- Thread starter hoagtech
- Start date
Can I use the 5 pin joysticks with my 8 pin harness?
The screws are M4, for Astro Panels. Just checked my stash.
Here’s an article that might help from @emphatic — http://www.emphatic.se/?p=188
I assume you just daisy chain the ground to each direction of the stick and also connect each direction separately.
Here’s an article that might help from @emphatic — http://www.emphatic.se/?p=188
I assume you just daisy chain the ground to each direction of the stick and also connect each direction separately.
You could just convert it if you want, or wire up a new harness.
As far as the grounds, just use a cap connector and crimp them all together. Official harnesses from SEGA for Astro, Blast, and NNC come that way (button/stick grounds crimped into cap connector).
I got my JST connectors in and was ready to unify the grounds but then I noticed my 5 pin JST connector was too small.
I’m at the point where I wanna say $@&! it and just solder leads onto the male pins but I know not to trust that part of my brain in this hobby.
Does anyone where I can find a JST 5 pin female connector for my LS-32-01-SS joysticks.
The afternoon was not lost though.
We managed to pull out the wiring from the troublesome “dead one” and replaced every component with my “parts machine” internals.
I tested all four of my Aeros with glorious original Nanaos and recaps and got all 4 Running simultaneously. It almost brought a tear to my eye.
Left to do:
JST joysticks to original wiring harness.
Wheel sets x3
locks (dreading this one)
That’s it.. Onto the Domy Theater after these tasks
Isn't it just an NH connector?
Idk. What’s an NH connector and what connector do you reccomend I buy?
You need one of these connectors-
https://focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/
You can buy the housing and pins and make it yourself, but JST and most other manufacturers are pretty backed up at the moment
https://focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/
You can buy the housing and pins and make it yourself, but JST and most other manufacturers are pretty backed up at the moment
Mrhide
Enlightened
I use those type of connector:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000184121807.html
2,50 pitch, they are prety generic but works.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000184121807.html
2,50 pitch, they are prety generic but works.
Mrhide
Enlightened
Yeah I usually order directly from JST but they aren't taking new orders now because of their backlog. PM me and I'll send you one. Ive got a few here.
Thanks for that. I ordered a couple to try them. they look a lot like the ones that were too small for me. Finger crossed..
I got chance to tinker yesterday..
Thanks for the help guys, with the 8-pin fork to 5-pin JST harness.
After tying the 4 grounds into one. I messed with the directional till they were proper. I was going to use to use small wire nuts but felt like that was too lazy and messy. After being inspired by @opt2not's custom harnesses I sat down and soldered each connection with a heatshrink.
Now I have to replicate my work 5 more times until I populate the final three Aero's with new LS-32-SS's
Now I can play shitty bootleg Ms. Pac man all day long...
Thanks for the help guys, with the 8-pin fork to 5-pin JST harness.
After tying the 4 grounds into one. I messed with the directional till they were proper. I was going to use to use small wire nuts but felt like that was too lazy and messy. After being inspired by @opt2not's custom harnesses I sat down and soldered each connection with a heatshrink.
Now I have to replicate my work 5 more times until I populate the final three Aero's with new LS-32-SS's
Now I can play shitty bootleg Ms. Pac man all day long...
Did I forget to send you the connectors?
No. I haven’t crimped those kits yet. @bartre hooked me up with 2 sets of leads and refused to let me pay for shipping for it. Big shout to the man actually.
I’ll be crimping those kits for the last 2 joysticks..
Its been over a year and a half since I posted. Time to fix that
After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.
I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.
This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".
I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..
Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:
Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:
I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.
The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!
Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.
After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..
Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..
I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.
All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.
Off to my powder coater!
After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.
I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.
This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".
I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..
Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:
Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:
I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.
The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!
Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.
After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..
Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..
I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.
All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.
Off to my powder coater!
Welcome back.
I decided to troubleshoot my Darksoft MVS as I had trouble on my Aero last time I used it. The volts were dialed in at 5.04 on the edge and I didn't have any issues with other PCB.
When I bought the MV1B. It came with terrible interference over audio and then the audio just quit at random and made weird chirpy noises instead of sounds and music.
I pulled the MV1B out of storage and noticed it had the UNIBIOS 3.3 I need to look into upgrading it and made a mental note.
I plugged it into my HAS as that gives the least issues compared to my cabs and powered it on to 5.04 V on my Megaview.
It looked gorgeous but the Audio didn't come back even after fiddling with the audio pot on the MV1B.
So I decided to take it out to my NAC, with is configured to MVS with its rather large NEO-MVH motherboard installed permanently with Puzzle Bobble 2. The game fired up and looked amazing as well on the Nanao MS9. Sounds checked out so I decided to fire up the Darksoft MVS.
It looked and SOUNDED perfect ruling out the Darksoft cart being the culprit and the Buzzy MV1B failing. I guess bigger is better as the NEO-MVH has never failed.
I plan on robbing the NEO-MVH from the NAC for the time being when the 5th Aero is finished but would love to hear your thoughts on the audio drop out on the MV1B and helpful insights about the UNIBIOS swap and upgrade.
When I bought the MV1B. It came with terrible interference over audio and then the audio just quit at random and made weird chirpy noises instead of sounds and music.
I pulled the MV1B out of storage and noticed it had the UNIBIOS 3.3 I need to look into upgrading it and made a mental note.
I plugged it into my HAS as that gives the least issues compared to my cabs and powered it on to 5.04 V on my Megaview.
It looked gorgeous but the Audio didn't come back even after fiddling with the audio pot on the MV1B.
So I decided to take it out to my NAC, with is configured to MVS with its rather large NEO-MVH motherboard installed permanently with Puzzle Bobble 2. The game fired up and looked amazing as well on the Nanao MS9. Sounds checked out so I decided to fire up the Darksoft MVS.
It looked and SOUNDED perfect ruling out the Darksoft cart being the culprit and the Buzzy MV1B failing. I guess bigger is better as the NEO-MVH has never failed.
I plan on robbing the NEO-MVH from the NAC for the time being when the 5th Aero is finished but would love to hear your thoughts on the audio drop out on the MV1B and helpful insights about the UNIBIOS swap and upgrade.
I'm surprised you haven't invested in a media blaster cabinet. I wonder if that would have helped. I'm tired from just thinking of all that work. Of course I am recovering from rotator cuff surgeryIts been over a year and a half since I posted. Time to fix that
After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.
I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.
This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".
I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..
Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:
Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:
I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.
The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!
Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.
After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..
Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..
I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.
All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.
Off to my powder coater!
I am enjoying reading the progress. Nice work! I am looking forward to the rest of the journey.