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Kavas

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Restoration is a strong word for this as it's mostly complete and working. If you followed any of my other restoration threads you know I like to have my shit not just play nice but also look nice. Pristine. Glorious. I've been musing over what needs to be done to bring it up to snuff with the rest of my arcade armada.

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As you can see, it works. When I plugged it in, I didn't realize all the power switches were set to on. Boy did I jump! This shit makes a loud pop when starting up! I thought the cabinet jumped because that's what it sounded like. The fans are super loud! 2P side screen was pink and colors were all off. I recognized right away it needed a degauss. 1P side has a red tinge to it. Pressing demag on the power supply fixed 2P side but 1P remains kinda red. Maybe a calibration is in order. I will pull the screens eventually and recap them as I do all my monitors. What's interesting is a lot of the wiki's out there label this cabinet as having a 15/24 khz monitor, but it says right on the side it's a tri ? Doesn't it auto switch? I haven't looking at what monitor is inside this beast yet because that's a teardown but if anyone knows for sure lemme know. There is only one monitor remote adjust board I've found. Is there supposed to be two?

The 2P left side speaker seems dim, rest seem fine. Need to check on it.


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Seriously very roomy inside. The cabinet came with no locks because of course not. The power supply looks like a beast! I am very scared every time I flick the power button on as it is very loud. All the lights/billboard/7 segment/screens/sound all come on at once so it is pretty heavy duty to start all that. All lights and 7 segment do work. The wires were intimidating at first but after messing with the cabling I figured out how to change them out. I wish they were labeled. If anyone knows for sure the connectors and what they do lemme know, I wanna use my label maker to mark them. As for the key, this cabinet came with a box pictured above that had a bunch of extra harnesses, bulbs, stickers, and manuals! In the manual I was able to verify this cabinet uses the 5575 key. There is one for the bigass swing door, 2 underneath the control panel, then 1 for the coin box.

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There are 3 wire harnesses included. Two seem to be for the lindbergh molex style connectors? Then one for the Naomi which is what I currently have in there now after briefly testing with my STV mobo. I was considering retrobrighting the cabinet with a lot of chemicals in a makeshift pool in my backyard, but after taking my Naomi out of my closet which was previously stored after being retrobrighted, I can confirm that the whiteness doesn't last and it is starting to yellow again :( I cannot find repro stickers for the sides so I am at a loss what to do. I am wondering if a body shop can paint the plastic while not touching the stickers? There are no cracks in the body, but there is one gouge that I am going to have to bondo at some point. Which means some kind of paint job will be needed anyways on the yellow plastic. The grey is also dirty/yellowed. Not even sure what color to go for. Appliance white and "Grey" ? If you look at the middle connector between the two cabinets, you can see that it's clean grey so I imagine that's the color it's supposed to be. The orange lights are also hazy, kind of like an old cars headlights.

So here's on the docket so far, recommendations welcome.

  • Get rid of yellow/paint cab/bondo gouge
  • Recap monitors/find out why the 1P side is red tinted
  • Check 2P left side speaker and why it seems dim
  • Do monitors auto adjust or do I do that manually? Manual shows some dip switches?
  • Cabinet/PSU fans are LOUD! replace?
  • Get locks. Would prefer to not have to source official 5575 keysets, any suggestions?
  • Label the wire socket wall. What are the blue unused sockets for? Where do kick harness go when I get new panels?
  • Get alberto to make me some dope panels. 3 buttons aint cutting it.
  • 1P side marquee light not working?
  • Are those two long grey cords inside the cabinet for the card reader or are they for the 7segment/orange lights?
 

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Kavas

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Gouge mentioned above.
Naomi setup and running!
Versus book was included.
Only one remote board?
 

BlinG

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If I remember correctly, kicks route from these connectors to the top of the control panel.
 

Kavas

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If I remember correctly, kicks route from these connectors to the top of the control panel.
Thanks! The blue connectors are not used. The two very bottom connectors (I think the ones you highlighted) are indeed not used, it's just a dangling connector. I'll check this out.
 

Kavas

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Is it possible to run only one side at a time? I know the psu expects a load and is likely set to run two monitors, lights, etc. but would be pretty cool if I could treat this cabinet like a single player Blast City when I am the only one using it, then flip a switch or something to enable 2P side. =O
 

twistedsymphony

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I know the psu expects a load and is likely set to run two monitors, lights, etc.
PSU doesn't run monitors or florescent lights.
In Most cabs the PSU is ONLY for the Game PCB.

Monitors run directly on AC
Florescent Lights run directly on AC
Usually the Audio Amp has it's own Power supply

granted these are all routed through the same metal box, but the actual Power supply board inside that box is only for the Game PCB.

I believe the Vs Billboard display uses 5V from the PSU just for processing but has it's own power supply for the actual numerical display. the lamps all run directly on AC.

I think in most Sega Cabs the JVS IO is powered by the PSU but in other cabs like the Vewlix, even that has it's own separate power supply.

I don't see any reason you couldn't simply unplug the power connector on the monitor you don't want to run.
 

Anselmo

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Man, I really want one of these. Did this come from KC? I just missed on the last couple he had.
 

garou81

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1P side has a red tinge to it. Pressing demag on the power supply fixed 2P side but 1P remains kinda red. Maybe a calibration is in order. I will pull the screens eventually and recap them as I do all my monitors. What's interesting is a lot of the wiki's out there label this cabinet as having a 15/24 khz monitor, but it says right on the side it's a tri ? Doesn't it auto switch? I haven't looking at what monitor is inside this beast yet because that's a teardown but if anyone knows for sure lemme know. There is only one monitor remote adjust board I've found. Is there supposed to be two?

So here's on the docket so far, recommendations welcome.


  • Recap monitors/find out why the 1P side is red tinted
  • Do monitors auto adjust or do I do that manually? Manual shows some dip switches?
  • Get locks. Would prefer to not have to source official 5575 keysets, any suggestions?
From the looks of the control board that's an ms2930 manual tri sync chassis you got in there at least on one side. I think maybe the sega versus city cabs came with 15/24k res monitors and NEW versus city's came with tri syncs. I have the same problem with one of my monitors adjusting the gain fixed the tint but the picture was very dim after that. R gain is on the remote board and r Cutoff is on the side of the chassis. I'm wondering if its a chassis that needs a cap kit or a weak tube.


How many locks do you need?
 

Kavas

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Doh! Your right, was so surprised by the sound of it powering on that I figured the psu was in charge of more. I will trace back the cables and see if there is a convenient solution to running one side at a time. I'm sure the power savings would be worth it alone.

Man, I really want one of these. Did this come from KC? I just missed on the last couple he had.
Yes. $1500 for the cabinet then originally 600? Shipping but later asked for another $100 after showing me pictures of price increase in shipping. He still lost out on $50 and ate the cost. It's a big cabinet and everything is increasing in price so I wasn't overly pissed just annoyed. Would love another if I had space so I can run 4 player voot.

From the looks of the control board that's an ms2930 manual tri sync chassis you got in there at least on one side. I think maybe the sega versus city cabs came with 15/24k res monitors and NEW versus city's came with tri syncs. I have the same problem with one of my monitors adjusting the gain fixed the tint but the picture was very dim after that. R gain is on the remote board and r Cutoff is on the side of the chassis. I'm wondering if its a chassis that needs a cap kit or a weak tube.


How many locks do you need?
Yeah most of the wikis probably are confusing the versus and new versus. The manual shows a picture of some dip switches somewhere with 15/24/31 khz options. Was hoping it was auto switching.

I'll check that r gain thanks!

Ideally I would like the cp and swing door to have locks at the least so 6 total but the manual shows one is needed for coin box so it takes 8 altogether ... Another thread people were discussing those keyless turn style locks but never came to a consensus on size. If you magically had spare 5575 locks lemme know.
 

twistedsymphony

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nem

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Would be cool if you could get those 'For Exciting Battle' stickers scanned. I'm missing them on all of my Versus cabs.

Nice cab! The PSU is indeed a beast.

If you ever want to mess with games that support an optional, unique second screen, the Versus is super convenient for all of those. The second player side connections are right next to the PCB tray (monitor, speakers and controls). There's four controller ports on this thing, two per side. Plus individual kick harness connectors. You can run 4P games really easily on just one cab with minimal wiring.

What are the blue unused sockets for? Where do kick harness go when I get new panels?

Blue 12-pin connector is 2P-side second player connector. Red 10-pin connector is 2P-side kick harness connector. So if you want to route kicks through the kick harness connectors, you'll have to wire them up to two separate connectors (white for 1P, red for 2P).

Blue 10-pin connector goes to the topper IIRC.
 
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twistedsymphony

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any 2 player link game is good too. Sega shipped VOOT in these cabs with 2x Model 3 boards. (FWIW they did also ship an extra PSU unit to run the second board. )

There are quite a few NAOMI and Model 3 games that would work with a link setup like that. (Sonic the Fighters, VOOT, Outtrigger, Spike Out, SPAWN)

Some other interesting ones would be games that support 4 players
Sega Tetris supports 4-players over a 2-NAOMI link setup, Heavy Metal GeoMatrix can also be run this way I believe

Then of course there are countless 4 player games that could be setup with 2 to a side.

If you like SHMUPs setting up Twinkle Star Sprites or Change Air Blade would make for some fun VS Shmup action.
 

Kavas

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twistedsymphony

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As for the keys, it was recommended that these might work.
what kind of bullshit lock is that?

if you're not going to buy an original lock set then you might as well just buy something cheap off of amazon.
 

twistedsymphony

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Why are 5575s the last resort? I believe that's the correct lock for a New Versus.

The problem is Sega cabs use a non-standard shaft so anything that isn't exact is going to have problems, particularly with the control panel lock.

I've bought cabs that had the control panel mechanism messed up and jammed shut because someone installed an non-original lock. it's not a fun thing to deal with. So if you're going to buy cheap locks that jam your release mechanism you might as well go super cheap lol

Spending a bunch of money on expensive locks sucks but given the cost of the rest of the cab I think it's worth it to ensure everything works properly.

The cheapest way to get original Sega locks is to watch YAJ and you can often buy a lot of them for a reasonable price. I've bought a few sets of 5380s and 5575s for around $60 a set. and one time I found a lot of a few dozen locks, bought it and sold off the locks I didn't need and turned a profit on top of getting the locks I needed for my cab. There are no 5575s on auction right now but there is a cheap set of 5380s: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g508058848

the cheapest method if you want to be super cheap though is pull the 5380s from your Aero's doors, install that in your Versus City control panels, and then outfit the doors on all of the cabs with some cheaper generic locks. you'll want to use cheap generic tangs as well. but at least you wont be damaging the control panel release mechanism on any of the cabs.
 
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Kavas

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Your right. Absolutely right. Figured there would have been a good cheap alternative solution by now for livid but all the threads I'm reading don't sound promising on the matter. I'll keep an eye out for the 5575 locks.
 
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