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I'm surprised you haven't invested in a media blaster cabinet. I wonder if that would have helped. I'm tired from just thinking of all that work. Of course I am recovering from rotator cuff surgery :) I am enjoying reading the progress. Nice work! I am looking forward to the rest of the journey.
I do have one actually. The bondo would come off too slowly to use one. It would pit the metal If I used my "blast cab"

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When I bought the MV1B. It came with terrible interference over audio and then the audio just quit at random and made weird chirpy noises instead of sounds and music.

My guess is it's cap related.
 
The Conical bit for the win! It ruined the bit but I was able to keep shaving the weld until the 24mm buttons cleared

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Once done I dropped it off at my Powder Coater and chose RAL 9016 like before

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The guys over at Mt Baker Powder Coating in Bellingham WA give me ridiculous rates as long as I prep beforehand by blasting or making an attempt to keep them powder coating and not cleaning.. (they hate sandblasting even though it's their job and I don't blame them)

Also coincidentally I won ANOTHER Aero City off of ebay for $795 with a Shmup in it. So I guess I will have another parts cab after I restore this lol

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Happy Thanksgiving everybody.

After dropping off the CP for powder coating, I figured I would drag home the 5th Aero cab and start prepping the pieces for powder coating before and after family visits during Thanksgiving

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I wanted to focus on part labeling so I created a work "diary" to reference for reassembly.

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You will need a 7mm, and 8mm socket for the lower cp.

I was surprised by this plate and wondered what its purpose was?

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I labeled my screw and part bags more accurately this time and even prepped for my headphone accessory repro I ordered

After many screws I managed to get the Lower CP disassembled and ready for the powder coater..

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I wanted to track my sticker placements so I timestamped my photo in my journal to reflect sticker placement.

Sticker Placement:

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Looking into the dusty cab I found a key, the original monitor model label, and thankfully a rusty stripped bucket door panel. Ill be sure to slap the label back on the tube ..

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I went to the hinged monitor cover assembly next and after using a giant socket wrench to remove a stuck bolt I felt I made some "some" progress in between thanksgiving socializing.

These pieces are off to the powder coaters!

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How many kilo or pounds this cabinet with or without the monitor and all internals

Thanks
 
How many kilo or pounds this cabinet with or without the monitor and all internals

Thanks
The Nanao MS8 with frame weighs 40kg and everything weighs 110kg.

So 70kg without the monitor.

I’ll see if the powder coater has a scale to measure the bare bucket when I’m done.

That would be a curious stat to find out
 
That was a good holiday. Me and my 3 brothers changed my Astro panel to my Blast and fired up some Street fighter 2 WW and beat the game.

If it were 100Y we would have spent roughly $28 beating the game. Next day we headed over to my bros apartment to watch the classic "Akira" in 4k.

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After they left I was able to squeeze in some more disassembly. I still had the Topper, Yen chute, Coin Mech, Footplates, wire harnesses, Power box, and PSU to remove.

I took careful notice and timestamped the wire harness locations and ground loops this time.


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I started to disassemble the topper and noticed someone painted the front of it without masking it off.

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There was a lot of missed paint including on the graphics plate.

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Soap went a long way and turned the transmissive film color from brown back to white with a wipe. It was a rewarding experience seeing the graphics come back to life. I had to scrub precisely and use my fingernails to remove the white paint from the graphics without scratching or fading it.

It turned out "almost new"
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But with a cotton cloth application of White Lithium Grease, I believe it looks factory and gleens to a point where you just wanna sip Cognac and stare at it for enjoyment.

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I finished the rest in the next hour and removed the coin counter, and footplates, and guts.

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It will be a fun day at the Powder coaters tomorrow..
 
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I had to go into the office today so I thought I would bring the wires and PSU with me to finish some touches I wanted this time around.

I planned on removing the PSU board and cleaning the wiring of its smoky cancer dust..

I was welcomed by a message from its previous owner BAD PS

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Thankfully I have tested this and the rails are great and even recapped the monitor a year ago so I don't have to go down this hellhole "Yet".

I decided to to touch up the cold rolled steel PSU cover and Power block.

I took careful diary notes of wires harnesses and sticker placements for later.

I want to recreate the PSU Sega label for the final unit so I took a pic of the original sticker JIC

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I then began to disassemble the PSU cover and wood block.

Before:

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After:

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(I may varnish and lacquer so I left it unpopulated for the time being)

Here are the new parts for the powder coater:

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The overspray of the white "rattlecan" was really frustrating as it took hours to clean the messy effort of the previous owner

Before:

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I did a hot soak with soap water and then air compressed the outlets to deter corrosion.

After:

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I decided to take on the rest of the wires and fittings did the same.

The connectors and wires looked so much better after the effort

Before:

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After:

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Now its the waiting game for the powder coat reveal and reassembly..
 

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The powder coaters are taking awhile.. They got a hotel balcony fencing contract so its been a few weeks with no powder coat.

Hopefully next week I can start reassembly.

In the mean time. I ordered x4 locksets from Yaton and they arrived. What a perfect time to inventory and clean some locks. .

I started by inventory and came up with x8 CP locks, and x12 Straight tangs along with x20 5380 locks.

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I started unthreading the locknuts and then the ring nuts.

The threads were beat up around the big part of the lock and the ring nuts were getting stuck on barbs and gunk, so I had to get a bigger wrench and pop some of them off.

I decided to soak them in ISO for 20 minutes and then steel brush the threads and apply Silicon grease to seal the dry steel, stop the pitting, and grease the threads.

A lot of the tangs looked *better, but no cleaning would take the pitting away. I may wire brush brush them later.. I just sealed them with a layer of grease and called it.

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I grabbed one of the nut free locks and the front popped out along with 4 pins and 3 springs! It scared me as I thought I would need a watchmakers skillset to repair this lock.

I calmed down and grabbed another lock and popped the face out intentionally, found every piece on the floor, and realized the pins are simply catches over springs and had it back together in no time..

I decided not to soak the locks and grabbed my steel brush instead and cleaned the fronts and threading for the nuts and ring nuts (especially).

After brushing I applied the grease and was pleasantly surprised.

The 5380 locks cleaned up!

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This will be a shiny treat for my cabs, and keep my Jamma door from falling on the floor.
 
I love this time of year.. And by that I mean any time of year something you powder coated is ready to be picked up..

He's busy AF and just got a Industrial compound Gate contract so Not everything was finished but most of the white. Ill be looking forward to the Jet black and silver pieces hopefully byt he end of the week.

But blah blah blah heres some fresh white. Take it in...


Before:

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After:


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That Control Panel housing especially warms my heart. Thanks again @andynumbers , and @Hakkyokuken for making this panel exist.

Now time to reassemble what I have to get ready for the final powder batch..
 

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Man that's sweet looking!

I've reached out to 4 powder coaters here locally but have not heard anything from them :(

I'm contemplating doing a full powder coat on both my aeros but I'm slightly intimidated by the cost and trying to source the foot panel mat here locally in Australia
 
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