouser has about 700 in stock; it seems likely that they were both out and i picked up a substitute when i ordered.
 

Fluffy

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Could be a mistake of whoever picked your order, or whoever stocked the shelves. At least we now have an idea what a potential problem is and how it can be fixed.
 

gigasturtz

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Finished all three builds! Aside from the resistor thing mentioned here the biggest difficulty for me was figuring out what i needed to program on which chips to do what I wanted to, which didn't end up being too difficult once I spent some time reviewing the thread.
 

Nebula

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Hi guys,

Could someone point me up a website or shop to buy those low profile sockets I saw you used for the CHAR board? Those rounded ones that allow the cartridge case be closed without problems.

Thanks in advance.
 

Elfoam

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Using round hole machined sockets for either the eproms or gals isn't the best idea ever if you plan on your boards being reliable.
 

Nebula

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Using round hole machined sockets for either the eproms or gals isn't the best idea ever if you plan on your boards being reliable.
Uhm this is interesting. What's the cause? Do they end up to make poor contacts in the EPROM legs after some time?
 

Nebula

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yeah, I understand it but, how bad is it considering there are also ROHS DIP Sockets with round holes?:

1646050453397.png


Are those also not recomented for EPROMS and GALs?
 

mR_CaESaR

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So these round ones are not recommended? I was going to use them in a test board and/if they would fit with a case.

I purchased the ebay ones, but happy to purchase the normal 42 dip socket ones if they're better for a test board
 

Fluffy

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From what I understand the round pins have some kind of spring contact in the bottom as well?
 

Elfoam

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yeah, I understand it but, how bad is it considering there are also ROHS DIP Sockets with round holes?:

1646050453397.png


Are those also not recomented for EPROMS and GALs?
No they are not for eproms, they are for round pins that go exactly in those round holes.
 
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