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Rusty Screw Removal - Need Help!

FluxChiller

FluxChiller

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"Yeah, I'm gonna break, I'm gonna break my
I'm gonna break my rusty cage and run..." -soundgarden

Holy smokes, these guys are IN THERE. This is on the bottom of a windy, the base is plastic, so i have to keep that in consideration with any "tough" work on these, don't want to crack it.

Thoughts from crew? a few are striped, I have applied some liquid wrench last night, maybe another coat to soak in today, not worried with keeping the bolts. But I have not been able to make one budge.

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hehe, as someone that has lived their whole life in the rust belt and works a lot on rusty cars. I wouldn't even consider this rusty :P

liquid wrench isn't great for this, I would recommend: https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/
spray it into the threads on both sides let it soak a few hours, spray again. They do also recommend tapping on the screw with a hammer as the vibrations will help the fluid work in. The only better penetrating oil is Kroil, which is popular with gunsmiths but very expensive. https://www.kroil.com/

Make sure using the right sized driver. these look like P3 sized screws, which is larger than most screw drivers will be, the right sized driver wont have any "wiggle room" it will fit perfectly in the slot.

I had a DDR machine where every philips screw on the platform was stuck in like this, used a big P3 sized driver and threw my whole body weight of pressure into the screw and used both hands to try to turn the screw. On that same machine for screws where the slot was damaged I would take a 4lb sledge and tap on the face of the screw to push the frayed metal back into the slot, then I would the driver into the slot and tap on the back of the driver with the hammer to help reform the slot, this banging also helped loosen the hold and work in the penetrating fluid.

Once you have it out buy some of this stuff: https://www.evapo-rust.com/ and literally dunk all of the parts in it for a few days, it will remove ALL of the rust, then you can paint and re-install ;)

If you're going to resort to screw removal pliers or channel locks you're going to damage the screws and you should expect to replace them after removal.
 
Last edited:
twistedsymphony said:
hehe, as someone that has lived their whole life in the rust belt and works a lot on rusty cars. I wouldn't even consider this rusty :P

liquid wrench isn't great for this, I would recommend: https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/
spray it into the threads on both sides let it soak a few hours, spray again. They do also recommend tapping on the screw with a hammer as the vibrations will help the fluid work in. The only better penetrating oil is Kroil, which is popular with gunsmiths but very expensive. https://www.kroil.com/

Make sure using the right sized driver. these look like P3 sized screws, which is larger than most screw drivers will be, the right sized driver wont have any "wiggle room" it will fit perfectly in the slot.

I had a DDR machine where every philips screw on the platform was stuck in like this, used a big P3 sized driver and threw my whole body weight of pressure into the screw and used both hands to try to turn the screw. On that same machine for screws where the slot was damaged I would take a 4lb sledge and tap on the face of the screw to push the frayed metal back into the slot, then I would the driver into the slot and tap on the back of the driver with the hammer to help reform the slot, this banging also helped loosen the hold and work in the penetrating fluid.

Once you have it out buy some of this stuff: https://www.evapo-rust.com/ and literally dunk all of the parts in it for a few days, it will remove ALL of the rust, then you can paint and re-install ;)

If you're going to resort to screw removal pliers or channel locks you're going to damage the screws and you should expect to replace them after removal.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!

I got the PB blaster and I like it better too, but the VOCs/Fumes are killer from that, Im doing this work inside since its cold, and the the liquid wrench is way more toleratable - but still not great. <X

Yeah working with an impact driver, slightly smaller than what i need bit size, but i think it will make due for now. I am resorting to vice grips and taps back and forth with a hammer for now.

I should buy stock in Evapo rust, its been a life saver, awesome stuff. When I restored the egret29 I went through a few jugs of it also Just saw adam savage did a video on it from tested.. cool!

Every single piece of metal on this windy is rusty, originally it was a Yaton special, and looks to ahve been stored either outside or somwhere really wet. Everything will need a soak and I think I will need to replace most every screw and bolt. :(
 
ImportantBet said:
angle grinder + big flathead works for me 90% of the time
Click to expand...
A few screws I have gotten the dremel out and cut a new channel for a flat head that has worked, I am working some vice grips and a hammer right now.. Im hoping for the best this afternoon with that.. a few taps, forward, few taps back, spray liquid wrench, repeat.. ill report back with progress later today.
 
Yes a LOT of patience, time, and vibration is your best friend when it comes to things like this. I usually use PB blast but have had some success in the past with Marvel mystery oil as well. Some people like the smell, Im not a fan, but not as bad as PB blaster since you said you are working indoors.
 
Great Success!

Vice grips and taps back and forth worked! No damage to the main parts or the cab, the screws are pretty shot though, the vice grips did a number on the heads.

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Next on the list is freeing this PCB holder, which is is signed by the artist "yaton" in spray paint during his experimental phase it seems.

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