What's new

djsheep

Multi Boyz Overlord
Immortal
Multi Boyz
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
7,385
Reaction score
13,050
Location
Brisbane, Australia
For reference, there’s two models of Seimitsu sticks. The “01” specifies they’re for the 5-pin harness.

Mounting screws from memory are M3?
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
For reference, there’s two models of Seimitsu sticks. The “01” specifies they’re for the 5-pin harness.

Mounting screws from memory are M3?
Can I use the 5 pin joysticks with my 8 pin harness?
 

djsheep

Multi Boyz Overlord
Immortal
Multi Boyz
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
7,385
Reaction score
13,050
Location
Brisbane, Australia
The screws are M4, for Astro Panels. Just checked my stash.

Here’s an article that might help from @emphatichttp://www.emphatic.se/?p=188

I assume you just daisy chain the ground to each direction of the stick and also connect each direction separately.
 

benime

Grand Master
Joined
Aug 8, 2015
Messages
454
Reaction score
671
Location
Portland, OR
Can I use the 5 pin joysticks with my 8 pin harness?
You could just convert it if you want, or wire up a new harness.

As far as the grounds, just use a cap connector and crimp them all together. Official harnesses from SEGA for Astro, Blast, and NNC come that way (button/stick grounds crimped into cap connector).
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
You could just convert it if you want, or wire up a new harness.

As far as the grounds, just use a cap connector and crimp them all together. Official harnesses from SEGA for Astro, Blast, and NNC come that way (button/stick grounds crimped into cap connector).
I got my JST connectors in and was ready to unify the grounds but then I noticed my 5 pin JST connector was too small.

I’m at the point where I wanna say $@&! it and just solder leads onto the male pins but I know not to trust that part of my brain in this hobby.

Does anyone where I can find a JST 5 pin female connector for my LS-32-01-SS joysticks.

The afternoon was not lost though.

We managed to pull out the wiring from the troublesome “dead one” and replaced every component with my “parts machine” internals.

I tested all four of my Aeros with glorious original Nanaos and recaps and got all 4 Running simultaneously. It almost brought a tear to my eye.

Left to do:
JST joysticks to original wiring harness.
Wheel sets x3
locks (dreading this one)
That’s it.. Onto the Domy Theater after these tasks

2-B7-BA732-B930-44-BA-95-A5-C6-BEF87-C3-AAA.jpg

88-DC58-F6-DBE7-42-DF-B14-F-2-B22-C3549054.jpg
 

Mitsurugi-w

Arcade Admini-Moderator
Staff member
Immortal
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
7,346
Reaction score
8,327
Location
New Bern, NC USA
Yeah I usually order directly from JST but they aren't taking new orders now because of their backlog. PM me and I'll send you one. Ive got a few here.
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
I got chance to tinker yesterday..

Thanks for the help guys, with the 8-pin fork to 5-pin JST harness.

After tying the 4 grounds into one. I messed with the directional till they were proper. I was going to use to use small wire nuts but felt like that was too lazy and messy. After being inspired by @opt2not's custom harnesses I sat down and soldered each connection with a heatshrink.

6-B20-A436-BC51-4715-8507-1-BB5-BC12-F9-C4.jpg

9-B640-A70-7128-4-AD7-A4-A8-4-BA3-D5-E39-E2-A.jpg


Now I have to replicate my work 5 more times until I populate the final three Aero's with new LS-32-SS's

Now I can play shitty bootleg Ms. Pac man all day long...

ECEE6409-1329-4-C79-A852-EBBE7-FEBF3-D3.jpg
 

Mitsurugi-w

Arcade Admini-Moderator
Staff member
Immortal
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
7,346
Reaction score
8,327
Location
New Bern, NC USA
Did I forget to send you the connectors?
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
Did I forget to send you the connectors?
No. I haven’t crimped those kits yet. @bartre hooked me up with 2 sets of leads and refused to let me pay for shipping for it. Big shout to the man actually.

I’ll be crimping those kits for the last 2 joysticks..
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
Its been over a year and a half since I posted. Time to fix that

After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.

I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.

This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".

I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..

Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:

functional but ugly. At some point in it's life a previous owner used body filler and welded a metal plate to cover the 1P/2P start buttons. Not sure if this can be undone. It is technically two separate pieces but due to the body filler and paint job they have been sealed as one piece. At the bare minimum I would recommend a sand blast and paint job or powder coating to make it look respectable again.

Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:

40-C4-CE71-AFBF-45-F4-BB19-E223-A998926-C.jpg


I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.

B2-CE157-E-5-B73-4769-8543-EEF44579837-A.jpg


The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!

805-B6759-8-E7-E-44-DB-87-DA-C0-AA4-F678119.jpg

5736796-B-99-E2-410-D-9614-B8-A3-F947-E962.jpg


Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.

After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..

0-AB86-DAF-4-FB6-46-FE-B556-20-B5-F4-EB706-F.jpg


Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..

164-B2-D90-FFA5-460-F-8-AD9-77-CA661-EE541.jpg


I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.

61-Cubbq-Tm-ML-SL1500.jpg


All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.

Off to my powder coater!

E75-E740-E-3-C9-A-4865-9-FD3-19-F818-F6-B389.jpg
 

hoagtech

Champion
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
1,561
Reaction score
2,109
Location
Bellingham WA
I decided to troubleshoot my Darksoft MVS as I had trouble on my Aero last time I used it. The volts were dialed in at 5.04 on the edge and I didn't have any issues with other PCB.

When I bought the MV1B. It came with terrible interference over audio and then the audio just quit at random and made weird chirpy noises instead of sounds and music.

I pulled the MV1B out of storage and noticed it had the UNIBIOS 3.3 I need to look into upgrading it and made a mental note.

BB21-DBE9-6-B46-4-BF0-B255-701-BDBC16885.jpg


I plugged it into my HAS as that gives the least issues compared to my cabs and powered it on to 5.04 V on my Megaview.

AC275472-A450-4535-A4-B1-5-BE482-FB190-C.jpg


It looked gorgeous but the Audio didn't come back even after fiddling with the audio pot on the MV1B.

E9-A4651-D-F7-DD-4120-BB31-A57-F94-C9-D4-A5.jpg


So I decided to take it out to my NAC, with is configured to MVS with its rather large NEO-MVH motherboard installed permanently with Puzzle Bobble 2. The game fired up and looked amazing as well on the Nanao MS9. Sounds checked out so I decided to fire up the Darksoft MVS.

C400-E3-F2-8-BD4-41-F6-9-F67-B99035-F1579-D.jpg

A2816-EA1-802-A-4-B36-BAA5-65-D1753-ADD05.jpg


It looked and SOUNDED perfect ruling out the Darksoft cart being the culprit and the Buzzy MV1B failing. I guess bigger is better as the NEO-MVH has never failed.

DE86047-B-128-D-4-F58-A374-14-DEAD0-A994-D.jpg

F9-AF8-F9-B-EADE-496-A-9988-5-F7-B080-DCA85.jpg


I plan on robbing the NEO-MVH from the NAC for the time being when the 5th Aero is finished but would love to hear your thoughts on the audio drop out on the MV1B and helpful insights about the UNIBIOS swap and upgrade.
 

Solmin

Professional
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
274
Reaction score
139
Location
Houston
Its been over a year and a half since I posted. Time to fix that

After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.

I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.

This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".

I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..

Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:



Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:

40-C4-CE71-AFBF-45-F4-BB19-E223-A998926-C.jpg


I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.

B2-CE157-E-5-B73-4769-8543-EEF44579837-A.jpg


The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!

805-B6759-8-E7-E-44-DB-87-DA-C0-AA4-F678119.jpg

5736796-B-99-E2-410-D-9614-B8-A3-F947-E962.jpg


Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.

After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..

0-AB86-DAF-4-FB6-46-FE-B556-20-B5-F4-EB706-F.jpg


Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..

164-B2-D90-FFA5-460-F-8-AD9-77-CA661-EE541.jpg


I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.

61-Cubbq-Tm-ML-SL1500.jpg


All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.

Off to my powder coater!

E75-E740-E-3-C9-A-4865-9-FD3-19-F818-F6-B389.jpg
I'm surprised you haven't invested in a media blaster cabinet. I wonder if that would have helped. I'm tired from just thinking of all that work. Of course I am recovering from rotator cuff surgery :) I am enjoying reading the progress. Nice work! I am looking forward to the rest of the journey.
 
Top