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ArcadeMachinist

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So one of SEGA Lindbergh monitors, I have in the arcade, recently died.
Problem was in the backlight driver, that would go off 10-20 seconds after beeing powered on.
This seemed beoynd reasonable repair effort (and origianl monitor is crap anyway with heavily worn screen).

So I have took the cabinet home for renovations.
I have just scrolled thru the subforum and realized Hadouken Arcade used exactly same monitor (LG 32MP58HQ) for his Taito Vewlix upgrade.
I swear, I did not read that before. Monitor was chosen after scrolling thru hundreds of alike, available locally (and for a reasonable price).

The best thing about it - you dont have to drill/cut/bend anything. You even don't need any tools besides your screewdriver.
It fits just perfectly into existing frame. No extra parts required, only angle-changing adapters for the ports.

If you don't want access to OSD menu - you can just drag&drop the monitor. If you want OSD joystick into your cab's service area - you would have to extend the cable.
Joystick PCB itself is easy to remove.

Here are some pics. Feel free to ask questions, if any.
 

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Last edited:

nem

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Good info. The Lindbergh Universal is from 2007, so the original monitor is well outdated. It's a nice cab apart from the screen.
 

markedkiller78

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Great job and very useful post. I’ve got a Lindy on the way and even if the monitors are ok, I can see me doing this right away.

Can I ask, How did you extend the remote? Is there enough ribbon cable, or whatever it is, internally to snip and add the desired length in between to extend?
 

ArcadeMachinist

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Yep, the original remote cable was cut and extended.
First I was going to make "extender cable" with matching plugs, but non of local radio shops had these connectors.

Trust me, your original monitor would not be ok. Sometimes still playable, but mostly they come with defects.
Screen matrix is old one and it is powered by flouriscent backlight! There is a tube inside, not leds :)
 

Hadouken Arcade

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nice, bet it reduced the power consumption significantly lol I do want to owe a lindbergh sometime.
 

ArcadeMachinist

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nice, bet it reduced the power consumption significantly lol I do want to owe a lindbergh sometime.
220 watts -> 35 watts
Those old displays are hungry bastards.

Probably I would replace in all other cabs.
Need to measure NamcoHD's power consumption too.
Full cab eats whopping 440w, I can't imagine where it puts that at.
 

ArcadeMachinist

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More improvements.

Capacitive touch screen foil with USB HID (think Pazudora & Theatrhythm).
At the end had to remove metal glass holders and add rubber (window insulation basically) tape, otherwise it affects sensitivity.

LED marque light.
That's 12v LED stripe, white when power apllied, but controllable with Arduino (or any other MC), NeoPixel compatible.
 

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markedkiller78

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I took your advice. I’ve bought the monitors ;) now I need some time :D

Have you used drop in replacement led strips or is there some modification needed?

I really appreciate you sharing the info here. It’s saved me a lot of time.
 

sugar4salt

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Do you have disassemble the entire monitor to take jog stick pcb out??
 

ArcadeMachinist

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Have you used drop in replacement led strips or is there some modification needed?
I took a square shaped hollow aluminium tube and placed 2 LED strips on 2 sides (up and front), then 3D printed 2 mounts, so tube can be mounted using original screwholes on the bottom of the lamp compartment. I can share 3d model in OpenSCAD.

You can use a drop-in LED tube, that works just instead of normal lamp, but it is hard to find 100v version in Europe.
Also my strips are controllable.


Do you have disassemble the entire monitor to take jog stick pcb out??
Just the bottom. The are few screws behind stand mount, and then - just latches on all the edges.
Joystick part is not screwed, it can be slided from it's mounting place with the square plastic panel around it.
 

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nem

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You can use a drop-in LED tube, that works just instead of normal lamp, but it is hard to find 100v version in Europe.
I looked in to this, and it just happens that the working voltage of a 240V fluorescent light ballast is around 100V. LED tubes can be used with or without the ballast.

So, I removed the ballast altogether, wired up AC straight to the connectors and bought two different brands of "240V" LED tubes. One flickered, one worked great. Bought more of the one that worked great.

https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=34479
 

tronbaby

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Hi all, I’m about to do the same thing to my Lindbergh. I’ve got a question about game resolution - what will an original Lindbergh or RingEdge game look like on a 1080p monitor? Does it scale up ok or cause any problem with performance?
 
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ArcadeMachinist

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Untill you are very good in electronics it would not work.
Monitor has custom made pcb with a digital joystick (aka 5 way buttons - 4 sides and center-press)
Joystick in your picture is analog.

Your best choice is just to move original joypad PCB (it is very small and stand alone) from monitor to whatever place in the cabinet you want.
 
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