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Yubm12

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Ah ok the very bottom usually, last step in the line? I’m not sure how the mech on the 26 works, the universal slug acceptor I linked to works great but if the part you are taking about isn’t wide enough, not sure what to do. The Sega tokens I mentioned are pretty much exactly an inch.
Where do I get the Sega repro tokens from?
 

Yubm12

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Ok - so is there anything I need to know about changing the power cable out? It only has a 2 prong currently and I’d like to ground it. Do I just buy a replacement cable? How do I connect it?
 
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Yubm12

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Wow, that has to be long out of production. I would chop and replace with something like AMP UP or the above mentioned Mate-N-Lok/MLX or Mini Mate-N-Lok.
Am I able to remove the wires from this old connector and just insert them into a new one, or do i need to cut them off and recrimp them?
 

dos

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Am I able to remove the wires from this old connector and just insert them into a new one, or do i need to cut them off and recrimp them?
Looking at the JST L contacts, it seems like they are very similar if not exactly the same as to Molex MLX / TE Universal Mate-N-Lok (not Mini Mate-N-Lok). This is what the Aero City uses for its connectors and the full line is still in production. These type of contacts are a royal pain in the ass to remove without the correct extraction tool, which you can get here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/0011010168/WM9921-ND/63617

You can then try putting them in the applicable MLX / Universal Mate-N-Lok housings.

Mate-N-Lok housings: https://www.digikey.com/en/products...oLRY8hEpHIUAHAHYADDOYh2ncVNqz5fAK7Kd5AKxMxnoA

No need to bother with MLX I think, as there are a bunch of different series to it and it can get confusing. Everything you need can be found in Universal Mate-N-Lok. Just use the Digikey serach to match the number of positions and whether it is plug or receptacle.
 
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Aurich

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I would recrimp them. This cabinet is old, those connectors are old, save yourself the headache of flakey issues later and just do it up clean instead of trying extract and reuse them.
 

dos

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I would recrimp them. This cabinet is old, those connectors are old, save yourself the headache of flakey issues later and just do it up clean instead of trying extract and reuse them.
True, but depending on how it's done, the recrimps may be flakier. These MLX style contacts are very easy to reuse due to the "wings" on the side, you just spread em out a bit and they're good to go. I would say if you're confident you can do it right, cut everything and replace with something like AMP Universal Power. I've just seen so many terrible "home made" crimp jobs inside panels.
 

Yubm12

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True, but depending on how it's done, the recrimps may be flakier. These MLX style contacts are very easy to reuse due to the "wings" on the side, you just spread em out a bit and they're good to go. I would say if you're confident you can do it right, cut everything and replace with something like AMP Universal Power. I've just seen so many terrible "home made" crimp jobs inside panels.
I guess the real question is should I just get a crimper tool because it will be more useful than an extractor in the long run? Or is there someone that can make harness for me that I can just solder onto the cut lines?

In all honesty, this is probably the only cab I’m going to fix up, so I don’t really need to acquire a bunch of specialized tools if I don’t have to.
 

dos

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I guess the real question is should I just get a crimper tool because it will be more useful than an extractor in the long run? Or is there someone that can make harness for me that I can just solder onto the cut lines?

In all honesty, this is probably the only cab I’m going to fix up, so I don’t really need to acquire a bunch of specialized tools if I don’t have to.
It is always best to get the specialized tool for the contact, because it makes perfect crimps literally effortless. Problem is, the tool is usually expensive, $50 plus on the used market and it will only crimp just one or a small handful of contact types correctly. Let me know if you decide to go the official tool route and for what contact, and I will try to find one for you. If not, this is a good "universal" tool for most arcade contacts (do not use for HRS CPS2 kick connectors) SN-2549: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-AWG28-18-Ratcheting-Connector/dp/B01N4L8QMW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DN6V834ETC72&keywords=iwiss+sn-2549&qid=1645928371&sprefix=iwiss+sn-2549,aps,76&sr=8-1

Here's a pretty good guide to making good crimps https://www.ttieurope.com/content/d.../1473-TE-Connectivity-Good-Crimping-v3Web.pdf

Another: https://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/65784_Crimp Quality Poster_ENGLISH_26x13 version.pdf

EDIT: It is a big time saver to know the strip length for your contact (found in datasheet) and use a stripper that will strip to that length repeatedly. This is a cheap knockoff of a much more expensive tool that will do this: https://www.amazon.com/Stripper-Stripping-Automatic-Electronic-Automotive/dp/B08T63TLBQ/ref=sr_1_11?crid=33CDO4RRN83R&keywords=wire+stripper+automatic&qid=1645928796&sprefix=wire+stripper+automatic,aps,96&sr=8-11

The real deal is expensive but worth it: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/734185-1/5266741
 
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Yubm12

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It is always best to get the specialized tool for the contact, because it makes perfect crimps literally effortless. Problem is, the tool is usually expensive, $50 plus on the used market and it will only crimp just one or a small handful of contact types correctly. Let me know if you decide to go the official tool route and for what contact, and I will try to find one for you. If not, this is a good "universal" tool for most arcade contacts (do not use for HRS CPS2 kick connectors) SN-2549: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-AWG28-18-Ratcheting-Connector/dp/B01N4L8QMW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DN6V834ETC72&keywords=iwiss+sn-2549&qid=1645928371&sprefix=iwiss+sn-2549,aps,76&sr=8-1

Here's a pretty good guide to making good crimps https://www.ttieurope.com/content/d.../1473-TE-Connectivity-Good-Crimping-v3Web.pdf

Another: https://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/65784_Crimp Quality Poster_ENGLISH_26x13 version.pdf

EDIT: It is a big time saver to know the strip length for your contact (found in datasheet) and use a stripper that will strip to that length repeatedly. This is a cheap knockoff of a much more expensive tool that will do this: https://www.amazon.com/Stripper-Stripping-Automatic-Electronic-Automotive/dp/B08T63TLBQ/ref=sr_1_11?crid=33CDO4RRN83R&keywords=wire+stripper+automatic&qid=1645928796&sprefix=wire+stripper+automatic,aps,96&sr=8-11

The real deal is expensive but worth it: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/734185-1/5266741

Do you recommend AMP or something else? I’ll go the legit route if that’s the best way. I don’t want to cut corners on this cab.

Also I don’t need to make a kick harness anymore. So that can be removed from the equation.
 

Dzhay

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At risk of highjacking OP's thread, has anyone got a lead on replacement cam locks for these cabs? I'm obviously concerned about the control panel and marquee ones which would require something of very similar dimensions by the looks.
 

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At risk of highjacking OP's thread, has anyone got a lead on replacement cam locks for these cabs? I'm obviously concerned about the control panel and marquee ones which would require something of very similar dimensions by the looks.
Need some replacement locks too, so no worries! Do you have a Candy 26 also?
 

dos

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Do you recommend AMP or something else? I’ll go the legit route if that’s the best way. I don’t want to cut corners on this cab
AMP stands for "Aircraft and Marine Products", an old company that was bought by Tyco and later became TE Connectivity, who kept marking a bunch of different things with the AMP logo. It isn't one type of connector. If you are going to recrimp, probably a good idea to use AMP Universal Power (AMP-UP). Used in lots of Sega cabs from the Astro City on. If you use the Astro City pinout you can interface lots of premade control harnesses. The official crimpers are hard to find and very expensive though (hundreds of dollars). It is easy to crimp with the Iwiss tool I linked above, just buy a lot of contacts and practice on scrap wire. The wire should not come out even if you pull hard, but the insulation shouldn't be deformed.

Here's my info I've collected on the connector from my data txt file:

Code:
TE AMP Universal Power Female Pin/Male Housing
----------------------------------------------
Part Number (22-26 Tin): 175151 (reel), 175155 (bulk)
Part Number (16-20 Tin): 175152 (reel), 175156 (bulk)
Housing Series: 17627[]-[color]
Header Series: N/A
AWG: 22-26, 16-20
Strip Length: 3.2 +/- 0.5mm
Crimp Height (22-26): 0.79-0.87mm
Crimp Height (20-1: 1.08-1.18mm
Crimp Height (16): 1.38-1.48mm

TE AMP Universal Power Male Pin/Female Housing
----------------------------------------------
Part Number (22-26 Tin): 175149 (reel), 175153 (bulk)
Part Number (16-20 Tin): 175150 (reel), 175154 (bulk)
Housing Series: 17628[]-[color], 17629[]-[color] (panel mount) 
Header Series: N/A
AWG: 22-26, 16-20
Strip Length: 3.2 +/- 0.5mm
Crimp Height (22-26): 0.79-0.87mm 
Crimp Height (20-18): 1.08-1.18mm
Crimp Height (16): 1.38-1.48mm

Use the 22-26AWG contacts. Here's the housings: https://www.digikey.com/en/products...ZQDaIcAbAEwAcIAugL6EzWIgqQAuATgK4FiZEAFZGTSUA

UP is kinda weird that the plugs use female contacts and receptacles use male. So the cabinet side connectors have male pins and the one coming from the controls have female.
 
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Yubm12

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AMP stands for "Aircraft and Marine Products", an old company that was bought by Tyco and later became TE Connectivity, who kept marking a bunch of different things with the AMP logo. It isn't one type of connector. If you are going to recrimp, probably a good idea to use AMP Universal Power (AMP-UP). Used in lots of Sega cabs from the Astro City on. If you use the Astro City pinout you can interface lots of premade control harnesses. The official crimpers are hard to find and very expensive though (hundreds of dollars). It is easy to crimp with the Iwiss tool I linked above, just buy a lot of contacts and practice on scrap wire. The wire should not come out even if you pull hard, but the insulation shouldn't be deformed.

Here's my info I've collected on the connector from my data txt file:

Code:
TE AMP Universal Power Female Pin/Male Housing
----------------------------------------------
Part Number (22-26 Tin): 175151 (reel), 175155 (bulk)
Part Number (16-20 Tin): 175152 (reel), 175156 (bulk)
Housing Series: 17627[]-[color]
Header Series: N/A
AWG: 22-26, 16-20
Strip Length: 3.2 +/- 0.5mm
Crimp Height (22-26): 0.79-0.87mm
Crimp Height (20-1: 1.08-1.18mm
Crimp Height (16): 1.38-1.48mm

Use the 22-26AWG contacts. Here's the housings: https://www.digikey.com/en/products...ZQDaIcAbAEwAcIAugL6EzWIgqQAuATgK4FiZEAFZGTSUA

UP is kinda weird that the plugs use female contacts and receptacles use male. So the cabinet side connectors have male pins and the one coming from the controls have female.
So I have this spare harness for a Naomi Universal. What kind of connector does this use? I should be able to replace the old connectors with this one and use this harness + the CPS2 kick harness I have for all the controls, right?
 

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Dzhay

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Need some replacement locks too, so no worries! Do you have a Candy 26 also?
Yeah, mine just arrived about three days ago. I got an off the rack cam lock from a hardware store and it's fine for the monitor door, pcb door and coin door/drawer, but I don't think they'll work for the cp/marquee which are typically over-engineered.
 

dos

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So I have this spare harness for a Naomi Universal. What kind of connector does this use? I should be able to replace the old connectors with this one and use this harness + the CPS2 kick harness I have for all the controls, right?
Yep, that's Universal Power. On your cabinet you need these for the main controls: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176299-1/2328051

And these for the kick harness: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176288-1/5124015

And these contacts: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/175153-1/1149439

Pinouts for the receptacles you're building:


o076ACN.jpg


Pinout of the plugs connecting to them (that you have premade, but make sure it matches just in case):

NEmuqPL.jpg
 

Yubm12

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Yep, that's Universal Power. On your cabinet you need these for the main controls: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176299-1/2328051

And these for the kick harness: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176288-1/5124015

And these contacts: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/175153-1/1149439

Pinouts for the receptacles you're building:


o076ACN.jpg


Pinout of the plugs connecting to them (that you have premade, but make sure it matches just in case):

NEmuqPL.jpg
Thanks for all the help. I ordered the parts and the tools!
 

GeekMan1222

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Glad to see you got this taken care of. I figured as much that the connector housing was long out of production for the originals.
Their old cabinets but their very well made.
 

Yubm12

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Yeah, mine just arrived about three days ago. I got an off the rack cam lock from a hardware store and it's fine for the monitor door, pcb door and coin door/drawer, but I don't think they'll work for the cp/marquee which are typically over-engineered.
Does your machine accept quarters?
 
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