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Rockman 2 The Power Fighters

MegaMan

MegaMan

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Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
Hi, I am fairly new to arcades and I recently picked up this Rockman the power battle board from an old friend who has had it in storage for 15 years. He doesn’t even know if it works because he doesn’t have a cabinet and only the B board is there. I was pretty lucky to get this game because I know they are pretty rare. I know a little bit about CPS1 and CPS2 games but I don’t know a lot. How do I know if this board has been tampered with in any way? I like collecting authentic games and have been trying to build an authentic collection of the MegaMan arcade series for about a year and a half. Is this game original, or is it a conversion? I’ve looked at many other CPS2 boards and they all look a little different. Thanks for any help you can give me! Here are some pictures of the game.
371947E8-CAF1-471F-8C0C-0EE67FB96026.jpeg
DC72CBAB-1FD2-4214-BB33-06ECC8DAD5A6.jpeg
 
It is original and with more explanation:
- Graphics Mask ROMs have original silkscreened labeling.
- Set as a PAL E /w original PAL E
- EPROMs have proper Capcom Labeling typed (These can be hand written as well)
- Original battery or replacement battery Capcom used

As far as rarity. I feel that the JP boards are the most common out of the group. Then Asia, US/EU, SA. Talking legit boards only. A lot of SA conversions out there.
 
It's original. You should check the voltage on that battery and replace it as soon as possible regardless of the voltage.
If it's below 3V it's likely the game suicided. It's reversible, don't worry.
If the battery is dead, clip it off. It won't matter for the unsuicide process and it will help avoiding damaging the board if it leaks.
 
The first thing you may want to do (after staring at all that sexy hardware in awe) is get an Infinikey which will allow you to remove the battery from the board. The battery, at any time, may leak and have a disastrous effect.

Your PCB looks great ! All the best
 
evilsim said:
The first thing you may want to do (after staring at all that sexy hardware in awe) is get an Infinikey which will allow you to remove the battery from the board. The battery, at any time, may leak and have a disastrous effect.

Your PCB looks great ! All the best
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the info!
 
ReplicaX said:
It is original and with more explanation:
- Graphics Mask ROMs have original silkscreened labeling.
- Set as a PAL E /w original PAL E
- EPROMs have proper Capcom Labeling typed (These can be hand written as well)
- Original battery or replacement battery Capcom used

As far as rarity. I feel that the JP boards are the most common out of the group. Then Asia, US/EU, SA. Talking legit boards only. A lot of SA conversions out there.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the info. Could you maybe help me with something else? I know someone who has had another game for a while, but I didn’t buy it because I don’t know what the problem is or how to fix it. What do you think the issue is? The audio is good but there is no background. Also how much do you think I should pay for it. Thanks. This is a MegaMan the Power Battle game btw, CPS1.
A8DC20F9-6288-4EB0-9B09-C987DF783099.jpeg
BEC65167-6D14-4B45-A46C-9C89C4862B9C.jpeg
 
MegaMan said:
Thanks a lot for the info. Could you maybe help me with something else? I know someone who has had another game for a while, but I didn’t buy it because I don’t know what the problem is or how to fix it. What do you think the issue is? The audio is good but there is no background. Also how much do you think I should pay for it. Thanks. This is a MegaMan the Power Battle game btw, CPS1.
Click to expand...
Honestly, I can't give you a price. This issue could be one of many fixes, simple or more in-depth. From reseating ROMs, to bad logic, a custom failing, etc.

I'd only recommend someone that has worked on CPS1 or has an electronics background to buy it and only buy it "For Parts" as its not 100% working.

If you just want the game, then I recommend just waiting on one 100% and priced fairly. The Power Battle is a common title on CPS1.
 
evilsim said:
The first thing you may want to do (after staring at all that sexy hardware in awe) is get an Infinikey which will allow you to remove the battery from the board. The battery, at any time, may leak and have a disastrous effect.

Your PCB looks great ! All the best
Click to expand...
Another quick question. What is this test sticker that is close to the serial number? Thanks. I just joined this forum, is there a better way to contact people, like a dm or private message?
6CE412BA-6E23-4096-A4E8-585337E59020.jpeg
 
ic3b4ll said:
It's original. You should check the voltage on that battery and replace it as soon as possible regardless of the voltage.
If it's below 3V it's likely the game suicided. It's reversible, don't worry.
If the battery is dead, clip it off. It won't matter for the unsuicide process and it will help avoiding damaging the board if it leaks.
Click to expand...
I don’t have the game yet, but if it did suicide, how can I unsuicide it and keep it as authentic and original as possible. Thanks
 
Too keep it as close to factory, you replace the battery and perform Arcade Hacker's desuicide process (https://github.com/ArcadeHacker). He was the one who researched it and managed to figure out how to restore the encryption/protection key back into the CPS2 games.
Alternatively, just use an Infinikey. It's easier, I think, and you won't have to worry about the battery anymore.
 
ic3b4ll said:
Too keep it as close to factory, you replace the battery and perform Arcade Hacker's desuicide process (https://github.com/ArcadeHacker). He was the one who researched it and managed to figure out how to restore the encryption/protection key back into the CPS2 games.
Alternatively, just use an Infinikey. It's easier, I think, and you won't have to worry about the battery anymore.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot! I’m having some trouble navigating the website link you gave me. Is there a video I could watch?
 
It's common knowledge, I'm sure many people here can help. I'm in Europe, so it's not really feasible for me to do it for you.
Maybe @ReplicaX can chime in?
 
ic3b4ll said:
It's common knowledge, I'm sure many people here can help. I'm in Europe, so it's not really feasible for me to do it for you.
Maybe @ReplicaX can chime in?
Click to expand...
With my full time job and side local repairs. I just do not have the time to take in others. Plus, I still provide board level repairs for 2 local Ops.

@Mitsurugi-w if I recall did do a revival service at one point. I'd contact him if he has the means to reload keys to put back on battery.

I understand folks that want to keep their pcbs as original as possible. This is just my opinion and experience from repairing so many CPS2 boards. I just cannot trust CR123A Lithium batteries if ppl forget about them and recommend changing them every 3 years, 5yrs max regardless of the device. The original Maxwell Supers Capcom used were decent and most leaks I experienced were due to age (10yrs+) or from a board short / component failure. The most common I see leak and I feel they are subpar specifically, are the Tenergy generic medium blue wrapper with simple black text. Always recommend staying away from those. I feel battery free is the way to go and @undamned has the best solution with the InfiniKey. As the original game code is still intact and his pcb provides the decryption key without a battery at all.

In the end, it's your game and your choice.
 
I strongly recommend using an InfiniKey to desuicide the board so you don’t have a battery in there. You really, really don’t want those Capcom batteries to ever leak-believe me.

DB92CCCF-A529-430C-B365-D3172B3E6C6F.jpeg20EB1EED-11AB-48E6-9FB2-18CB3D8A7F47.jpeg
 
ShootTheCore said:
I strongly recommend using an InfiniKey to desuicide the board so you don’t have a battery in there. You really, really don’t want those Capcom batteries to ever leak-believe me.

DB92CCCF-A529-430C-B365-D3172B3E6C6F.jpeg20EB1EED-11AB-48E6-9FB2-18CB3D8A7F47.jpeg
Click to expand...
That’s nasty. I’m still thinking about it but, I really like to keep my stuff as original as possible. Especially when it’s something like one of the MegaMan games where with some of them, there aren’t many left that are original. I guess I’ll decide when I get the game but I’ll think about the Infinikey. I wouldn’t mind changing the battery every year. Are there special batteries or a specific brand that anyone would recommend I use if I decide to not use the Infinikey? I am very very new to arcades so I’m still learning a lot, luckily I have a good friend that has worked on them for quite a while so he give me a hand with learning repairs.
 
As a fellow collector, I do understand the desire to keep things original when possible, but that's going to be more and more difficult with these retro electronics now that they're getting to be over 20 years old. Not only are batteries corrosive and dangerous if they leak, the capacitors on the circuit boards have electrolytic fluid in them that can dry out or leak as well, causing the game to malfunction or fail. Several game consoles such as the NEC TurboDuo, TurboExpress, Sega Game Gear, Model 1 Sega CD and the pack modules for the Pioneer LaserActive are especially notorious for leaking capacitors that will damage the PCB if they aren't replaced. The same thing happens with many arcade boards as well.

Long story short - expect to do maintenance on batteries and capacitors or else "all original" electronics will end up non-functional eventually.

With that in mind, I still strongly encourage you to install the InfiniKey to make your game maintenance free. Removing any and all batteries when possible on arcade boards is a standard good practice. If you end up selling the game later on and want to reinstall the lithium battery beforehand, the InfiniKey is easily removed. That said, in terms of maintaining collecting value, I expect InfiniKey CPS2 boards will be more valuable than boards still on lithium battery - the batteries really do have that bad of a reputation. Google "CPS2 battery leak" and you'll find dozens if not hundreds of horror stories.

If you still decide to go the battery route, this is the one you'll want: https://www.bestbyte.net/xeno-xl-050fax-3-6v-lithium-battery-ls14250-1-2aa-axial-lead.html

Plan on replacing it every 4 years.
 
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